im sorry for not knowing the correct terms of the parts...

i searched for days before i actually took on this task and found countless threads with a bunch of empty answers. im sorry i dont have time to do a write up or how to but i will do my best to explain in detail with pics. it really is very very simple.

now on to the swap....

some common questions i found posted by other users were

question: will a manual rack bolt up to a cross member that previously had a power steering rack?
answer :YES IT WILL!!! but i will note that it is not a 100% direct bolt on

question : will the tie rods from a ps rack fit a manual rack?
answer : YES they will

question : do i have to change out my cross member from the steering rack im going to use?

answer : no you do not. you can retain your original cross member


now for the evidence :

the only difference that i could tell between the two crossmembers is that the mounting point of the u bend clamp thingy is different. the power steering one is slightly bigger to accomodate the bigger shaft from the power steering assembly. but not by much.

i bought a manual rack from a upull it junk yard for 25 bucks. as you can see in the pic below it was bare/without both the inner and outer tie rods.

so i took my original tie rods out and they fit perfect on the manual rack. look like stock. at first i wasnt 100% sure because a local parts store lists 2 different part numbers for the manual and power steering tie rods.
this is my original power steering rack removed from the hatch.

and this is the manual rack with my original tie rods installed

in order to retain your orginal crossmember and make the manual rack function without play,you need to keep the rubber sleeve thingy that comes off the power rack when the clamp is removed. the manual rack has a rubber square type deal that doesnt come off. all you have do do is slide the round rubber sleeve from the power rack directly over the rubber square. it fits and seals perfect. the ends touch and the u clamp directly fits over the rack with no play . you can tell right away when its in your hand.

at this point i installed the manual rack like it was the original. the two 14mm's bolted on very tight to the cross member. as of today i had driven 86miles with the manual rack so i re checked the bolts and they are as tight as when i put them on. i dont have any doubts but i was just double checking my work. a few hours ago i had the car aligned and have about 45miles and counting. i love the manual rack.

i hope ive put a stop to the bull **** answers to the questions being asked. although im sure somebody will still not search to find my thread. enjoy

 

i like the classy tools... channel locks and a vice grips lol... that about replaces a whole tool box at Upull it

 

I did the same swap on my del sol however another suggesting I did. I used the manual u shape clamp and just drilled holes further apart and then bolted it on. Non the less you got the point accross well. Its really a straight forward swap excemp the u clamp.

 

lol not much you cant take off with those tools. but i just happen to have those on the floor in the pic.

 

honestly i thought about that but i didnt want to bend or even stretch the manual u clamp to fit the power crossmember. and i did the deed at my dads house where i dont have any power tools.

 

Good write up sir! Glad to see you got it done. Now time to road race!

 

thanks. the cars steering feels so much more solid now. especially during high speed turns

 

All right, for curiosity's sake, let's say a guy like me wants to ADD power steering. With the same loving attention to detail you have in your original post, what would be the steps I'd need to do to complete that project? What parts would I need and what parts could I reuse?

 

good question...

for starters you would need the entire power steering system. ie pump, pulley, brackets, but lets just say you have all of those parts. if we are talking just about the steering rack well then obviously you would need the power steering rack. as long as your original rack and pinion isnt damaged then you could just re-use your inner and outer tie rods along with the swivel joint connecting the steering shaft to the rack. now for the tricky part...

i personally would try using the manual rack u clamp and just opening it up a bit so that there is a way to fit both bolts in. i wouldnt recommend doing it but aside from using the uclamp for the power rack and drilling holes in for the new bolts, idk if clearance would be an issue as far as the crossmember is concerned. now that you put me on the spot i cant recall if the mount point was noticeably bigger. tomorrow i might just do a test run and try to mock up the power rack to a manual car. ill keep you posted.

 

Heres the problem with drilling new holes. Its a boxed cross member, the original holes have nuts welded the back, you can't just drill new holes and put nuts in behind unless you feel like cutting holes in your cross member.

Its actually not a big deal to swap the front subframe. I've done it before, its 4 bolts plus the bolt for the rear mount.

 

subscribed. good shi*

 

i knew there was a reason why i didnt want to drill. i was half asleep last night when i replied to deschlong. i didnt get a chance to hit up the junkyard today cause i got out of work late but on thursday i will be going and i will do a mock up and see how things line up and how much i have to stretch the u clamp.


but on a more serious note i thought about changing out the cross member however when i was under the car it looked like i had to drop the header and exhaust and disconnect and unbolt the front suspension just to remove the crossmember so i thought it was too much trouble

 

You don't have to remove the header, you do have to drop the exhaust behind it though. And you have to seperate the lower ball joints.

 

^ Awesome. Don't forget your camera!

 

yea that. but thats why i didnt want to do it because i cant just drop my exhaust or header. my header runs all the way back to about the fire wall and then i have a test pipe fitted/welded to my exhaust. it doesnt just unbolt and drop anymore

 

Please tell me theres a flex pipe welded in there...

 

no flex pipe just a flange connecting my header and catback. i can drop my header its just a pita cause i have to take off my clutch slave cylinder because i dont have a slim fan and also due to the fact i still have my ac.

 

Something is going to break, either the pipe will crack or you'll start breaking exhaust manifold studs. You need something in there with some give when the engine moves.

 

do you think a second flange really helps? because before i deleted the cat i never had flex pipe. i have an apexi gt spec catback that didnt come with flex pipe and ive never seen flex pipe on any name brand catback. ill admit i was a bit pissed when the muffler shop just welded the test pipe onto the catback but they said it was my fault for not asking for one. my last hatch had the same header/flange/catback set up but wasnt as powerful as this one is/will be.. what do u think...

 

Something is going to break sooner or later. Muffler shop really should have known better, you just don't weld an exhaust up solid like that.

 

this thread helps alot!!! my 93 civic si power steering rack is getting badd...i'm thinking about doing this too

 

just do it. this along with the power door conversion is the best thing i could have done to my hatch.it even frees up some space by the headlight lol.

 

I did this swap a few months ago... the exact same way kyosoeg6 did by using the power racks bushing. Its worked very well until recently. I installed new lower balljoints, the next day i started to hear some creaking/cracking sounds while turning. I checked it out, and when someone else turns the wheel to the left and back to the right(back and forth), i can see the rack moving around while making that nasty sound. I just ordered a manual bracket today but didn't know it doesn't line up, so i'll figure something out.

Note* when doing this swap ur rack can bind up like mine does, its just a matter of time.

also my rack was purchased remanufactured from autozone on may 14, 2011 and installed the next day. dx manual rack. 2 year warranty. $200.

 

there should b spring bolts, from the cat to catback to allow proper flex.

 

thats interesting. i periodically check my rack because for some reason i always seem to have my car in the air. still no play or loose mounting bolts. last time i had an alignment was when i did this swap and no sign of camber wear or steering wheel play. keep in mind i drive at least 500 miles a week