Getting my crx lower its already on coilovers
I have a 89 crx si, It haas KYB GR-2 struts and GODSPEED coilovers with sportmax 501's +15 offset with nexen 195/45/15's with the coils completely droped it sit right at the top of the tire in the front, and 1/4-1/2in above the tire in the rear just wondering if anybody has experienced this and how i could get it lower i no that lower meanes a camber kit to get the tires to tuck but i want it "slammed" for meets and shows. I have tryed reactive coilovers to but no difference. Is it something about the crx suspension or should i try some different shocks or what? I have removed the bumpstops, made sure the front struts is as far down in the nuckle as possible. Thanks in advance
airbags
somethign with the crx suspension they just dont go real low on springs for whatever reason. I had kyg agx shocks and neuspeed race springs and still had wheel wel but the car was slammed from stock. stock they look like a pickup truck LOL
somethign with the crx suspension they just dont go real low on springs for whatever reason. I had kyg agx shocks and neuspeed race springs and still had wheel wel but the car was slammed from stock. stock they look like a pickup truck LOL
move the fork up higher on the front shock. one it gets you better shock travel. 2 it allows you to go about a inch lower.
flip the perches on the rears to go lower.
flip the perches on the rears to go lower.
1) dropping the shock lower in the fork... your talking about spreading the opening on the fork to slide more than the preset amount of the shock down it? Wouldnt that screw up trying to rebolt it in and not shim/move around? (same effect as use EG front forks?)
2) for flipping the perch (cup) on the rear shocks, arent they welded to the body?
Op ive had the same problem on my 89 Hatch for 2 years. I only run one adjuster on my coils (and every setup I install unless full bodies) and have AGX shocks with the 8inch DZ coils. Ive got them maxed out everywhere (being level with adjustment front and rear) and ive still got that dreaded gap in the rear (i even resulted in taking one of the adjusters out and just set the spring on the shock). The EFs are cursed with shorter suspension, because this setup use to SLAM my old 95 coupe.
The best option is to get a 7inch or shorter springs if you really want. Ill be upgrading to GCs and the top hats for shock travel as i like how my shocks still work after 2 years of abuse.
At least on my car, I was able to hammer the cups off the shock. It was a bitch, and they really didnt want to come free but they did. It could be different from you guys, but as far as I am told, it is not.
Gc's are great, and you will be able to get the spring that you want. The size and rate. I belive they ran around $70 a spring for custom ones.
Gc's are great, and you will be able to get the spring that you want. The size and rate. I belive they ran around $70 a spring for custom ones.
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Im not a noob at suspension so dont go over kill on these next few questions.
1) dropping the shock lower in the fork... your talking about spreading the opening on the fork to slide more than the preset amount of the shock down it? Wouldnt that screw up trying to rebolt it in and not shim/move around? (same effect as use EG front forks?)
2) for flipping the perch (cup) on the rear shocks, arent they welded to the body?
Op ive had the same problem on my 89 Hatch for 2 years. I only run one adjuster on my coils (and every setup I install unless full bodies) and have AGX shocks with the 8inch DZ coils. Ive got them maxed out everywhere (being level with adjustment front and rear) and ive still got that dreaded gap in the rear (i even resulted in taking one of the adjusters out and just set the spring on the shock). The EFs are cursed with shorter suspension, because this setup use to SLAM my old 95 coupe.
The best option is to get a 7inch or shorter springs if you really want. Ill be upgrading to GCs and the top hats for shock travel as i like how my shocks still work after 2 years of abuse.
1) dropping the shock lower in the fork... your talking about spreading the opening on the fork to slide more than the preset amount of the shock down it? Wouldnt that screw up trying to rebolt it in and not shim/move around? (same effect as use EG front forks?)
2) for flipping the perch (cup) on the rear shocks, arent they welded to the body?
Op ive had the same problem on my 89 Hatch for 2 years. I only run one adjuster on my coils (and every setup I install unless full bodies) and have AGX shocks with the 8inch DZ coils. Ive got them maxed out everywhere (being level with adjustment front and rear) and ive still got that dreaded gap in the rear (i even resulted in taking one of the adjusters out and just set the spring on the shock). The EFs are cursed with shorter suspension, because this setup use to SLAM my old 95 coupe.
The best option is to get a 7inch or shorter springs if you really want. Ill be upgrading to GCs and the top hats for shock travel as i like how my shocks still work after 2 years of abuse.
for the rears you flip the tube that the spring sits on.
for the front i have had no problems moving the shock for up, you just hammer the brake line mount off and then hammer the fork up farther.
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