i did an auto ecu to manual ecu conversion. i removed rp17 and rp18, but instead of a jumper wire I just used a big blob of solder to jump rp18. is that enough to achieve 0 ohms or should I use an actual wire? i'm still throwing code 19 so i'm guessing solder is not very conductive, or is it?

 

its conductive, but if you managed to get a blob like that its not sicking to the copper traces on the board, you'll need wire or the leg off a resistor, capacitor.

 

atleast clip off a piece of twist tie from your sandwich bread. damn

 

the blob is connected to both resistor legs. i just removed the resistor by moving it back and forth til it broke off its legs.

 

Use a staple, twist tie, anything wire. Jump it correctly. And keep in mind a poor joint could easily cause this issue. Clean it off and do it again.

 

Solder really doesn't work like that. What you have is a dry joint. You need a wire going through each hole.

 

ahh ok. i just redid it. put a copper wire through both holes and soldered it up, time to test it again, will update this thread in 15. i'm a noob with a soldering iron but i'm slowly learning. might have to get a better soldering iron too, this one takes forever to melt the solder. it's a craftsman 120 volt 45 watt one. is that decent or should i upgrade?

 

eh it still didn't work. oh well.

 

oops. i did it wrong. i took out r17 and r18! i looked on the other side of the ECU and found rp18 and rp17. anyone know what r17 and r18 are for?

 

What are you using for solder? 60/40 rosin core will melt pretty quick with just about anything, make sure you use paste. As far as the iron I use a small 25 or 35 watt Weller pencil iron for doing small stuff like this. I use a 100/140 watt dual heat Weller gun for bigger stuff.

 

You need to remove RP17 and RP18, install jumper on RP18 only... Make sure you re-install R17 and R18. Hopefully you didn't screw up this ECU..

 

yeah i removed r18 and r17 from the knock board (obd1 jdm p30). i put them back but i had to use resistors from another ecu cause the ones i took out broke. i'm not even sure they're the right ones cause i threw the old ones away. i finally did the rp18 and rp17 thing and the check engine light went away, but now i'm afraid the ecu is going to retard ignition timing like crazy because i may have messed up the knock board. do you think I could just remove the entire knock board? I've been doing some reading and one guy said he just desoldered the ribbon from the knock board and it runs fine.

 

Just disable the knock sensor from the Rom and you're fine..

 

that means i have to get it chipped?