Need help figuring out a couple things on my 91 ef
Alright here it goes i have a 91 ef that i just recently put a b16 swap in and i have a few issues that i need to get straightened out...Here are the codes im throwing 10-IAT 14-IACV 21-VTAK Spool Solenoid...One of the biggest issues i'm having is that my car does not like idling when i first start it and its cold why is it doing that? i replaced the IACV one day and it didn't help at all still doing the same thing it was doing and still throwing the code and when i hold the throttle at a certain point my engine will lope...i thought about just wiring it straight to my ecu to simplify things dunno if that's what needs to be done or not...I was also wondering one more thing im running a chipped P28 ecu with an obd0 to obd1 conversion harness and im still using my cable speedo but my ecu is not throwing a speed sensor code is there any reason why the code wouldn't show up when i jump it with a wire? If anyone could shine some light and knowledge on my situation it would be greatly appreciated thanks....
bump, I helped him put this thing together and it has left me scratching my head. The wiring is correct unless there is a break in it that we do not know about.. would these codes cause the not wanting to cold start? like he said he tried replacing the iacv with no luck.. im wondering if maybe there is a common ground for all these sensors that is causing them all to throw.. any help would be greatly appreciated guys!
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bump, I helped him put this thing together and it has left me scratching my head. The wiring is correct unless there is a break in it that we do not know about.. would these codes cause the not wanting to cold start? like he said he tried replacing the iacv with no luck.. im wondering if maybe there is a common ground for all these sensors that is causing them all to throw.. any help would be greatly appreciated guys!
have you tried switching the iat and the iacv plugs around? they are the same style of plug, easy to get them switched around and will cause the crap tastic idle you're describing.
as far as your vss goes the ecu is still getting the signal. the speedometer in the gauge cluster converts the mechanical revolutions into and electrical signal and sends that signal to the ecu. i know this because i tore apart an old gauge cluster to use the speedo guts to convert to a home brew electronic vss so my gsr cluster would work correctly untill i could source a d series evss.
as far as your vss goes the ecu is still getting the signal. the speedometer in the gauge cluster converts the mechanical revolutions into and electrical signal and sends that signal to the ecu. i know this because i tore apart an old gauge cluster to use the speedo guts to convert to a home brew electronic vss so my gsr cluster would work correctly untill i could source a d series evss.
im not here to offer any advice but i was curious about your avatar...is that really a tattoo you got on your body because the :roflcopter; is circiling wanting to know...!!!
yup it is my tattoo...yes i did try to switch them around and no change in how it idled...well im glad that cleared up why i wasn't throwing a code for a vss...
I was wondering one more thing i spent hours and hours a few nights ago searching and trying to study up on cold start issues and read alot about the FIV and what it does then i looked at my TB and i dont have one im guessing cause its a newer model one but would that have an affect as well on my cold start issues?

I was wondering one more thing i spent hours and hours a few nights ago searching and trying to study up on cold start issues and read alot about the FIV and what it does then i looked at my TB and i dont have one im guessing cause its a newer model one but would that have an affect as well on my cold start issues?
Last edited by love_ek9's; Nov 20, 2010 at 01:31 AM.
So I had the exact same problem when I converted to Obd1 it ended up being the tune on my chip something wasn't quite right got it retuned and runs perfect fires right up and idles great
Ya my tuner didn't get it either but now that I've thought about it I do remember one other thing that gave me idling issues and that was on my obdo to obd1 jumper two of the wires broke right off the studs after resoldering it cleared the cel and straightened out
yea i think theres a break in a wire somewhere to but not on the jumper...in the harness so i think im jus gonna wire it straight from the obd1 side of the jumper to the sensors so atleast i will kno its right...
dont do it from the obd1 side do it from the obd0 that way you always have the option of switching back and since you had to extend the iacv wires follow the 2 down to where you extended them and make sure theyre connected my car was like this for at least 3 months before i took the time to sort everything out it was just a broke wire, in the meantime i unplugged my fpr vaccum line which brought the idle up, but for now just check every wire you extended iacv is green plug, iat is white plug
Last edited by dohc4life; Nov 25, 2010 at 01:10 AM. Reason: wrong info
yea thats true i will wire it from the obd0 side of the jumper first...my plug for my iacv is white and so is my iat but i kno its the right wires cause i checked the colors on a diagram before i extended them...but i know for sure that the wires are connected where i extended them cause there soldered and i double checked them yesterday i wish i had a volt or ohm meter but i dont...
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Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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