As stated in the title, my under drive pulley that came on the car when I bought it used doesn't have timing marks.

It is a Bomz under drive crank Pulley

the car is:
1998 Acura Integra GS-R B18c1


I'm looking at putting some New ITR pistons in and am not sure what I should do... :/

ANY AND ALL HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

 

get a piston stop or just make one yourself. place that in clyinder #1, once you're at TDC make a mark on the crank which should line up with the indicator on the oil pump or lower timing cover..... just remember the cam gears make two revolutions for every complete revolution of the crankshaft

 

Get a stock pulley

 

x2. i hate that aftermarket garbage. the idiots couldn't even manufacture their parts with timing marks on them?

 

definitely get factory pulley before anything else!

 

ditch that aluminum door stop bud, that AL crank pulley does nothing but transfer a crap ton of bad harmonics to the oil pump gear

 

^^What he said.

 

I never even heard of Bomz.... but if you had to run an aftermarket pulley, ATI makes a great harmonic damper. Listen to the guys above and stick with oem. Otherwise, you can kiss your oil pump goodbye. My bro had a pretty bad case of crank walk a few months after using a UR aluminum crank pulley. I would suggest you do some research before you buy parts for your car, it will pay off in the end. Good luck with your build

 

tick tick tick tick tick tick....

 

Yea well my uncle told me he heard on the internets you all think like a bunch of ten year old girls!

Correlation does not imply causation!!!!!

 

I had an aluminum underdrive crank pulley once. Mine eventually ate my crank and woodruff key. I had to have the crankshaft repaired...I dont think Ill ever use an undampened crank pulley again...
Besides engine harmonics, it also dampens the Torque spikes to the accessories, PS,AC, and the alternator effectively smoothing them out.Not so "jerky" so to speak.
Without any kind of buffer, that little tiny woodruff key sees alot of stress at 9k rpms...Just about every manufacturer Ive ever seen dampens the engine pulsations in one way or another.
Put a stock crank pulley on it before something happens. They're there for a reason.
Thats just been my experience...

 

I would consider this operator error, a woodruff key is an alignment or positioning device and is not designed to prevent the crank pulley from rotating on the shaft during operation.

Don't tighten a pulley down on the shaft correctly and it will simply destroy itself and whatever is it resting on, can’t fault the pulley or its design.

 

Everything seemed to fit just fine, but you could tell the solid feel just wasnt there as with the oem pulley.Obviously since ones steel and the other is AL. It didnt seem to feel as snug as the oem either. The "Clink" wasnt as solid..Well, after a months or so worth of use, it started to wobble and make noise. I then found the pulley had vibrated itself and began to "roll" the key into the crankshaft...
The result was a crankshaft that needed to be repaired. Anything is possible.It could have been installer error, but Ive never had a problem with the few hundred or so other crank pulleys Ive installed and removed...
I honestly think it was the shitty aluminum underdrive crank pulley. But this is all just my opinion on them...

 

This is the same experience I had with one of my buddie's builds. He was set on using an Unorthodox AL pulley, despite my protest. A few months later he came over for a tune up. I was curious to see how the key was since I also noticed it wasn't as snug as an oem balancer. Sure enough when I removed the bolt and washer I noticed the key was damaged and the AL pulley was rounded off, and on the verge of spinning out.
I've installed countless timing belts, built several dozen motors and never had an issue with an oem balancer.

 

Thats right listen to your uncle. LOL

 

This was the kind of answer I was looking for!

Thanks for all of the input, I think I'm going to put a stock pulley on and just sell the underdrive... Now to price out a degree wheel and a piston stop so I don't run into this problem again!

 

good idearrrr