I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder, I bench bled the new master and then proceeded to bleed from the calipers. It took forever to get the air out of the lines! I didnt have a vaccum bleeder so its the old pump pump hold metod. Finally got all the air out of the lines and I have pedal adjustment/pushrod adjustment problems. Its a pain in the *** to manuever hands in such a tiny space. Finally start the car and the brake booster is bad! Well there goes the money spent on a used one to fix my original problem. I just paid for the same **** that I needed to fix. Ordered a new brake booster from Acura today. Delray wanted $580 and change for one! I got a wiked hookup and got a brand new one for $183! Now hopefully everything works good because I tried driving it today with the booster blocked off and it didnt brake for ****! At under 10MPH with the pedal as far as I could push I was barely slowing down. I think it stll needs a pushrod adjustment, IDK we will see. Its been 10 months since I have driven the R on the road It felt amazing to be behind the wheel but so disappointing that when you finally think its ready to go, you need to replace more. I hate brake work with a passion lol.

 

Lol you're crazy for trying to drive it without the booster hooked up. Just a question cause I'm not sure on the brake difference in a dc2 to a dc2 r, do the r's have abs too? If so your're gonna have a hell of a time bleeding the brakes once you have your parts again. Unless you guys know a way to activate the abs pump with the car idle????

 

that sux, but are you sure you have the check valve on correctly? vacuum like from manifold to booster

 

Yes, I have it connected directly from the 90° metal tube thing out of the back of the manifold and right to the brake booster. Does it matter which way the hole is for the vacuum line? To make things cleaner looking I mounted it lower down and closest to the manifold. Factory its up high and farthest away. I was told that doesnt matter?

 

no doesnt matter how you mount it(mines upside down like you said) and yes that valve does matter which way it goes

 

What valve exactly are you talking about?

 

 

Yep, I definately do not have that piece lol. Does it matter?

 

yea it does matter! It should have a arrow. Its a check valve

 

Bleeding brakes takes me like 10-20 mins max after doing a master cyl. or lines or something that requires u to replace most or all of the fluid.

-Leave the car running. Pedal effort is easier and it moves more fluid.
-Do a one man bleeder with a vacuum hose and a bottle of old fluid.

10-20 mins later, the brakes are completely bled.

 

What happens if I do not have this check valve piece and just run hose from intake to booster?

And I have never tried bleeding brakes with the car on but it might be worth a shot.

 

the check valve is used to preserve the vacuum in the booster under acceleration or other low vacuum situations like the car stalling or WOT.

U will find that on a car with the valve, u still have brake assist for the first few pumps of the pedal when the car turns off.

 

Sounds like a nice thing to have to be honest. Well I shall try to find one because new they are $17 + shipping for that little check valve. Does the GSR or LS Tegs have that too? I wonder why I don't have that, maybe I lost it in the garage lol.

 

Should be the same for pretty much any 92-00 civic and 94-01 integra. Junkyard time.

 

I actually have 2 Civic brake boosters/master cylinders in the garage and I just took a look at them... The check valve is literally in the hose, you cant see it at all but there is a small lump and its hard where it doesnt flex. Then on the outside faintly you see the writing "to engine ->" to make sure its facing the correct way. Well I think the line will work but I rather get the Integra check valve where it is external so I can use my own rubber lines since the stock hose is like a mile long of twist and turns lol. I doubt that is the problem all together because like you said its for WOT or when there is not vacuum and at idle or low RPM I wouldn't brake you just hear the pshhh sound like air rushing (bad seals in the booster).

 

there's actually tons of vacuum at idle. Or anytime the throttle plate is close to being shut. The more you open the throttle, the more atmospheric pressure enters the manifold.