Hi guys,

Found out tonight that my ring gear is spinning on the flywheel so I'm going to just purchase a new clutch kit.

I'm trying to decide between the Exedy Stage 2 with the Exedy Lightweight Flywheel or the Competition Stage 4 with the Competition STU Flywheel.

The car is used for daily driving, some time attack, and also 1/8 mile racing. I have gator stage 4 axles, innovative engine mounts, 4-1 headers, de-cat pipe, top fuel 2.5 exhaust and a top fuel intake. Also have a Hondata S300 to install.

What do you guys think my best option is?

 

Just to throw it out there, I used to own the Comp Clutch Stage 4 with flywheel and it was the best clutch i have ever driven on an integra.

My friend had an Exedy Stage 2 in his, and it felt stock. No real difference, and engaged much harsher. The 6 puck in the Comp stage 4 is perfect, IMO. You can never go wrong with that one, and it also has room for FI, holding over 300 lb/ft of torque...

 

ACT. thats it. no other clutch would be considered by me until i build something that requires more holding power than ACT will offer me.

i back that with a OEM ITR flywheel with a fresh surface. and use Honda bearings.

 

I will put a vote out there for exedy sport, just a great clutch for a daily driven NA Honda.

 

What would you all recommend for a DD that im trying to get about 250 maybe maybe 300hp...,

 

ACT is garbage, and i say that liberally. There are a lot of users who encounter problems with the pressure plate and disc. The flywheel is ok tho.

Comp or Exedy are the best all around, hands down.

 

if you drive really hard the exedy 2 is about as aggressive as you can get for a street clutch and not want to push your car off a cliff. the copper/iron metallic discs can take more power but are literally on/off switches. the ONLY time you want to use one of those is if you actually have to. personally i'll never use anything over ceramic and if more holding power is needed i'd pony up for a twin disc.

 

Well my stock flywheel is the problem now so I won't be using that. The ring gear is completely loose from the rest of the flywheel lol..

I'm buying today, so I think I may be going with the Competition.

 

Comp stage 4 for a N/A car?
I wouldn't even consider it. I had it on my turbo gsr and its very aggressive and very "on/off" like.
If you're staying N/A get an exedy stage 1 and enjoy a clutch feel that won't make you hate driving your car.

 

Couldn't agree more.. Here is a decent combo if you want to get a new flywheel with it.

http://www.prostreetonline.com/pnsku/pscff1.asp

 

I can't see any reason why you'd need anything more than a exedy stage 1. I don't see any need for a serious clutch with your setup, especially because you're daily driving it.

I've ran the stage 1 in my track car for a while now, no complaints. I run the exedy oem clutch in my daily, also no complaints there either.

 

How about Spec clutches? Even some crazy power holding still feel like stock. Ive used a few Spec clutches in different builds, none on the ITR but I assume they are the same in feel.

 

A Comp Stage 4 is a very good street clutch and gives you room for improvement. Without the upgraded pressure plate from Comp, it is almost a stock pedal (slightly harder) but get the best engagement of any clutch ive driven.

I had a Comp Stage 4 in my NA car, and then it got boosted, and i never had the need to change the clutch or flywheel due to the extra power. Its a piece of mind knowing i can do whatever setup i want and not have to change the clutch out everytime. They all pretty much cost the same, minus a few bucks here and there, so you might as well get something that you know will suffice you anytime you add more power.

Unless were talking twin disc territory

 

well besides that stage 4 likely slowing you down in autocross, drag racing and pissing you off on the street. sure, great idea. like everyone else has said {including myself} you only use these extreme clutches if you need the power holding. if you don't the driveability is SO much better on organic it's not even funny. the reason on/off switch clutches slow you down is:

A: you can't feather them.
B: you can't slip them
C: they hit the drivetrain hard when they engage quickly

great idea for a 400whp turbo car that can't afford a twin disc, bad idea for a 200whp hot NA motor.

the exedy 1 is perfect for a hot street car and the exedy 2 will hold a lot more and not fly apart with slicks.

 

i have been daily driving my ITR for like 2 years on a ACT Xtreme pressure plate and sprung 6puck (stock ITR flywheel). both on my built B20VTEC (NA, 220whp), and my turbo B18C5 (300whp)...

take your high heals off, and man up

note: im the kinda ******* that cant live without starting 2nd gear burnouts lol. so i tend to stick to slightly more aggressive clutches...
you on the other hand have a STOCK motor. your OMG power from your exhaust/intake/missing cat = nothing. and your car is more than fine with a stock or "Exedy 1" kit. my B18C-R had an Exedy, took a beating no problem, just didnt have the power to hold a 2nd gear


just my thoughts on the matter.

 

I guess I should have listed 'plans' I have with the car.

Obviously by clutch choices above I don't intend to keep the car as is.

I'm going to start modding, heavily next year..

 

300whp or less you can go exedy 2, NA, the exedy 1, over 300whp you need a twin disc or aggressive on/off switch single

 

i do not agree with the above statements

 

Same here.

****, I had an ACT xtreme pressure plate with street disc hold 519whp/435wtq (In a mitsubishi but still) without too much problems. I don't see why you would need a twin disc or an on off at 300hp.

 

actually i dont agree with any of his statements.

would never recommend a Exedy single disc for a performance application.
my setup is slip able and not necessarily "on/off" and will hold well in excess of 300whp.

 

Twin disc for 300whp is absolutely absurd and a waste of money. At 530whp in my Integra, my Comp stage 4 never let me down and was easy to drive. Exedy is also good if you intend to stay NA, but they have much harsher engagement due to the fact of it being a 3 puck. Now, THAT, puts strain on the drivetrain. 6 puck is much better until you feel that clutch slipping due to a lot of power. When you hit very high numbers, usually in boosted setups, it is time to upgrade to the expensive twin disc.

 

it's drivability. on off switch clutches are anything above ceramic. the sintered iron, copper etc. it also depends on the tires you run. a 500whp is going to kill an organic disc if any traction is available. i've killed my fair share of clutches in life and have preferences. the exedy 1 is a great NA clutch. it's just a beefier oem disc with a stronger pressure plate. the 2 isn't insanely grabby and can handle a good deal more power. 300whp was just a ballpark wild *** guess. i was hoping you guys wouldn't get stuck on the numbers.

 

Exedy stage one ftw. The puck clutches are annoying and completely unnecessary for most peoples setups that are not forced induction.

 

this isn't true. the exedy 2 while being a 3 puc design does not make it "hit harder" it has less friction material than a 6 puc which makes is actually smoother to engage. twin discs while being wonderful at holding power are actually a breeze to drive on the street. the number of pucs has zero to do with how the clutch operates. think about that for a second. if you created a 15 puc clutch it would be nearly a full disc

 

LOL, not all twin disks are a breeze to drive. Try an exedy twin for any b series application, they are the worst. Then try an exedy twin on an evo and it drives great.