Okay I have been reading and searching the forums about this and I'm really on the fence about how I should build my B18C1 for turbo.

My goals: Solid 330whp Daily Driver 8-12psi and still maintain decent MPG.

I hear that the stock B18C1 will handle 300hp all day long on a good tune with no problems. I plan on pulling my engine and rebuilding it from top to bottom. So
A: Do I just rebuild the engine using all stock Honda parts? Or
B: Build it with better pistons rods ect ect?

And if I do use all factory parts, will they be pushed to there limits with my goals?

 

well why are you rebuilding it ? is something blown or your just doing it to freshen it up .. either way while your in there do pistons and rods but if the motors good leave it you can make that power or a stock motor .. make sure you use arp head studs and if your doing the bottom end arp rod bolts

 

Well to be honest my car has 238,000 on the clock, she runs great, but I just figured the engine wouldn't last very long.

 

im actually tryin to do the same thing but i go t a lsvtec

 

Do a compression and leak down test. Has it had the timing belt/ tensioner/ oil pump / water pump changed? If so and it tests good I would roll with it and find another block to build up for later. My LS has 167k on it and takes 10psi from an SC34 no problem. Building an LS/Vtec for the future. If you build you might as well get forged internals.

 

you should look into building it with all factory parts, im not to sure how im going to build mine eventually, but look into the best piston/rod combo from the b series engines, and upgrade your valvetrain to the best intake/exhaust spring combo but def upgrade retainers and rod bolts at least aftermarket, im not sure what the best combos there are to build a pure honda beast but this i the route i am going to go when i decide to, but for now my gsr is bone stock from valve cover to oil pan, stock headbolts and im running 9psi on an sc61 putting 300whp down and i have no issues

 

The mileage isn't really the issue, but rather the condition of the internals is the determinant. Run a compression test and a leakdown on it to tell its condition. These tests will tell you the health of your engine and whether or not you need to rebuild it. Furthermore, if you rebuild it, go with aftermarket parts....but that is a topic of another time.

 

330 is pretty feasible on stock internals. I'm at 315 with stock internals in my b18c1 and have no issues. If you plan to open that engine up at all, you might as well build it for boost and crank more psi and more hp out with your turbo build. It just seems like a waste of time and money to rebuild the engine with all factory parts.

 

Rebuild with forged internals. youre spending the time ripping it apart, might as well build it with stronger parts if that works out for your wallet.

You can use oem honda rod bearings if you want though. Dont forget ARP head studs.

 

Really, damn! what size injectors, fuel pump and tune are you using?

 

Okay I will try to do that in the next week or so.

 

Yeah I guess that makes sense if I plan on ripping into my current motor, Gosh...... I wish I had another B18C1 long block that I can build on the side, while I'm running on my current one.

 

[QUOTE=CaliforniaDad;44000001]Really, damn! what size injectors, fuel pump and tune are you using?[/QUOTE

I know this wasnt directed to me, but 300+whp is easy to get out of a boosted gsr, i am using a walbro 255 fuel pump, and only rc 440 injectors tuned on hondata s300 easily putting 300 down on a safe tune, the bottom end of a gsr is a strong motor, and honda parts are very strong, look into using all honda parts if you want to build a legit honda motor with bragging rights, but if you decide to go aftermarket it will be cheaper and easier, but just another basic built motor

 

[QUOTE=skuded;44000777]Thats pretty good numbers on 440cc injectors isnt it? I was looking as RC's injector size HP calc. and it recomends a 660cc injector for 330HP @ 60% duty cycle. if i do end up installing my turbo kit on my stock B18C1, my bare minimums would be what, injectors, fuel pump, tune and........what else?

 

sup buddy

I have a EG with a gsr puttin down 328hp 247tq, got dyno sheet here. im only on 9psi. and get bout 27mpg daily and if im messin around obviously alot less. message me if u want info..

maza

 

PM sent

 

On a side note: What's the biggest junkyard injectors I can use in my GSR when I go FI, is it still the 86-90 Mazda RX-7's @ I think 550cc? Or is that old school stuff?

 

[QUOTE=CaliforniaDad;44000920]yes bare minimum would be injectors, fuel pump, and a tuning system with a good tune, also if you looking to put 330 down you should try and go ahead and do headstuds, but its not absolutly necessary untill you boost over around 11-12lbs however it would be safer to do them no matter what boost you will be using

 

[QUOTE=skuded;44014548]Yeah i can do head studs, its really not that hard to install.

 

Okay i did a compression test today and this is what I came up with

Cyl#1 (265)
Cyl#2 (266)
Cyl#3 (264)
Cyl#4 (266)

Is that low? Whats normal?

 

[QUOTE=skuded;44000777]using this logic really doesnt get you anywhere.

Factory honda motors were never intended to make the type of power people are making now, which is why using most stock honda parts, namely internals is a crap shoot.

Sure, itll be another basic built motor, but these basic built motors will handle the power more reliably than a stock honda motor.

Unless youre absolutely ballin out of your ears, save some cash, have some patience, and purchase forged internals. Itll save you time, money, and headaches, and i dont know about you but my time is money, so really, it will save you Money X2, and headaches.

Sure youll be able to have bragging rights boosting the stock motor, but by chance something happens and you throw a rod or melt a piston, bragging rights doesnt call your tow truck or pay for the damages.

 

^x2

 

pretty straight foward build you are looking at.

pistons and rods of aftermarket nature, arp headstuds and an aftermarket clutch. everything else can be oem parts as if you were rebuilding a stock engine.


those 260psi #s actually seem high (but very consistant) for a stock gsr motor. was it ever rebuilt with higher compression pistons? if not you have a ton of carbon buildup

 

as far as I know it has never been rebuilt, might be the carbon buildup because i'm pushing 238,000 miles on it.

 

i would throw a kit on it and have it tuned with supporting fuel mods... make 350 call it a day