ok i have a b16a in my eg hatch. the car was stolen and stripped a few months ago and when we put it back together it seems like there is problem after problem. rite now if i slam on the gas it will climb to about 4k rpm and start bogging. it sounds like 2 step. exactly like it. when this happens the car goes nowhere it wont climb pass that. if i let off the gas a lil bit it will start to climb but barely.I dont know what it could be. The motor is brand new not even 3000 miles yet. it runs perfect if im crusin. i just cant run it high.

 

It seems as if it has a fuel system problem... Might be clogged injectors or a bad fuel pump. If everything is A+ on lower RPM it might be supplying enough fuel, but when the car starts "drinking" more, they maybe unable to supply it with enough fuel...

 

yeah for sure. the injectors are kind of crappy so that could be it, the fuel pump is in good condition too. its like a fuel cut off or something. it boggs like crazy. do u think it might be something electrical? maybe its getting too much gas not enough spark. u think?

 

Any CEL codes?

Have you inspected the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Is the ignition timing set to spec?

 

Unplug both Dizzy plugs and clean them out then plugthem back in. Make sure you plug them back all the way. Had the same prob. but on a single cam. One plug wasnt seeded all the way on the dizzzy.(Not refering to the spark plugs; the plugs form the harness to the dizzy)

 

checked all grounds for cleanliness and have all of them installed - ground from trans, ground from engine, battery ground, etc.

sounds like an issue i had with an old gsr. would "redline" at 4k. was a bad ground from the trans to the body.

 

How exactly does this cause an altered redline? My 99 si redlines right at about 6k, and I want to look into this.

 

check the thermostat ground, then check the coil and inside of the dist for corosion. is your speed sensor working? stock ecu?

 

looks like you need to look into your car too. a si should redline at 8300 rpms not 6k.

 

Tell me about it. Already started a thread, if anyone's interested heres the link: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/2000-si-w-sir-bogs-dies-2847694/

 

well i baught new fuel filter spark plugs. and yes its a stock p28. im gonna work on it all night tonight. the car was just painted a month ago so im thinking maybe the paint is so thick that its not grounding rite. im also gonna check fuel pressure and voltage on everything injectors, fuel pump, dizzy. should i sand the grounding points down? im thinking its something with fuel cuz when we first put the motor in it would start sputtering like crazy rite around vtec. i took the fuel line off the other day and after i put it back on the car barely climbs to vtec at all, so it got worse. it runs perfect below about 4k above that it bogs bad

 

oh yeah and it has new ngk wires

 

Any Luck?

 

its a b16 with a stock p28?

 

ok so we rewired alot of things and fixed alot of the weird popping. it runs really good but still loses power at high rpms. i was told my clutch is slipping which seems like the case considering its a crap one we just threw in there for now. what are syptoms, sounds of a slipping clutch?

 

if its a slipping clutch it will all the sudden rev real high say from 5000 to 8000 rpm but you wont accelerate

 

rpm's climb and speedometer stays the same...

if you're still running a stock p28 that would be you have no top end power.

 

First off, if it has a CEL, you MUST fix those items first. The other thing, a bad dizzy sensor (code 4), will limit you to 3500 in "limp mode", and a terribly innacurate stock cluster may be 500rpm off.

Popping and loss of power could be from no fuel cause by bad fuel pump, clogged/junk injectors, bad FPR, or bad O2 sensor (but not throwing code).

It can also be caused by ignition - fouled plugs (via oil or fuel), bad plug wires, bad rotor, bad cap, bad coil, bad ignitor, or a bad sensor inside the distributor. The ignition requires a good ground at the battery to the frame, then from the frame to the trans. If any connecting surfaces are corroded badly (cables, bolts, engine/trans case), that must be attended to.

There is also the off chance you have a massive vac leak or a bad MAP sensor. That will suck in too much air and lean it out too much. A bad MAP can dump too much or too little fuel.


When you let it idle, does it smell like gasoline out the tailpipe? What about when you hold it at 4k for a few seconds? Raw fuel will smell just like gas, while burnt fuel when rich will have a noticable "acrid" smell.

 

well the only code im throwing is a 41 which is 02. but when i had a chipped ecu on there is was made to not detect it and it still ran like crap. my friend noticed that the harness i have is a automatic vx harness. it has a egr valve. i think that is the problem cuz i had a regular dx harness on it before and we just wired in vtec. can that be a problem? and its ok if its auto the car used to be auto we converted it, it ran perfect with a auto dx harness on a b20v before it was stolen. the dizzy, wires, plugs, fuel pump, and fuel filter are all new. should i just try to change harness?