i want to switch to a 16 volt battery but have been told not to go any more than 14 volts for s300. i also have been told it is ok to put 16 volts to s300.

does anyone know for certain? or is anyone using a 16 volt battery w/ their s300?

also does anyone know of a good 16 volt battery w/ a voltage regulator built into the battery? i know they are available and have seen them before but cant remember who makes them...

 

The ECU itself contains a voltage regulator i'm fairly positive you would be fine.

 

what about the voltage offset option under fuel trim, does that mean the ecu is NOT regulating injector voltage?

next question related to the fuel pump... if i start my run @ 16 volts and it drops to 13 volts by the end of the run i would guess the varying voltage would affect fuel pressure throughout the run which would affect the tune throughout the run correct?

 

The injector voltage compensation is how the ECU regulates the injector dead time in conjunction with varying voltages. Adding a 16v battery you will see that the dead time is automatically adjusted depending on the injectors you are using. IIRC The default Hondata voltage compensation table goes from 0.00v up to 24.55v.

The fuel pressure is not regulated by the fuel pump or the voltage going to it. It may flow more or less per hour given varying voltages. However, the fuel pressure should still be regulated by your fuel pressure regulator.

 

im pretty sure the ecu will have a filter due to the crazy stuff happening to the electrical system during cranking/startup

why are you going to a 16V battery? i've never heard of this in a performance application until now.

 

And i was about to type almost that, but in a drunken turkey como i could not, thx u for doing so.

 

i understand the fpr controls pressure, but if you add or take away voltage and the pump changes its output that should change pressure unless you adjust your fpr to compensate for the pump putting out more or less gph. and you cant adjust the fpr while going down the track. does that sound right?

 

if this was true then the shop cars with 16volt batteries should have datalogged a drop in fuel pressure as the car went down the track.
if your so worried about it do a DC to DC power supply and regulate that 16volts to 12.5volts...wouldnt take much to do.

you can use something like this http://www.powerstream.com/dc-buck-boost.htm or build one yourself...they arent hard to build...but if i went this route i would not use a 16volt battery i would use 2 12volt batteries in series and regulate it down to around 13 volts with something like http://www.jr.com/pyle/pe/PYL_PSWNV480

 

alot of drag racers run 16v batteries and some even run two batteries (mostly domestic guys).

i want to get rid of the alternator when using a standard 12v battery it will drop below 11 volts by the end of the run. so i was thinking of switching to a 16 volt battery to prevent it from dropping below 12v.

i did some research today and found some 12v battery options that may work very well at sustaining voltage for as much as 15 minutes w/o using an alternator, also found the same thing in 16v options. the you would obviously recharge the battery between rounds at the track.

there is a new company to look out for next season. they have come up w/ a lithium race battery which weighs 3 lbs and sustains 12v for 13 minutes @ 100 amp load. also only takes 8 minutes to fully recharge from a dead state.

 

correct

i would think putting 16 volts to a pump designed to operate off of 12v would cause it pump more just like 11 volts causes it to pump less.

i lost some pressure when my 12v battery dropped to 11v after turning the alt off while going down the track.

 

those lithium polymer batteries are great! just be careful when you charge them...if they get to hot they do explode...we use them in our radio controlled planes.
the 16volt batteries though do work really well and the 1-2volts drop isnt enough of a difference to worry about. when i used to datalog and tune the shop cars i had no problem keeping the a/f flat through the run on a 16volt battery.
you could also use the 16volt battery to directly power the ignition/fuel pump/starter/radiator fan(if you even have one) and use a DC to DC power supply to supply the ecu/sensors/injectors if you want to be super paranoid. could even take it one step further and use a dc to dc power supply for the fuel pump.

 

there are also 3 post batteries available w/ one post being 12v and the other being 16v so you can run your 12v accesories from the 12v post.

i think i will most likely get a good 12v battery that can sustain 12v for at least 10 minutes while in the staging lanes and the return road/pits. the only problem is they are expensive in the 250. to 1200. range and some recomend a special automatic charger to charge them properly which costs another 300. to 400. lol

 

randy check this out http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/pro...p?P=KHC16V&C=1
im currently using the hc800 in my cars...it kicks the crap out of the odyssey pc680.
also for you guys running the pc680 kinetik makes an hc600 battery that is a tiny bit smaller (would fit in the same place as the pc680) weighs less and puts out more power. The odyssey pc680 is rated at 17amp hour and the kinetik hc600 is rated at 20amp hour with much higher surge output for starting.

the other thing you may consider doing randy....split up the elctrical system and run the ecu/sensors/injectors off the lithium polymer battery pack and use an SLA battery for the high current things like starter/fuel pump/fan
i see so many ways to get creative with this...ive never seen anyone do it. someone would need to sit down with pen and paper and work out all the specs to see what would be the best way to go for weight and run time on the batteries.