Old DC4 (formerly "New DC2")
Well i ended up trading a street bike for my first integra. Its a 96 RS with 200700 miles on it but it runs great and drives just as well. I do have a few questions.
1) I have an oil leak at what seems to be the camshaft seal. Basically it leaks under the front cam. Its not the valve cover as it is coming from under the black piece thats there.
2) The engine seems to be moving quite a bit so i will assume its bad/worn motor mounts. Is there any decent poly mounts for around $150 or less?
1) I have an oil leak at what seems to be the camshaft seal. Basically it leaks under the front cam. Its not the valve cover as it is coming from under the black piece thats there.
2) The engine seems to be moving quite a bit so i will assume its bad/worn motor mounts. Is there any decent poly mounts for around $150 or less?
2007,xxx miles? Hopefully you got documentation of maintenace performed. If not, I would change the timing belt and water pump asap. Might as wll as it sounds like tou need to have the valve cover off for the cam seal replacement anyway.
Unless you are building a track car or drag race car, i would stick with OEM replacement moto mounts. Aftermarket mounts increase vibration and unless you really need them, no reaseon not to replace with oem mounts.
Unless you are building a track car or drag race car, i would stick with OEM replacement moto mounts. Aftermarket mounts increase vibration and unless you really need them, no reaseon not to replace with oem mounts.
Well i found out that the engine is more than likely changed to a 98+ b18b so that's a plus. The car will be a dd/auto-x/drag car. I'm not too worried about vibration as i would rather have something that keeps things in place. Not to mention I've had solid/poly mounts in basically all my cars so far.
I will more than likely do the timing belt and such soon because i might actually be picking up some stage 2 cams and some springs and stuff to put in so i will just do it all then.
The bike was an 01 GSX-R 600. Needed some work but it was a decent bike.
I will more than likely do the timing belt and such soon because i might actually be picking up some stage 2 cams and some springs and stuff to put in so i will just do it all then.
The bike was an 01 GSX-R 600. Needed some work but it was a decent bike.
I know this seems like a noob question but what all would i need to do to have a k-swap?
Reason i ask is because i know where there is a 12k mile k24 for $800 and the kid has a 6 speed trans to go with it. as well as the stock k24 harness and ecu.
I know i will atleast need k swap mounts and axles but other than that im not exactly sure
Reason i ask is because i know where there is a 12k mile k24 for $800 and the kid has a 6 speed trans to go with it. as well as the stock k24 harness and ecu.
I know i will atleast need k swap mounts and axles but other than that im not exactly sure
Id be a little skeptical of someon selling a k24 that cheap. You could try polyurethane mount inserts if you just wanted a little more stability but good mounts are normally going to be more than $150.
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I know 200k is far from new. The title means its new to me. Don't be an asshat
The guy has bills to pay that are late from what he says. I also have a good friend that has a k20a for $600 with a 6 spee
The guy has bills to pay that are late from what he says. I also have a good friend that has a k20a for $600 with a 6 spee
cam seal is easy, get yourself a valve cover and spark plug seal set, along with an o-ring style cam seal...
http://www.amazon.com/Blox-Racing-Ho.../dp/B000W1U0SO
once you remove the valve cover, the only part to remove to change the seal is the cam cap on that specific end of the seal, make sure you rub the o rings with oil before you insert the new cam cap seal and torque everything back down along with your new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals. While your there though....you should look into doing a valve adjustment while the cover is off. As far as the mounts go....no, there is no "set" under 150 dollars, these cars have the most expensive aftermarket mounts ive seen to date imo. Typically 300 bucks for a set of 3. Typically the first two to take a **** are the torque mount which attaches to the lower AC condenser bracket, and one of the tranny mounts on the opposite side.
http://www.amazon.com/Blox-Racing-Ho.../dp/B000W1U0SO
once you remove the valve cover, the only part to remove to change the seal is the cam cap on that specific end of the seal, make sure you rub the o rings with oil before you insert the new cam cap seal and torque everything back down along with your new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals. While your there though....you should look into doing a valve adjustment while the cover is off. As far as the mounts go....no, there is no "set" under 150 dollars, these cars have the most expensive aftermarket mounts ive seen to date imo. Typically 300 bucks for a set of 3. Typically the first two to take a **** are the torque mount which attaches to the lower AC condenser bracket, and one of the tranny mounts on the opposite side.
I picked up a Password JDM cam seal and the valve cover already had new seals sometime recently so i reused them. While i was there i also threw some lime green engine enamel i had on the valve cover because someone had used some cheap spray paint in the past and it looked like poo.
Nice pick up. Don't worry about the mileage, as I never do. That's just a number to me. As long as you perform the proper maintenance for that high mileage, you can out perform any car no matter what number they have on the odo. But that's if you do the proper maintenance. With that high number I would, at the least, do a leakdown, check for compression, adjust the valve lash, change all belts, water pump, change all gaskets/guides/seals in the process, check your injectors, and get the alternator checked at your local parts store. People often overlook their alternators until their cars won't start because of it failing. That's just naming a few that you can do to your "new to you" car.
You can buy poly mount inserts from Energy suspenion for a decent price. Last time I checked, they were going for roughly $50 a set on ebay.
With the k swap, you can piece together a hybrid motor, K24 block/K20 head, for far less than what Motor distributors sell a whole type-r k series swap. This was actually a featured article on honda tuning a while back I believe. But this swap is not easy. Yes people have done it time and time again, but they did it with patience, time, and alot of money to get it right. If you have all three, than you have a recipe for a great road racing machine.
Oh and fyi, RS is a DC4 not a DC2. GL with her though, and have fun with it. IMO the RS has the next best chassis to the type-r, I had one before and it had the best go-kart feeling with the torquey b18b engine it had. I would swap my GSR motor to that chassis in a heart beat if I could.
You can buy poly mount inserts from Energy suspenion for a decent price. Last time I checked, they were going for roughly $50 a set on ebay.
With the k swap, you can piece together a hybrid motor, K24 block/K20 head, for far less than what Motor distributors sell a whole type-r k series swap. This was actually a featured article on honda tuning a while back I believe. But this swap is not easy. Yes people have done it time and time again, but they did it with patience, time, and alot of money to get it right. If you have all three, than you have a recipe for a great road racing machine.
Oh and fyi, RS is a DC4 not a DC2. GL with her though, and have fun with it. IMO the RS has the next best chassis to the type-r, I had one before and it had the best go-kart feeling with the torquey b18b engine it had. I would swap my GSR motor to that chassis in a heart beat if I could.
Last edited by revn99teg; Nov 5, 2010 at 10:06 AM. Reason: added text
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