wierd heating problems ill have heat coming out one minute and then it blows cold air
wierd heating problems ill have heat coming out one minute and then it blows cold air and starts fogging up the windows
ok i have a 1990 honda accord 4 door with the stock f22a1 in it and the heater in it always blows at a slow speed and 6 times out of ten it blows out cold air for like the first 45 mins driving it and then goes hot for a bit and then cold again without changing any of the climate control settings and also it seems to blow slow all the time no matter what fan speed setting i have it on and i dont really know much about the accord heating system does it have electric actuators to change all tht stuff or what cause this **** is getting old barely ever having any heat
Your problem with the temp is most likely a clogged heater core. Find and replace that.
As far as motor speed, it is either the switch or the fan itself.
As far as motor speed, it is either the switch or the fan itself.
What is the gauge doing-on the dash-T-stat stuck open?. Have you checked the movement of the heater control valve. Assuming the coolant level is full?
The blower going slow, that is another issue...unless you only get heat when it speeds up?
The blower going slow, that is another issue...unless you only get heat when it speeds up?
t-stat cant be stuck cause sometimes its hot sometimes coldi almost think tht theres an electric piece tht controls a flap tht lests air pass through heater core and also it jnever blows very fast out the defrost vents
Ok, then you are saying the temp gauge is at "normal temp" when this happens, correct.
The in/out hoses at the heater core are both hot?
Coolant is full?
The only elect "flap" on that gen is for the inside/out side air. The one that controls the heater vs evap core is controlled by cable-which make me ask a question again-the cable at the heater valve is moving? Related to question about the temp of the hoses coming in/out of the heater core.
What is the voltage at the blower motor in the different positions of the fan speed switch.
Last. What manual do you have and are using to find out the issue for this car.
Done.
The in/out hoses at the heater core are both hot?
Coolant is full?
The only elect "flap" on that gen is for the inside/out side air. The one that controls the heater vs evap core is controlled by cable-which make me ask a question again-the cable at the heater valve is moving? Related to question about the temp of the hoses coming in/out of the heater core.
What is the voltage at the blower motor in the different positions of the fan speed switch.
Last. What manual do you have and are using to find out the issue for this car.
Done.
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My uncle's '94 Accord EX Auto did the same thing! Blew out hot air for a few mins then all of the sudden cold air coming through the vents. I then did a t-stat, water pump(leaking badly), and refill the coolant up to level since it was low, and its been fine since then.
My opinion would be low coolant level. Does it overheats?? I'd check the heater control valve, it might be stuck half way closed which causes almost to no coolant coming into the heater core.
-If t-stat is stuck closed, it'll overheat cause the t-stat won't let coolant flow through the system.
-If it's stuck open, the temp gauge would always sit near "Cold" whenever you're on the highway. It'll get up to normal temp when you're idling for a long time but once you get on the freeway, it'll drop down near to "COLD" on the temp gauge.
I say its not a heater core problem; otherwise, you'd smell coolant inside the interior and see puddles of coolant on the front passenger floor but it can be clogged up not letting coolant flow back to the radiator which may be one reason why its not getting hot air through. And no, its not electric control when choosing blue to red zone. It's cable wire control to the heater control valve to open/close coolant to the heater core.
Good Luck!
My opinion would be low coolant level. Does it overheats?? I'd check the heater control valve, it might be stuck half way closed which causes almost to no coolant coming into the heater core.
-If t-stat is stuck closed, it'll overheat cause the t-stat won't let coolant flow through the system.
-If it's stuck open, the temp gauge would always sit near "Cold" whenever you're on the highway. It'll get up to normal temp when you're idling for a long time but once you get on the freeway, it'll drop down near to "COLD" on the temp gauge.
I say its not a heater core problem; otherwise, you'd smell coolant inside the interior and see puddles of coolant on the front passenger floor but it can be clogged up not letting coolant flow back to the radiator which may be one reason why its not getting hot air through. And no, its not electric control when choosing blue to red zone. It's cable wire control to the heater control valve to open/close coolant to the heater core.
Good Luck!
+1 for low coolant. The blend doors (door that directs air to or away from the heater core) on these cars are controlled by the heater valve cable.
ok i do have to put very lil water in it occasionally like once every 2 to 4 days and t-stat is brand new and ive hooked my hose up 2 both ends of heater core and they both flow through just as fast as the hose is flowing water out usually i dont get stumped tht easily but this is stumping me for sure
Is there any more information that hasn't been shared?
The first obvious answer is, find and fix the leak.
Then when you refill the coolant make sure you bleed the air out of the system.
The first obvious answer is, find and fix the leak.
Then when you refill the coolant make sure you bleed the air out of the system.
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