Ok, first question: There are 2 wires coming off of every sensor right? I know one goes to or comes from the ECU, but what is the other one go to?

Second: There are a few set of wires coming off the ECU that have shielding, if the wires are messed up and I have to run new wires from the harness to the sensor so do I need to replace the shielding, and if so where the FRACK do I get it from?!? Pics below of what I'm talking about. Thanks in advance!!!

 

The shielding pictured surrounds the signal wires for the distributor (TDC,CYP,CKP) This needs to be in place to avoid electrical interference.

 

Well damn... since I don't have any shielding to replace it with what would you recommend?

 

Got another question... I have an OBD1 ecu, but my H23 has a crank angle sensor. I have de-pined and repined the connectors as necessary, but I don't have a wire for position 22 on connector A. The wire if there goes to the ICM-Ignition Control Module, do I need to have that or did I de-pin it correctly?

 

Why don't you guys sell the shielding I would buy 20 damn feet from you right the hell now if you did lol. I was really expecting the tape to be a bad idea, I didn't even start to try it. I was going to wait and see if a few more guys said it was fine before doing it, but coming from you the advice to not is good enough for me my shielding search continues! Is there by chance another name for this crap? I have googled this **** for days and nothing...

 

1. Not every sensor has two wires. Most of the sensors that have two wires are typically ground and signal. Most of the single wire sensors are body grounded and send the signal via the wire.

2. Shielded sensors vary for each setup but mostly include CKP, CYP, TDC, CKF, O2.

Electrical tape is not the same as shielded wire. You can buy shielded wire from hundreds of places online. I can sell you shielded distributor wire also.

When you are refering to crank angle sensor....are you meaning crank angle sensor CKP or crank flux sensor CKF found on most OBD2 setups? You have to run the ICM wire.

 

So thanks for all the help with the shielding answers!!! PM sent to blown hatch for the shielding (thanks again!) and what now do I need to do as far as the sensors? I'll get a list of the ones I pinned in so you can tell me if I missed something or if I need to take something out.

 

Ok, I'm going to start with connector B. I want to get that one totally straightened out then get it installed, then start on A and D.

Here is the pinout list for the B connector:

1. IGP1 Power Ground (Pinned)
2. LG2 Logic Ground -This one is also where the shielding gets it's ground from (Pinned)
3. A/T sensor of some type (de-pinned)
4. A/T sensor of some type (De-Pinned)
5. ACS A/C Switch sensor (De-Pinned)
6. Empty slot (Left Empty)
7. Unknown (Empty)
8. PSPSW Power Steering Power Switch Signal (De-Pinned)
9. STS Starter Signal Switch (Pinned)
10. VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor (Pinned)

Slots 11-16 are shielded and I have not started soldering leads or labeling them. They are all pinned at this time. What exactly do I need to keep (I assume all), where do they go exactly. I assume that CYP is cylinder position, I was thinking that I could just go to the junkyard unplug the B connector, cut the 1-10 wires, and trace the shielded wires to wherever they end and unplug or cut them from the car and then take them home and de-pin them form the connector and pin them into my connector. Thoughts?

11. CYP P -CYP Sensor P-side Input
12. CYP M -CYP Ground M-side Signal
13. TDC P -TDC Ground P-Side Input
14. TDC M -TDC Ground M-Side Signal
15. CKP P -CKP Ground P-Side Input
16. CKP M -CKP Ground

My last question is do I have everything this far correct, because I feel I have a good start on this but I only have to mess up one for it to not be worth a damn. I went ahead and started labeling the pins for connector D so I can start on it when I get this one straightened out.



Ok, so here are the pins on the "D" connector:

1. VBU-Voltage Back Up
2.
3.
4
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.




Now that I have typed all this up I found this, adding it only for reference and to compare to mine.



KEY:
(voltage values measured in DC Volts unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange

KOEO = Key On Engine Off
KOER = Key On Engine Running

A, B, D= Slot. Numbers are read up and down from left to right, not straight across (see diagram at end).

A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V

B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V

 

Let me get that for you, here you go!

The readily available Honda shop manuals have all of this info plus the pin diagrams. If you want it I can send you the link?

You have yet to mention what type of vehicle you are working on. Other than your user name. One would have to assume that it's a wire harness for a Del Sol with an H23 swap that you are creating.

PM sent

 

Sorry, I should have mentioned the vehicle, it's a 95 eg hatch. I went to the JY today and look at what I found!!!!!









Now I REALLY wanted it to have the connectors on both ends so I could de-pin it and re-pin it into my custom harness, but oh well So now I have a new question, should I use this connector, or get the one off of my ****ed up harness, or cut the one off of my spare harness? The ****ed one is trashed, but the connectors are still good and is the one that went with the motor set when I got it. It runs the internal whatchamacallit, and the spare harness is from a prelude that had an external thingamajig. Coil pack I think....yeah, I think that's what I'm trying to think of. Anyway, I have the one off of the car I pulled the harness from, but not the dizzy. However I ALSO have a plug wire set, a blaster2 coil (Oh damn, that's what I was thinking of before!) and a crane cap and rotor set to swap to an external set-up. So what do you guys recommend?

 

I just went out and checked, the connectors are different, so should I start clipping connectors from my virgin harness to finish this one or what? I looked and I have no idea where the hacked harness is, so it's the virgin or nothing. Just to clarify, the dizzy wires from the 2 or 3 connectors only go to the ECU right? In running the wires straight from the ECU to the dizzy won't cause any problems will it?

 

Do not cut the connectors from the harness. You should be able to De-pin the wires from the connectors and reuse them. That way there is no possibility of a poor solder or shorting out of loose butt connections. Just make sure to carefully label all of the wires. Also make sure that you have up to date wire diagrams for all of the harnesses that you are using.

Taking a bit of time before you start a wiring project can save you a tone of time in the end.

 

Starting to wish I had started this instead of having some cut rate shop start it. They were supposed to do the swap and a bunch of other work to my del sol but three days in they tripled their price and cut the work. Long story short I told them they could shovel sand and I kicked rocks. They ****ed up my original harness and the new one I bought has a TON of extra connectors so I just said screw it and started on this one.

 

I just finished soldering the shielded wires together, I used all of the original shielded sleeve and all of the new sleeve. Please give me your thoughts, but please don't just say "Looks like ***, go play in traffic ****er!" If you see anything I need to change though PLEASE tell me so I can fix it. Here are the pics:

 

Buy some heat shrink and some other color wires. Get rid of that electrical tape and also put a piece of shrink on the wiring outside so that after you have confirmed things are good, shrink the entire outside of where you are working at. Nothing worse than sticky electrical tape and 50 of the same color wires when trying to troubleshoot and work on things. Nice fixture for holding the wires though.

 

Is there a good place to buy affordable HS tubing? The cheapest I can find it locally is around a buck each sleeve, you see 6 wires safely wrapped, I see 6 dollars...



EDIT: I just found some on Harbor freight... before I order a grip of it, anything wrong with it?

 

How long are the sleeves that you are seeing for $1 a piece?

Digikey sells 4ft sleeves for $10. Radio shack sells a pack of 12 pieces for $6. Each sleeve is 6" in length. Depending on how much exposed wire you leave. That should be good enough to do 3-6 large joints per sleeve. I like to try and make 1/2" exposed joints when ever possible. It saves on heat shrink when you can get 10-12 joints out of one 6" sleeve

 

Seeing as they have the nice long rolls, I think I will buy a roll or 2, and a pack of the assorted sizes. I was planning on wrapping all the wires separately to go to each sensor and doing a nice wire tuck since all the wires will be cut to the length needed. The tips of all the red wires are labeled like the other one I showed you guys.

 

I was thinking a roll of this: http://www.harborfreight.com/8mm-x-5...ing-98066.html


A roll of this: http://www.harborfreight.com/10mm-x-...ing-98067.html

And a box of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/120-pie...set-67530.html


Are those rolls the size I need to be looking at, or are they too big or too small?

 

About 4 inches usually, I saw the ones at RS and was thinking I could only get 2 or so uses out of each, much cheaper than a buck each but still kind of expensive. Would you recommend I take the gray shielded section out and re-soldier the harness without it so I can heat shrink that section? I assume the best way to do it is HS each wire, then HS the bundle, right?

 

The best way to do it is to HS each wire then HS the entire bundle. Remember to slide the larger sleeve over the bundle before you solder all the individual wires. It makes it easier to slide the sleeve a few inches vs the entire length of the harness. I've forgotten a few times and ended up just re soldering vs sliding the HS from one of the ends. I guess it really depends on how far it is to the closest end though.

Best way to size HS is to measure the Outside Diameter of your wire and match that to the shrunken size of the HS. Some HS has a 2:1 shrink ratio and others 3:1. You want to make sure that the OD of your wire is a little larger than the shrunken size of the HS you choose.

 

I was just looking online, and home depot has some really good prices. I'm about 3 hours from HF so I'll go get that in 2 weeks, but for today, HD FTW!!!

 

Well, HD didn't have ****. I got 2 8 packs and cut each into 3. They're a tad too big, but they'll be fine once I get the big one over the whole thing. I went ahead and cut out the little bit that was left from the original harness and spliced in the new piece. Now here's the new issue. I have the B connector, and I have all of the colors for the wires, but the harness I am going to have to cut the other connector off of and splice in has other colors. I know what wires go to what coming from the connector, but I don't know what goes to what on the other end. I will more than likely just go to the JY tomorrow and cut off a connector from another lude and use it so I don't eff mine up. Is there a way to de-pin the dizzy end of the harness at all?

 

There is a way to de-pin all Honda connectors. How depends on what style connector you are talking about. Some have a white cover inside the connector that can be removed to expose the retaining clip others you can see the retaining clip as soon as you disconnect the connectors.

Here is an example;


The top two openings house the female connectors, the bottom two openings are openings for the retaining clip.

This opening is used to insert a tool used to release the retaining clip from the electrical wire connector. If you look inside this opening you can see the plastic portion of the connector that is holding the wire clip in place.


This plastic piece has to be lifted/pried up to release the wire clip. If you pull back on the wire end at the same time the wire should slide out.

 

Jason has a lot of good wiring info on his site:

http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/...in_removal.jpg
http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/

Here is my contribution to the injector clips...and if you need help on the distributor plug, I can show that too.