So a while back i picked up a new engine and trans for my DB8, paid 3200 for the lot.

what i got was
LSD ITR TRANS
brand new comp clutch stage 5 clutch kit.
B18cR jdm
12:1 flat top compression wiesco pistons
eagle h beam forged rods
acl race bearins
arp head studs
Stock ITR head with crane stage 3 cams. (gonna break the engine in on these and then get some skunk tuner stage 1's)
skunk2 IM Brand new In box.
new seals and gaskets all around , timing belt side done also.

what i got so far. is this now

B18cR jdm, itr lsd trans, comp stage 5 clutch
12:1 flat top compression wiesco pistons
eagle h beam forged rods
acl race bearins
arp head studs
Stock ITR head with crane stage 3 cams. (gonna break the engine in on these and then get some skunk tuner stage 1's)
skunk2 IM
68mm TB
PWJDM carbon kevlar whale dick intake with velocity stack
PWJDM thermal intake manifold gasket.
RMF replica 4-1 HEADER
2.5" test Pipe
2.5 inch catback N1 style exhaust
Hondata s300
B and R lines complete stock PVC delete/breather box kit
CTR N1 crank pully, AC and PS delete..
Moroso Oil pan..
hasport soft style bushing engine mounts for an integra.
custom milled valve cover.

i ll get pics up when i get over to the house to finish my valve cover.

Let me know what you think, i am shooting for the big 200 mark, but realistically i will be happy with 180-190 whp up here in colorado.

I am hope to break 300 whp on the zex wet kit i ordered, whats the biggest shot i can run safely with this set up..? I was thinking a 150 at the most, seeing as how the bottom end is forged and i will be tuning for the spray.

thanks for looking
Fresh after paint, valve cover is getting shaved, those timing covers are getting freshened up. also.

Type R head code.

Jdm Type R block code.

Type R LSD trans

 

Get rid of the whale dick intake and get a cold air that has some more length to it. Also Id get rid of the CTR pulley and run a regular pulley that has the damper built into it.
I would have kept the OEM intake manifold instead of a Skunk2 myself. Perhaps get it cut and ported.
See what kinda power that gets you. You might make it with the cams you have now.
BTW- you gotta a damn good deal it sounds!
Definately wanna put some money aside for tuning. Some engine tuning software will let you add additional fuel through your primary injectors when your spraying so theres no need for a true "wet" kit. Just run a dry kit and compensate for fuel with the (larger than stock)injectors.

 

Thanks for the advice.
Not gonna run a CIA, i live in colorado, with ****ed up roads and puddling water everywhere, the weather is so inconsistent where i live. I have to run a short ram.

I havent ordered the pulley quite yet, i just figured if its from honda then it aparently has to work with the engine, and it is a 8lb lighter difference.

The Skunk2 IM id the ltest version and is brand new, i didnt pay anything extra for it, they engine didnt have the stock IM.

I will be running Hondata s300 and the shop i use for tuning and who built the engine recommended the wet or the dry kit.

thanks for the comments i will def keep those in mind.

 

what pulley would you recommend....? that isnt a arm and a leg. I still have alot of body work to do, and paint isnt cheap to have done professionally.lol

do you think my horsepower goals are realistic..?

 

From what I understand the true " CTR N1" pulley is solid with no elastomer ring to help dampen crankshaft oscillations/vibrations/harmonics.

Id run a stock ITR/GSR pulley that has this rubber ring to help with engine harmonics. The N1 pulley was designed for a very specific engine and type of racing. I wouldnt use it for anything other than what it was intended for. Lots of CTR N1 pulley horror stories on HT if you look around...

The HP goals are definately realistic IMO.

 

nice, and thanks, i will hold off on the pulley then. think i could lathe my AC and PS portion of my ITR pulley off...? and have it balanced..? would that still work.

i am al for the harmonics, i would hate to mess those perty acl's up..

 

I hear of people machining off the extra PS/AC ribs all the time with no problems. I dont think you would even need to re-balance it, but it would be good to check with several reliable people anyways...

 

yeah for sures will have to do that. the lighter that crank assembly is, the more cheap ponies can be squeezed out of it..

 

Pictures of the engine how it sat after getting painted are up.