Hello All,

I did do a good search and came up with different answers in each thread I looked at. For those of you that have actually swapped a B-series oil pan before I'd like to know whether you used any liquid gasket.

Reading my Helms on Section 7-28, steps 12 and 13 explain how to install the pan. Step 12 however I am not sure if it is needed. It says to apply liquid gasket to the corners between the block before installing the the rubber gasket and pan, but I read a lot of threads saying not to put and liquid gasket anywhere between the block and the gasket...

So for sure after I pull the pan, I will clean the block surface with a towel to get any grit off, but still not sure about putting liquid gasket between the block and the rubber gasket. I guess I might be just worrying too much, but I just want to do it right. Last thing I want is to bolt up the header and then find out I have a leak.

 

I replaced the oil pan gasket on my gsr a few years back. I did not use liquid gasket, only the factory rubber gasket and torqued it down to spec.
It never leaked after that, so I would say you could definitely get by without it

 

Hmmm actually now that I look at it. The liquid gasket is there to seal a seam where parts are bolted onto the block. So the old liquid gasket should be removed and replaced in those sections specified in the Helms.

 

I use honda-bond in the corners and never have an issue

 

using hondabond on corners as said and removing all old gasket sealer is a must, also making sure to torque to spec in specific order is the key

 

^agreed...this will ensure you do it right the first time, and not waste time to redo it when it leaks

 

I use a very thin coating of HondaBond around the entire perimeter of the oil pan flange/gasket interface.

That said, the torque sequence of the oil pan fasteners has a bigger impact on the seal quality than the use of any liquid gasket.

I'm a firm believer in the Moroso oil pan stud kit. Only dealing with studs creates a more uniform seal. I've assembled a few motors now with this setup, and they all sealed well.

 

Suppose to apply Hondabond in a 1/2" section of the mating flange where the oil pump mates to the block.

The key to preventing another leak is to make sure that the pan flange and block flange is completely oil free, otherwise the gasket will squirm and be squished out when you torque down the oil pan.

 

yup, the honda/acura service manual (the big book) states that you should dab some liquid gasket on the block before installing the new pan.

 

I love Hondabond! I use that stuff for everything.

 

Yes, just on the joints though, not the whole seating surface. It's annoying having to remove all that ultra gray/hondabond from an entire pan...

 

bingo

also, use a 1/4" ratchet. a 3/8" is going to give you more torque than you need unless you really know what you're feeling for

 

thanks dood, i didn't clarify

but yes, dab it on (if i recall it's only 4 spots and it's not on the corners) and don't go nuts with it

 

not totally sure about hondabond aka the right stuff import version. i've never used it, or seen it on jdm engines i've pulled apart but always use it on small blocks when those gaskets go in. i guess however you do it, if it doesn't leak you're golden

 

I've seen it on the pans I've pulled off, either in the right spots, or everywhere.. everywhere is bad.. the 4 proper spots is good. It likely wouldn't leak without it, but it's annoying enough to deal with so just do it right.

Oh, and just use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts, better than guessing with a 1/4" ratchet.

 

Having a helluva time finding an inch/lbs torque wrench. I was told that my big torque wrench likely wasn't accurate enough in the low ranges and I'd overtighten.

 

Craftsman, Harbor Freight, Snap On, MAC, MATCO, etc all make them..

 

you can't use anything but a 1/4" torque wrench on the gasket. the larger ones just don't work. if you want to spend $100 on a decent one it would put everything to spec. it may be smart if you don't know what you're feeling for. so far i've never used one and never had a leak as long as i made sure everything was really clean. the one leak i did get was from an oily pan. the gasket squeezed out when i put it down.

 

My 1/4" snap-on won't work Doesn't go to a high enough torque setting. I use my 3/8". The size of the ratchet drive doesn't matter, the torque range does. If it's within the range of your wrench, you're fine, whether it's a 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" drive.

 

Agreed, I use a digital Snap-on torque wrench for my entire motor. It works just fine for the oil pan and is a 3/8" drive.

 

Yes, but only on the four corner seams - the ones that are created with the main oil seal installed and the oil pump.

 

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