My 1990 accord currently has adjustable coil overs with a 450 spring rate, rear upper tie bar, energy suspention sway bar links and 205/50R16's. Would adding a frount upper tie bar give me slite increase in handling or not at all?

 

yes you could stiffen up the front.

 

ok is there anything else i could do like stiffer tie rod ends ro sway bar bussing kit or they wont really make a difference?

 

bushing kits will help tighten up the old worn out stuff.

 

An upper tie bar? I have no idea what that is......

Generally speaking
- Sway bars (ST is popular because it's front and rear)
- Bushings
- General maintenance (15 yr old bushings/parts aren't as good as new anymore)
- Wheels/tires (wider/stickier)
- Strut bars (I'm guessing this is what you're calling a tie bar? Cusco or FFC)

Rear tie bar is useless due to the massive sub-frame we have.
The rear sway will help with neutralizing the car if you replace just it. (ST or Progress)
The front sway will help with body roll but keep the car prone to understeer. (ST or stock)
Rear strut bar isn't going to hurt, I recommend the Cusco AS-type (no knockoffs!)
Front strut bar won't hurt either, either Cusco AS or FFC
Wider wheels/tires will help with grip (Think I had 16x7 +45? with 215/45/16?)
Replacing all the bushings with polyurethane ones will help with handling (Energy Suspension)
Front traction bar replaces the front cross-member and helps with wheel hop (ESP traction bar)
Struts/Coilovers/Shocks/Springs/etc will help with handling/looks/etc - I was a fan of GC and Koni Yellows, please don't slam your car though

 

my car is currently slammed with coilovers on 205/50/16r's, I have a rear upper strut bar or what ever you may technically call the thing. I will get bushing kit for the sway bar since i already have the engergy sway bar link kit. But you think the front upper strut bar is not worth purchasing and what will help to decrease wheel hop?

 

Get an LSD-equipped tranny out of a Prelude. My MP1A auto is excellent; a straight bolt-on and cost $415 used.

Personally, I'm going with ESP for all of my chassis stiffening. Their parts are all of one-piece design, and use square tubing instead of the typical circular style. Both of those add up to less flex.

- Polyurethane engine mounts (actually getting these soon for an H-swap!)
- Traction bar (aka front cross member) w/ torque strut
- Front & rear upper and lower strut bars

These guys are excellent supporters of the CB crowd
http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net

 

Slammed doesn't equal handling.

I 'slammed' my Accord when I first had it, then raised it up to around 5" of clearance all the way around. Handled much better because......you get actual suspension travel!

For the bushings, I'm not referring to just the sway bar, there are a TON of old rubber bushings that are aged on your car that you can replace. ES sells a full front kit for the Accord.

And as mentioned, a traction bar would decrease wheel hop, however running stock/close to stock, I don't really see you requiring this. I had an H22A in my Accord and did not have issues at AutoX.

 

What is an upper tie bar?????

 

Probably the one that goes from drivers to passengers side in the top of the engine compartment like the integras have.

There is a place, name with tuning in it or something like that, that sells a set of suspension parts that you add onto your suspension, I just never got around to asking if anyone has ever tried them out.

 

"Tie bar" is just another word for "strut bar". It connects the two shocks at either end of the vehicle. They can bolt down at anywhere from two to four points (probably more, but that's really unheard of outside of a roll cage).

Front:


Rear:

 

front upper strut bar

 

I know what it is. Drive a late model and you will not need one!

 

Just figured I'd point out that there are more than a few brand new 2011 cars with factory strut bars.......

The new 5.0 Mustang is just one of those.

 

True Im going to get the upper strut bar and the sway bar bushing kit for now.