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"hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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psychotech's Avatar
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Default "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

Which do you prefer? Which is better? Need some serious answers here, just rebuilt my B17A1 and I want to know if I'll lose power with the conventional method or blow my engine with the hard and fast method......
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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1998GsRIntegra's Avatar
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Default Re: "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

Beat the **** outta it. It takes around 5 mins to properly break in a motor. Idle it to redline in first and second, then let it wind down to normal opperating rpms on its own. It will build up extreme crankcase pressure and force the piston rings to seat 360 degrees. Then immidately change your oil and drive you car normally. Just remember to ocasionally beat on it. Find a deticated break in oil with a high zinc content to use first. Then after the 5 min break in use what ever you want. Check out the moto man method on google. Gives a very detailed explanation of both methods and why the hard break in method is better.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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Default Re: "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

yup, read that article before posting this. But a tech told me it would do the opposite that it says it will.....
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 04:02 PM
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Default Re: "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

get on it, let off, get on it, let off. that's the idea. idle to redline under load. the break in oil you use is what's another thing, 5-20 dino oil is preferred. 5-30 works too, just no synthetics. they are too slick.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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1998GsRIntegra's Avatar
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Default Re: "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

Originally Posted by psychotech
yup, read that article before posting this. But a tech told me it would do the opposite that it says it will.....
The "Tech" must have been an ASE certifed drop out. I have used that method on the last two race engines I built with nothing but success. In the end its your call. I prefer the hard break in though.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 05:09 PM
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Default Re: "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

what about these high-nickle break-in oils? I see those then hear that straight 30 weight is good........but I also hear that the high-nickle oils protect the head and bearings during the break-in process..........its a little confusing for me. oh and the tech is a wyotech grad, hasn't gone for the ASE's yet.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 05:16 PM
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Default Re: "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

I use regular 5w-30 castrol oil. I beat it. I just put new rings in my ls/vtec 3 weeks ago and broke it hard. Just like everyone said. idle to redline, let the engine brake. Did that for 5 pulls. Came back in, check all the fluids. Took it to the track and did HPDE that same day. Ran like a champ. Didn't burn a drop of oil or smoke during VTEC engagement. Runs perfect.

Just make sure to clock your rings in the right directions.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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Default Re: "hard and fast" vs. manufacturer recomended break-in

Originally Posted by psychotech
what about these high-nickle break-in oils? I see those then hear that straight 30 weight is good........but I also hear that the high-nickle oils protect the head and bearings during the break-in process..........its a little confusing for me. oh and the tech is a wyotech grad, hasn't gone for the ASE's yet.
I "personally" let me restate that I "personally" prefer high zinc oils because they help the piston rings to seat better(because they are rougher) which is the ultimate goal of the break in process. I have used rotella 15w-40 non synthetic oil for all of my break in's with no problems. Just change to a conventional oil like valvoline for the first 1500 miles after the initial break in period is completed. You read the moto man article though you know that already. I have never used a high nickel oil for break in before. If you really want to go all out buy some roush racing break in oil. Its pricey but none the less a dedicated break in oil that works. I always talk to my older bro when Im unsure because he has so much experience. He got ASE certified when he was 19. And has been working at honda/acura dealerships ever since. Over 10 years at this point.
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