Any help would be greatly apreciated! I just did the full manifold swap from a CRX Si and It's giving me hell! I've more than triple checked all of my wiring, no vacuum leaks, replaced the DX dizzy with an Si one, but it idles rough, almost like it's misfiring, and runs EXTREMLY rich (my freind lit my exhaust fumes on fire with his cigarette). If anyone has any idea what it could be, please help! I've replaced the rotor and cap in the dizzy, and made sure that it's all timed correctly. could a bad TPS cause all of this? I've read than sometimes they break or go bad on engines/ manifolds that have been moved around a lot. any help would be great! thanks in advance!

 

bump.

 

When you replaced the dizzy did you center it? If it's tilted too far forwards or backwards that could possibly advance or retard the timing & make it run a little weird. Also, do you have the extra wire from each fuel injectors wired to the resistor box? I'm sure you do but that's just all I can think of.

 

honestly if your that rich its gotta be something to do with the fuel injectors. Timing being off wouldn't cause you to run full rich. make sure you wired it properly. Also make sure your injectors are working properly as well

 

Did you hook up the CPS wires in the correct order?

 

Considering doing this to my hatch but Im very hesitant. Just doesnt seem like two more injectors would make that much of a difference.

 

the only reason I will be doing this swap is to add a vtec head at the same time. Does anyone know the power difference betweed dual and multi point injection?

 

It can be confusing. I mixed up 2 wires when I did the swap. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_iTPlMVmSM This is what is sounded like. Are you getting a CEL? If it is misfiring, have you checked your plug and plug wires?

 

I'd like to know this as well. I don't care about peak but a side by side dyno would be killer. Ya right.

 

I think a guy did one and it was like a 15-20whp difference or something like that. But check to make sure you have your CPS wires in the right way. It'll idle like **** and run rich if you mixed them up.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, and sorry I haven't been replying my sisters wedding was yesterday :p but it's not as rough as the video FSRslug posted, but it is closer to that. I'm going to completly redo all of the wiring later on today and see if that helps, maybe I'm not gettinga good connection or something. and yes, CEL is on, code 4 which is CPS if I'm not mistaken. It runs and will stay cranked, but after it warms up, if you cut it off and restart it, it idles fine (or normal for how bad it is) and then jumps to just under 2K RPMs and dies. I'm completly baffled. Like I said, I'll redo the wiring and if that doesn't fix it, check the injectors. Oh, and yes, I did do the resistor box wire-in. Thanks again!

 

So I've spent most of the afternoon completly redoing the wiring and got everything done to the T. I double checked everything, hooked the ECU back up, hooked the battery back up and... car barely startred. It's sputtering below 500 RPM's and now I have another CEL: 5, which is MAP sensor. wtf. I didn't even mess with that! Could the engine be running so rough that It's causing the MAP sensor to trip?

 

Are your plugs connected correctly? I believe there are 2 of the same type of plug. One is green, one is white. I think one is the TPS, not sure what the other one is. I know that is they are mixed up, it will idle low and bog down.

Code 5 is a mechanical issue with the MAP sensor system. Check all the hoses, make sure they are connected and no holes or tears.

 

well it did end up being plugs... spark plugs. One of those simple things I overlooked. I replaced my old blown out ones with NGK's and it idles like a champ. Still cuts off, but idles right. and still has code 4 and five. I can swap a few of the plugs onthe mani around, but I thinkthey're right... I'm not sure though, do you by chance know which wire colors go where? And as for the MAP, I'll check out all of the hosesup close tomorrow when I can feel myfingers again lol thanks for the feedback!

 

Its already been said but its your dist wires. They are obviously wrong if your throwing codes.

 

I don't know where you got your instructions, but from what I have read you need to switch the tps wires when doing a mpfi swap. I hope it is that easy to fix your problem.

John

 

Yes, TPS wires need to be switch and you need to make sure that you have your CPS wires hooked up correctly in the right place.

 

I swaped the TPS wires, but I'm not 100% sure that the sensor itself is calibrated. The CPS is wired correctly, I'm 100% sure of that as I followed the wires directly to the ECU and triple checked all of those connections. My theory as of now is that maybe the TPS not being right is making it idle strangly and iregularly, tricking the ECU into thinking that there's something else wrong. Like in the medical world, symptoms of one thing can be caused by another. But it's just a theory. Does anyone know how to calibrate a TPS? and also if the wiring is wrong on the dizzy, does anyone have a wire diagram that tells me what wire connects to what?

 

Update! one of the new plugs was faulty, replaced it and CEl code 5 went away still throwing code 4 though.

 

And now I'm leaking coolant. Screw this, I've been looking for a reason to do a K swap. RyWire harness and HaSport mounts here I come...

 

Are the wires at C1 and C2 correct? What color wires do you have coming from the dizzy to those ECU pins?

 

it's the crank positioning sensor, not cylinder, so it's B10 and B12 that's being a Bitch. THe wires on the dizzy are bleached due to unknown reasons, but you can still tell the color. It's the orange and white wire that seems to be giving me hell. they're connected right and well. The write up I used was more than ****ing useless. It had alllll wrong info and I had B14 i believe it was (alternator) hooked to the dizzy that was suposed to be the orange wire. I fried didn't I? I didn't have the alternator hooked up at all. Is there any way to test it? I'm really starting to lose hope with this swap, it's been like month and I still can't get it. I did fix the loose coolant hose though, and that fixed the leak.

 

It is probably easiest to just go to hondahookup and download the manual. It has a procedure to test the crank sensor.

 

As I said before. Codes for the sensors in the distributor means its the wiring for the distributor. Or possibly the distributor itself. Do you know for sure that you have a good working distributor?

btw the TPS is easy to calibrate. You just take a multimeter and measure the voltage with the key on engine off. There are 3 wires. One is a ground. Another is the 5V from the computer. Then the third is the sensor output. It reads from around 0.5v-4.5v varying with throttle position. If its outside this range you can loosen the screws and adjust it so its within range.

 

The guy who sold me the dizzy was reputible guy and it had a new cap and rotor in it. I've tried all sorts of variations with the wires on the dizzy and it's still throwing that one code. could my ECU be bad? And thanks JeffBro for the TPS calibration!