Ok so im going to order my manifold and downpipe tomorrow off of spoolin performance. My wallet is stuck on the difference between 400$ for the 3" downpipe or the 200$ 2.5"

For a 200$ difference how bad can 2.5 really be? lol
I know 3" is what everyone is going to say but is there any proof out there. like dyno sheets of the same setup car with both downpipes??

ive looked and couldnt find any solid evidence.

If the hp is going to be a big difference like 50hp then i see the 200$ worth it but if its only like 10-15hp then i will just save my money

 

well i think about it this way you will probably thank yourself later buy the right one the first time instead of buying the wrong one now. not saying its bad but if its going to buy something you want to change later why even buy it. if it strictly the price there are alot of other companies that have quaility parts and are a bit cheaper like im sure JDL auto desighn might be able to hook you up or look though the FI for sale thread.

will it make that much of a diffrence maybe? but we both know you will be happier with the 3'' take you time look around theres deals to be made IMO. good luck!

 

I would def go with the 3" if there is anyway to scrape together the extra 200 bux...but if not then I have seen plenty of people make great power with 2.5" exhaust. Some 2.5" setups have suprised the hell out of me.

 

do i need the flex pipe? its 65$ more just for the 3" flex

 

Flex pipe is a great idea and worth the extra bucks. Stop being cheap.. do it right, or you'll regret it later

 

i would go with the 3 inch that way when and if you want to upgrade in power you wont have to upgrade. i see people running 3 inch exhaust in most setups from about 250whp-600ishwhp. im not exactly sure what the theoretical horsepower limit would be on a 2.5 but i cant imagine it being too high. and as far as the flexpipe yes. unless you have solid steel mounts and your motor isnt going to move at all, otherwise you are going to rip your exhaust apart when your motor moves on accel and decel. being cheap is going to cost you more money in the long run. do it once,do it right

 

max power for 2.5 dp is 450-500 dependin on your setup. bigger is better

 

does anyone have proof of the difference?
Im not being cheap im being broke.
There is no movement thanks to my hasport motor mounts. I was watching the motor on the dyno and it didn't move an inch the whole time during every pull

The motor is out of the car right now and I figured now would be a good time to upgrade the manifold and downpipe. once everything goes back in im expecting at least 450+hp


Just read that every .5 supports 100whp

so 2.5" is good up to 500hp

That sounds believable.

 

just cuz the motor didnt move during pulls doesnt mean it doesnt move. when the motor rocks, is in between gears, usually when letting off the gas or pressing the clutch it. i went with a 75$ 3" ebay downpipe with flexpipe and its working just fine. you will probably hvae to modify it though.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-T3-...ht_3828wt_1161

something like this? I was looking at that too and just having my friend modify to fit. its 2.5 inlet and outlet tho?

 

3" would help with spool too.

 

i want 3" but the problem is that my hours got cut bad at my job so im not making anywhere close to what i use to make. so things are getting real tight

 

i wouldnt get that pipe. too cheap. the catback flange on that is not your standard 3 bolt collector, and you may have issues finding an exhaust to fit it. you could also try taking it to a local shop for a custom 3". just buy the flanges you need from egay, take it to the shop and let them bend you one.

i was quoted just shy of 200$ for a custom one from a local performance shop.

 

Do 3". Otherwise you'll always wonder "what if". And don't bother buying turbo parts when you're not in good financial shape.

 

sounds like your buddy has a welder? why not buy a $30 3" u bend and make a downpipe yourself. You'd be into it $60 with flanges, $80 if you chose Stainless.

 

well its got to be a/c compatible and my friend isnt going to be free. i could probably get the 3" from my friend for the same price as 2.5

 

maybe you can ask if you can get the downpipe in mild steel instead of SS. it will save you a good bit of money. just get the dp painted with high temp and it will last a long time

 

painting it with high temp paint will make it last longer??

rust protection i would guess

 

Just make it yourself. < $100 in materials, a few hours of your time

 

I do wanna learn how to weld.

just ordered everything
manifold with tial44 flange and dump tube
3"downpipe stainless with flex pipe
3week turn around with 80$ shipping

pretty good price overall imo

 

Bottom line is back pressure is mucho bad in terms of power and efficiency. Also have to consider what size turbo your running and Less back pressure = more power at the same or less boost levels. Just how much will more will be dependent on system set-up. ie. the difference may not be as noticeable with a gt28r as with a 6262. In both cases it will be an advantage, however.

 

Cool! Did you get the Quick4 AC manifold? I see your running AC and P/S thats why I ask.

 

yup h22 quick for ac.

looking to make 500hp with a/c and p/s

I should have everything up and running and a re-tune at the end of novemeber

 

I got the manifold and downpipe last week and the wastegate didnt fit with the alternator. I had to send it back. The welder is going to fix it for free and paid for shipping so its all good. Its a very nice manifold. very good quality. A++ cant wait to get it back.

 

Go piece together the price of quality parts to put together this combo, its more then a hundred dollars

I don't care what mounts you have, if your hooking it up to a full exhaust, get a flex pipe or its gonna crack. Expecting 450hp, 2.5 is out of the question. I saw you already got the 3 , you won't be disappointed.