hooking innovate lc1 wideband to hondata s300
ok, im trying to figure out which wires on the ecu (p28) to attach to the wideband...i know on the directions that came from innovate it says to hook the heater to a 12v source, but can i hook it to a6 (primary o2 heater control)? ive also read about hooking up d10 or d14... I guess my real question is which wires from the wideband should i hook to the ecu and where. also, to get the o2 heater cel to turn off! somebody help! im trying to get this done today.
When talking about hooking it up to the ECU, you'll want to refer to the analog inputs section of the Hondata Help. D10 and D14 are inputs, which you'll soon find out. You wire the analog output of the wideband to the analog input of the ECU and set it up in the software. Hook power and ground for the wideband up as the Innovate directions tell you to, not the ECU output pins... unless you want to see some components pop.
ok so, im going to hook up the analog output from my wideband to d10 (eld) on the ecu. ive already wired up the wideband per innovate's directions, except the output to ecu. is this going to make the cel go off for o2 heater or what am i going to need to do to make that go off? its really bugging me.
ah im stupid i just found where to disable the o2 heater...i knew i had seen it on there before. sweet, goodbye cel!
one more question about the lc1 though...i want to use the led that came with it for error codes, do i have to wire it through the calibration button or can i just use the led???
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The led and calibration button are completely optional. You can hook them up parallel if you want to use both, or either one by themself between the black calibration wire and ground. You can also use the standard o2 sensor input (D14 on obd1) to the brown anoalog output on the LC-1 and setup in smanager to use the innovate's output for lambda readings rather than the stock o2 output. Make sure you cut/break the d14 wire away from the harness so it no longer gets reading from the stock o2 wire coming from the engine. You can 100% safely connect the LC-1 to ECU wires only for use and not need to tap in anywhere else:
Hook switched 12v (red) to A25, all three grounds (white,blue,black calib wire) to B2, and as mentioned brown analog to D14. make sure you put a fuse in the red wire though. This is exactly how we build our innovate LC-1 / obd1 tuning harnesses together. This allows you to simply plug in the straight through harness between the cabin harness and tuning ECU, and install the wideband in the exhaust without any cutting necessary to the stock wiring.
Hook switched 12v (red) to A25, all three grounds (white,blue,black calib wire) to B2, and as mentioned brown analog to D14. make sure you put a fuse in the red wire though. This is exactly how we build our innovate LC-1 / obd1 tuning harnesses together. This allows you to simply plug in the straight through harness between the cabin harness and tuning ECU, and install the wideband in the exhaust without any cutting necessary to the stock wiring.
Hook switched 12v (red) to A25, all three grounds (white,blue,black calib wire) to B2, and as mentioned brown analog to D14. make sure you put a fuse in the red wire though. This is exactly how we build our innovate LC-1 / obd1 tuning harnesses together. This allows you to simply plug in the straight through harness between the cabin harness and tuning ECU, and install the wideband in the exhaust without any cutting necessary to the stock wiring.
I would rather use a 0-5 volt input such as the ELD input.
Just my 2 cents :-)
The LC-1 uses very little current, so using the ONE of the switched 12v inputs to the ECU works fine. Also, the same for using ONE of the ECU grounds.
My $.02
well like i said, ive already wired it up per innovate's instructions, and am going to wire the analog output to d10 (eld).
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