89 Accord Auto 4Dr
As the title states I am having a little issue finding the diagnostix 2 pin connector to check the CEL. I thought it would be under the passenger glove box as a 90-97 Accord but stupid me it isn't. I cannot seem to find it anywhere. Does anyone know where it is located and if it is even on this year accord so that I may check the CEL codes. Thaks a lot guys.
Under the drivers seat. No connector, little platic window, open it, turn the car to on-'II". count the flashes. And yes, I have the manual if you need help with any codes. Got a few in that gen.
EDIT: Just wondering-DX, LX or LXi?
EDIT2: View, find this window and light from the back seat, looking under ther drivers seat.--slide the driver seat forward for a little more room...always helped me.
EDIT: Just wondering-DX, LX or LXi?
EDIT2: View, find this window and light from the back seat, looking under ther drivers seat.--slide the driver seat forward for a little more room...always helped me.
Last edited by poorman212; Nov 30, 2010 at 05:11 PM.
dude your amazing. I would have never guessed it was there. I have the chilton 84 through 95 accord book and it has a chart for 86-89 accord fault codes. It only contains 17 codes is this correct on your end as well? If not I would be very greatful if you can send me a copy or if you may take a little time to type it up so I can keep a copy for myself. If it is not an inconvenience to you. Again thanks a lot for the info and help.
My pleasure-glad to know the years of playing with that gen can help someone else, I've played with this gen for a long time. Have a few still in the stable, had a couple more before as well. Kept them running, no mod's, just get me where I need to go at around 32~33 mpg in my mixed use (highway/city). Avg per tank milage drops below 30, time for a tune up-cap, rotor, wires, ~maybe air, fuel filter.
17 sounds about right(? FI and Carb can/are a little different), been a while since I had any issues. See what/if any codes you have. If your manual/book doesn't list or need more info, pm me and I'll look. I got mine from spoonertuner a while back...you might try that.....still would like to know, just for my own reasons and posible future help, DX-LX-LXi. If you're not sure I know the options they came with well enough to get there with a few more questions.
17 sounds about right(? FI and Carb can/are a little different), been a while since I had any issues. See what/if any codes you have. If your manual/book doesn't list or need more info, pm me and I'll look. I got mine from spoonertuner a while back...you might try that.....still would like to know, just for my own reasons and posible future help, DX-LX-LXi. If you're not sure I know the options they came with well enough to get there with a few more questions.
Yeah I know what you mean got a few 94-95 accords all lx and ex models. I baby them as much as I can but unleash them when need be on the drag or every now and then when someone challenges me on the highway. Not saying its ok but at these times there is no one there so let'em be. I am assuming this one is a LXi but not quite sure. We pulled the code and its showing 6 which is coolant temperature. I am going to go the safe route and replace the coolant temp sensor, coolant temp gauge sender and radiator fan switch which are all on the thermo housing. But this kind of makes me question something else is wrong. The car feels like its lost power and it cannot be becase of a coolant temp sensor. The car was timed correctly and everything is connected and no other codes are being put out on the indicator. All vacuum hoses are intact and in good condition. Dont know what it could be. I do notice that his exhaust at about midway the weld point is not done properly and there is an exahust leak from there. Maybe this loss of back pressure is causing him to lose power.
LX-i would be a Fuel Injected model? Code #6 is for ECT-High idle-High idle during warm up-Hard start when cold. So let's think about this-if the ECU "thinks" the car is cold it would cause some performance issues-again we are talking about an old car so "performance"-take it for what it is. My Chevy never runs right until she warms up- then lets ride.
If you have the code be sure to test why-then I would start with just the ECT-two pin switch by t-stat (balck?~from front of car-to the right of where you purge air from the coolant sys). Gauge is reading correct, fans cycle on and off...leave the rest alone for now. Those are different switches/senders.
A tune up? T-B Cleaning? What is the timing light telling you, bad advance-belt can be right, but who knows what the person before you did,,,adj timing because they were a tooth off?
DX-Carb and no power anything(windows, locks, ect)
LX-Carb. Has power windows, door locks.
LX-i- Fuel Inject. Power everything. 4 door should have sun/moon roof and "mag" wheels.
If you have the code be sure to test why-then I would start with just the ECT-two pin switch by t-stat (balck?~from front of car-to the right of where you purge air from the coolant sys). Gauge is reading correct, fans cycle on and off...leave the rest alone for now. Those are different switches/senders.
A tune up? T-B Cleaning? What is the timing light telling you, bad advance-belt can be right, but who knows what the person before you did,,,adj timing because they were a tooth off?
DX-Carb and no power anything(windows, locks, ect)
LX-Carb. Has power windows, door locks.
LX-i- Fuel Inject. Power everything. 4 door should have sun/moon roof and "mag" wheels.
LX-i would be a Fuel Injected model? Code #6 is for ECT-High idle-High idle during warm up-Hard start when cold. So let's think about this-if the ECU "thinks" the car is cold it would cause some performance issues-again we are talking about an old car so "performance"-take it for what it is. My Chevy never runs right until she warms up- then lets ride.
If you have the code be sure to test why-then I would start with just the ECT-two pin switch by t-stat (balck?~from front of car-to the right of where you purge air from the coolant sys). Gauge is reading correct, fans cycle on and off...leave the rest alone for now. Those are different switches/senders.
A tune up? T-B Cleaning? What is the timing light telling you, bad advance-belt can be right, but who knows what the person before you did,,,adj timing because they were a tooth off?
DX-Carb and no power anything(windows, locks, ect)
LX-Carb. Has power windows, door locks.
LX-i- Fuel Inject. Power everything. 4 door should have sun/moon roof and "mag" wheels.
If you have the code be sure to test why-then I would start with just the ECT-two pin switch by t-stat (balck?~from front of car-to the right of where you purge air from the coolant sys). Gauge is reading correct, fans cycle on and off...leave the rest alone for now. Those are different switches/senders.
A tune up? T-B Cleaning? What is the timing light telling you, bad advance-belt can be right, but who knows what the person before you did,,,adj timing because they were a tooth off?
DX-Carb and no power anything(windows, locks, ect)
LX-Carb. Has power windows, door locks.
LX-i- Fuel Inject. Power everything. 4 door should have sun/moon roof and "mag" wheels.
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Sorry, back to point. If you have a #6, then test the ECT. If bad replace and see if that helps the "performance".
I was only trying to keep you away from the "other" switches/sensors....just like the 4th and new gens there are different switches for the "other" funtions.
If the temp gauge if fine-leave it alone. Single pin switch.
If the fans are cyc on and off leave the fan switch alone-two pin....testing memory here..in the rad.
EDIT: I wasn't questioning the belt timing. more making sure the dist was in the proper place. After the new cap-rotor check the timing with a light-PLUG the hoses at the vac advance on the dist when/while doing this.
I was only trying to keep you away from the "other" switches/sensors....just like the 4th and new gens there are different switches for the "other" funtions.
If the temp gauge if fine-leave it alone. Single pin switch.
If the fans are cyc on and off leave the fan switch alone-two pin....testing memory here..in the rad.
EDIT: I wasn't questioning the belt timing. more making sure the dist was in the proper place. After the new cap-rotor check the timing with a light-PLUG the hoses at the vac advance on the dist when/while doing this.
hey man whats up. I switched out the ECT and reset the ECU and I am still getting code #6. Im stuck now and dont know what to do from here. I know that single pin swicth works.
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