just wondering if anyone here is driving around with a liquid cooled turbo,

for some odd reason i noticed with my car and a few friends cars that have liquid cooled ball bearing turbos that the temp goes very very high. is this normal ? im talking about 1/4 over half but with my gt37 none liquid cooled i would get only 1/4 on the temp.

on my h22 the feed and return are right off the top of the thermostat housing.

Am i doing something wrong?

i have a T04Z car is at 500whp give or take on pump gas

 

thread should start with water cooled all of them have liquid oil in them.

 

look at all the stock turbo cars most of the are water cooled and it works fine

 

Add an oil cooler.

 

oil temp or water temp u mean?

i have gt35r and the oil temp stays between 200-225...
using a type r oil pump, moroso 5.5qt tank

water temp from 160-190...
meziere water pump, and pulling coolant off bottom of rad back into front of block

 

When I had a water cooled daily driver, It did operate warmer on the really hot days.... but when the temperature was fine, the car was at normal temp..

 

You can also T into the small hoses around the back of the block by the intake for the feed and T into the big radiator hose for the return.

I did that back in the day.

 

I have a T04ZR on my H22 as well. No H20 hookups. No problems.

185-200 degrees water temp depending on weather. Puller fan 1600 cfm half dual core radiator with no shroud.


How you like it (The To4Zr)??? Curious dont see too many people running them. Mines a mean **** man. 17 PSI 520 on pump. Going for 700 this weekend, was making 650.

H20 hookups are more for apps that the turbo is going to be under load ALOT (Diesel or road course stuff). Short sprints?

Meh... Ive never ever heard anyone havoing issues due to not running the water hookups. In fasct I HAVE heard of people with questionable cooling setups having issues with them hooked up... In DD situations.

 

I ran mine off the heater core lines and have never had a problem. But now I'm not running one so.......

 

sorry guys i should have been clear at the begining i mean liquid coolant cooled, im going to try blocking it off for next year and see what happens.

 

I have always ran my coolant lines to my turbo

 

i could see why the lines might cause an increase in temp but if the cooling system is up to par there shouldnt be a problem keeping ECTs in check. what is the rest of your cooling setup? do you have a good fan w/ shroud?

 

i tried everything i even did a leak down test , i tried to swap rads, i tried switching from coolant to water and water wetter, i tried a new rad, i bleed the crap out of my system even on a ramp and with one of those over flows so there was always coolant at a higher point vs the motor. i even opened up the thermostat and same issue.

I would drive the car around and its fine until i hit about 30min of driving in the city,
the car was even fine on the dyno but like i said when i drive her around bam the temp starts to climb up and up and up

 

I also have had this problem. I have a 1995 Acura Integra. It has a LS Vtec (wiseco Pistons, Rods, ect). I have a GT3076 on it with a Pfab manifold. The car is at 355whp.

When driving in the city nothing is wrong the ect's stay between 180 and 200. but once i get on the freeway and i stay at a constent RPM like 4000 - 4500 for 30 mins the temp goes up to as high as 230 but it will not overheat it just gets hot and within mins of getting off the freeway it is back to normal.

I have a 3 core Cxracing radiator with a 1600 cfm fan with shroud, a 60 water 40 coolent mix. the motor is in great shape (good leakdown, good compression, and cooling system holds good pressure.) the first line from the turbo comes out of the front of the block where the factory 19mm plug was. the second line is teed to the heater hose from the side of the head.

so is there anything i should change to fix my problem?

 

exactly that happens on the freeway too at a 4000rpm for a while bam the temp jumps to thesame numbers as yours, i am so confused

 

Do you have a wideband O2 on the car? only reason I ask is that i see most tuners do not street tune cars cruising at 4000rpm+.

 

you didnt mention anything about the fan and shroud setup.

try pulling the bumper off and see what happens. if temps stay in check w/ no bumper you can be sure you have an airflow problem. my car has the same problem but then i added a spal 13" w/ t1 shroud and the problem went away.

a good fan AND shroud can counter-act the FMIC blocking the grill and rad.

 

I had to switch to a full size dual core mishimoto radiator and a SPAL 13" fan to solve all my problems. Some of the best money I spent though...

 

i was having serious overheating issues, went from a 800 cfm fan to a 1,600 cfm, and built a shroud, temps dropped 20 degrees.

once everything gets heat soaked, its hard to get the heat out of it with a small fan, also try and get more airflow in general into and out of your engine bay, also helped my problem

 

i have two fans on my car one on the outside pushing and one on the enginebay side with shroud pulling

 

Are you sure u bleed it good tony. A lot of guys have a hard time bleeding h2b's because of the angle the motor is on. The back coolant tube is higher than the rad