all motor b18c1
alright, as of now i have a b18c1 with an old school skunk2 intake manifold, itr throttle body, toda adjustable cam gears, dc 4-2-1 ceramic header, walbro 255 fuel pump, 345cc h22 injectors, and a b&m fuel pressure regulator
i should be coming into some itr valvetrain, cams, and pistons soon for about $450 for everything, i think its a great deal, so im looking into doing this
would i have to run a thicker headgasket? or can i use the oem c1 3 layer?
will i have to do any machine work to have this work properly?
will i be safe shifting at 9k?
can i run this setup on a chipped and socketed p28?
what kind of power can i expect from this, will it be the same as itr (considering itll be a slight bit higher in cr that an itr, and the only main difference then would be the mild oem port on the itr head)? if its not gonna be anymore than like 10-20whp then id rather waste, the money on spray or something...
also i plan on getting arp headstuds just to be safe, any other suggestions?
i should be coming into some itr valvetrain, cams, and pistons soon for about $450 for everything, i think its a great deal, so im looking into doing this
would i have to run a thicker headgasket? or can i use the oem c1 3 layer?
will i have to do any machine work to have this work properly?
will i be safe shifting at 9k?
can i run this setup on a chipped and socketed p28?
what kind of power can i expect from this, will it be the same as itr (considering itll be a slight bit higher in cr that an itr, and the only main difference then would be the mild oem port on the itr head)? if its not gonna be anymore than like 10-20whp then id rather waste, the money on spray or something...
also i plan on getting arp headstuds just to be safe, any other suggestions?
would i have to run a thicker headgasket? or can i use the oem c1 3 layer? I have a B18C1 with all ITR parts, use OEM.
will i have to do any machine work to have this work properly? NOPE
will i be safe shifting at 9k? NOPE, you will not make power that high anyway
can i run this setup on a chipped and socketed p28? Maybe, best would be to have your car tuned for your specific set-up
what kind of power can i expect from this, will it be the same as itr (considering itll be a slight bit higher in cr that an itr, and the only main difference then would be the mild oem port on the itr head)? Stock ITR's make about 170-175whp on a Dynojet and GSR' make 140-145whp. You should be able to get to the 175 range. I actually did that with GSR cams and ITR pistons.
will i have to do any machine work to have this work properly? NOPE
will i be safe shifting at 9k? NOPE, you will not make power that high anyway
can i run this setup on a chipped and socketed p28? Maybe, best would be to have your car tuned for your specific set-up
what kind of power can i expect from this, will it be the same as itr (considering itll be a slight bit higher in cr that an itr, and the only main difference then would be the mild oem port on the itr head)? Stock ITR's make about 170-175whp on a Dynojet and GSR' make 140-145whp. You should be able to get to the 175 range. I actually did that with GSR cams and ITR pistons.
Your shift point should be 200-300rpm past peak horsepower. I believe my ITR cams peak at about 7800-8000rpm. I am running ITR springs, ITR valves (lighter than GSR) and my rocker arms have been lighten. My fuel cut is set at 8600rpm.
Incorrect you will require machine work, a valve job is a requirement for any kind of performance engine.
The valves should be checked for straightness then refaced and the seats need to be checked, and either cut or ground to restore the sealing surface.
The guides should also be checked for wear. They're almost always worn, so they need to be replaced.
The valve springs need to be inspected and tested to make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure.
The spring retainers, keepers likewise should be inspected. Any worn or damaged components replaced.
New valve guide seals need to be installed.
Proper valve height needs to be measured and corrected.
And not to even mentioned anything about reusing pistons in old cylinders!
YES, you will need to have machine work completed!
The valves should be checked for straightness then refaced and the seats need to be checked, and either cut or ground to restore the sealing surface.
The guides should also be checked for wear. They're almost always worn, so they need to be replaced.
The valve springs need to be inspected and tested to make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure.
The spring retainers, keepers likewise should be inspected. Any worn or damaged components replaced.
New valve guide seals need to be installed.
Proper valve height needs to be measured and corrected.
And not to even mentioned anything about reusing pistons in old cylinders!
YES, you will need to have machine work completed!
Last edited by DB2-R81; Dec 1, 2010 at 08:37 AM.
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Incorrect you will require machine work, a valve job is a requirement for any kind of performance engine.
The valves should be checked for straightness then refaced and the seats need to be checked, and either cut or ground to restore the sealing surface.
The guides should also be checked for wear. They're almost always worn, so they need to be replaced.
The valve springs need to be inspected and tested to make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure.
The spring retainers, keepers likewise should be inspected. Any worn or damaged components replaced.
New valve guide seals need to be installed.
Proper valve height needs to be measured and corrected.
And not to even mentioned anything about reusing pistons in old cylinders!
YES, you will need to have machine work completed!
The valves should be checked for straightness then refaced and the seats need to be checked, and either cut or ground to restore the sealing surface.
The guides should also be checked for wear. They're almost always worn, so they need to be replaced.
The valve springs need to be inspected and tested to make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure.
The spring retainers, keepers likewise should be inspected. Any worn or damaged components replaced.
New valve guide seals need to be installed.
Proper valve height needs to be measured and corrected.
And not to even mentioned anything about reusing pistons in old cylinders!
YES, you will need to have machine work completed!
I would look here http://www.cccylinderheads.com . Good work and reasonable price and would make sure it it done right.
thanks everyone for your input, ill be looking at doing this asap, and post dyo charts of before and after, thanks for the help everyone
ill be looking into using ctr cams instead, since they are sliiiiightly more aggressive
ill be looking into using ctr cams instead, since they are sliiiiightly more aggressive
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