ok, i have a b20 i just pulled out of a crv and a gsr with ls internals. well, i'm obviously gonna put my gsr head on the b20 block and do a b20-vtec setup. now i'll still have brand new rod bearings/ piston rings/ gaskets/ etc... so i'm wanting to know if i can stick the b20 head on the gsr block so i have a spare complete motor incase mine blows or to sell?

i think i read somewhere about drilling and tapping the oil hole in the block. i don't want to do this because in the future a gsr head might be put back on the gsr block.

i'm also wondering if i'll lose power with this combination. i'm making 11.22 compression now with the gsr, ls crank+rods usdm type r pistons.

if i do the b20 block the way it sits, i'll only be 10.20 compression

 

compression will be lower, but the increase in displacement will yield more torque.
throw some higher comp pistons in, i guess

 

why run the poor mans stroker in the gsr block and take away the vtec head.. the gsr block if set up right with the ls internals will make more power than that b20v will..

plus the girdle on the crank in the gsr block allows safe higher revs than the b20 block..

 

i would just buy the rsmachine itr replica pistons for the b20 , and arp rod bolts and call it a day with the gsr head

 

interesting idea, id be curious to know if its a reasonably doable job too

 

yea i was gonna say..

 

i've decided to stay with the gsr block with ls internals. and i guess just keep the b20 for a spare motor. i might pull it apart put some high compression pistons in it and call it a day. anyone know if the gsr girdle will fit the ls block and ls crank caps will fit the gsr block?

 

now you're thinking logically.
girdle works on ls. pretty sure the main caps do too

 

i am pretty sure the girdle only fits the gsr block, or else there would be no need to run the poor mans stroker like most used to do. If that were the case, there would be no need for a gsr block, and people would just source the girdle and slap it in a LS block and LSV it.

in my opinion stick with something that was designed by the engineers to handle more power, and handle the vtec, there is a reason alot of LSV's go to **** quick. for one alot of people dont build them right, down spend the little amount of money where needed, like arp rod bolts, and crank bolts.

my brother is gonna be running 500 whp on a b20v.. but thats also gonna be e85 and built with all the proper things in mind.

 

people do slap it in for ls-v: gsr girdle, windage tray, pick up, pan and main bolts. it is essentially a gsr block. less the piston coolers

 

so basically if you have the gsr block you should basically stick with the gsr block.. lol

 

^^i know i certainly would

 

^^ I agree too no reason to change a perfectly good block unless yur replacing it with a darton or insanely build block.

 

figured i mines well post a couple pictures. i'm putting the gsr back together with the ls internals. it was in pieces when i started the thread, trying to decide which route to go. it's obvious now lol
gsr

b20

 

befor you put the crank and rods back in make sure they clear the gsr oil squirters .. if not you will have to bend them or plug them ... i personaly plugged mine

 

it's all together. just needs oil pickup tube and water pump. the first time i put it together i just bent them down 1/8 inch and they were out of the way. but when i honed the cylinders with my hone i forgot they were there and hit one with the hone/broke it. so i ordered the golden eagle block off kit and blocked them off. figured it will build oil pressure elsewear.