How hard are these things to bleed properly.
I have a stock master cyl and I have a good amount of pedal right now, but the clutch wont disengage. How much will it need to be bled before I will be able to disengage? Or should I be thinking mechanical?

Anyone with experience in the tilton, let me know.

thanks`

 

Tilton told me u have to use the 3/4 master when u are using the hydro bearing. Hope this helps...

 

They're very easy to bleed. What clutch are you using?

 

the tilton or equiv. 3/4 master is required, tried this already with a stock master, didn't push enough volume to create pressure. However with the 3/4 master they're quite easy to bleed.

 

tony, Im running the tilton clutch

 

thats what I was thinking, needed to upgrade the master to a Wilwood or the Tilton.


I think a friend of mine said they had the tilton hydraulic bearing working with the stock master. Ill have to check! The stock master thats on it is relatively new.

 

What about the 1" master that came w/ the auto integra, will that work? I"m thinking about getting the Tilton hydraulic release bearing myself and just wondering if I still need to replace my master thanks in advance.

 

I didn't know the automatics have a clutch master cylinder..... correct me if I'm wrong.

 

will this work with a CC twinplate

 

most integ's are 15/16th and larger MC's IIRC, I have an ABS 1" on my car guessing it will be enough?

 

The topic is regarding the clutch master and the tilton bearing, not the brake master.

 

Never mind what I said. I was thinking of the brake master that are 1" diameter silly me lol.

 

back on topic

 

I installed this Kit on my car i Have the competition twin disc. I am using the Tilton CLUTCH master cylinder which is 7/8's i believe and the hardest part is getting the fittings onto the god damn -3 lines. I assembled everything and went to go bleed the clutch and the bleeder screw fell right off the line haha, at least the lines and bearing are accessible when the trans is in the car. But as far as bleeding it, it took a very short amount of time to get it bled properly to the point where it was engaging properly. IF you guys need/ want any pics pm me and ill take some pics and send them to whoever needs them. It can be a little confusing at first on how to set it up properly(or at least it was to me, i just couldn't figure out how i had to use 1 line and split it properly into 2, lol)

 

Do you rember the part num. i want to do it to my cc twin.

 

 

i use the 5/8 master from wilwood. not one problem with it. we used the 3/4 master and had a nightmare removing the trans 2 times before i put a 5/8 on there and was done with it. clutch works great/

 

if you dont mind me asking, what kind of problems were you having with the 3/4 that by going to the 5/8 fixed it?

 

so I really should get rid of the stock master eh?

 

Yes please pm sent.

 

hopefully this isn't too off topic but what is the main benefit/reason for the tilton release bearing kit? does it work with any twin disc? i have a cable actuated hydro tranny and am looking to go hydro activated twin in the future.

 

pushing the seal out of the tilton. even with a pedal stop, we just had too many problems finding the sweet spot for the clutch. we were pushing the seal out of the tilton because the 3/4 master was too much volume for the stock pedal travel.

 

Benny I just wrote you two long messages on this and somehow deleted them both so just hit me up on msn and I'll give you some insight to what I had to do with mine.

 

guess it only works on a crx, we had no problem making it work. if u stay up for 3 days straight it will work fine, just watch the quarter windows, they might blow out

 

ok, I have the part numbers of the Tilton stuff I need.

Anyone know the best place to order it from? OR should I go right to Tilton?
75-750u
72-001