Need To Fab H22 Intake Spacer (Secondaries)
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From: Bethlehem, PA, United States
I was thinking of using a material like the hondata gasket's or whatever someone could suggest that might be better (other than metal)...
I want to take out my secondaries since i it's not in working order anymore. I am not sure exactly what the hondata gasket is made out of, the only 2 things i can think of is a HD polyethylene, or delrin plastic...
If anyone could chime in and help me out on this it would be appreciated. Even throw out maybe what you used or what i could use. Other than metal... simply because of heat exchange.
I want to take out my secondaries since i it's not in working order anymore. I am not sure exactly what the hondata gasket is made out of, the only 2 things i can think of is a HD polyethylene, or delrin plastic...
If anyone could chime in and help me out on this it would be appreciated. Even throw out maybe what you used or what i could use. Other than metal... simply because of heat exchange.
Most people remove the secondaries, then grind/cut the webbing between the runners.
Instant spacer. No point in stopping head exchange between the plenum and the runners...
Get a hondata gasket (or cheaper copy style) then diy the plenum spacer.
Instant spacer. No point in stopping head exchange between the plenum and the runners...
Get a hondata gasket (or cheaper copy style) then diy the plenum spacer.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Bethlehem, PA, United States
I have access to a cnc machine and and whatever machine needed to cut, so it's another reason i wanted to DIY the entire thing. Would rather spend the money on the material and do it my self, and end up spending more money (maybe) than buying it already done... if that makes any sense lol. Not about the cash basically... Just about the DIY experience and capabilities.
i did this on my friends h22...
we removed the butterflies and the plate, then took out the 2 long studs, re used the oem gasket because i didnt rip it and found bolts that fit perfect length, i didnt cut the webbing and it feels alot better for the powerband
we removed the butterflies and the plate, then took out the 2 long studs, re used the oem gasket because i didnt rip it and found bolts that fit perfect length, i didnt cut the webbing and it feels alot better for the powerband
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Bethlehem, PA, United States
Don't wanna do black trax
Simply because, I can do it myself. I have the proper tools and machines.
That's why I just wanted to know what material everyone would suggest using. If worst comes to worse, I am just going to remove the secondary valves and put the spacer in.
Simply because, I can do it myself. I have the proper tools and machines.
That's why I just wanted to know what material everyone would suggest using. If worst comes to worse, I am just going to remove the secondary valves and put the spacer in.
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My vote goes for delrin. Find the exact melting temp of delrin, and if a decent safety margin exists between that and coolant temps, try it.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Bethlehem, PA, United States
No problem really. The original post is me asking what hondata is made out of or what I could use that is similar to it. I wanted to make
My throttle body gasket and my intake manifold gasket while I am dealing this part of the engine.
My throttle body gasket and my intake manifold gasket while I am dealing this part of the engine.
So let me get this straight. You don't want the extra mid-range gained by "fixing" the secondaries. Yet you'll go through a shitload of work to remove them & make a spacer for a handful of top-end ponies.
Secondaries are EASY to get working. Get a generic vac canister (any strong tube with one inlet will do), a generic Honda purge solenoid (seal the vent nipple, if present), hook the ecu's IAB wire to one solenoid wire, and feed the other wire the opposite polarity. If you don't have an up-to-date EMS like Hondata/neptune/ectune, a simple rpm switch will work fine for it. A fuse is a good idea, nearest the +12v hookup.
Then port the short runners and port-match the head/IM. You'll have a lot of time to do that, since grinding out runner dividers would have taken several hours if you had done it. FYI if you port out the upper half of the plenum, grinding away webbing (still present in pic below) & radius the spacer inlets, you'll gain plenum volume & shorten the runners.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/DSC00190.jpg
Secondaries are EASY to get working. Get a generic vac canister (any strong tube with one inlet will do), a generic Honda purge solenoid (seal the vent nipple, if present), hook the ecu's IAB wire to one solenoid wire, and feed the other wire the opposite polarity. If you don't have an up-to-date EMS like Hondata/neptune/ectune, a simple rpm switch will work fine for it. A fuse is a good idea, nearest the +12v hookup.
Then port the short runners and port-match the head/IM. You'll have a lot of time to do that, since grinding out runner dividers would have taken several hours if you had done it. FYI if you port out the upper half of the plenum, grinding away webbing (still present in pic below) & radius the spacer inlets, you'll gain plenum volume & shorten the runners.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/DSC00190.jpg
There wont BE any heat transfer. We're talking the piece between the runners and the plenum...
Just get a Hondata gasket (to stop the supposed heat transfer) and make the spacer out of aluminium.
Problem solved.
Just get a Hondata gasket (to stop the supposed heat transfer) and make the spacer out of aluminium.
Problem solved.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,507
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From: Bethlehem, PA, United States
So let me get this straight. You don't want the extra mid-range gained by "fixing" the secondaries. Yet you'll go through a shitload of work to remove them & make a spacer for a handful of top-end ponies.
Secondaries are EASY to get working. Get a generic vac canister (any strong tube with one inlet will do), a generic Honda purge solenoid (seal the vent nipple, if present), hook the ecu's IAB wire to one solenoid wire, and feed the other wire the opposite polarity. If you don't have an up-to-date EMS like Hondata/neptune/ectune, a simple rpm switch will work fine for it. A fuse is a good idea, nearest the +12v hookup.
Then port the short runners and port-match the head/IM. You'll have a lot of time to do that, since grinding out runner dividers would have taken several hours if you had done it. FYI if you port out the upper half of the plenum, grinding away webbing (still present in pic below) & radius the spacer inlets, you'll gain plenum volume & shorten the runners.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/DSC00190.jpg
Secondaries are EASY to get working. Get a generic vac canister (any strong tube with one inlet will do), a generic Honda purge solenoid (seal the vent nipple, if present), hook the ecu's IAB wire to one solenoid wire, and feed the other wire the opposite polarity. If you don't have an up-to-date EMS like Hondata/neptune/ectune, a simple rpm switch will work fine for it. A fuse is a good idea, nearest the +12v hookup.
Then port the short runners and port-match the head/IM. You'll have a lot of time to do that, since grinding out runner dividers would have taken several hours if you had done it. FYI if you port out the upper half of the plenum, grinding away webbing (still present in pic below) & radius the spacer inlets, you'll gain plenum volume & shorten the runners.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/DSC00190.jpg
So it's much more of a project/hassle than i could really care less about atm.
--- Like i said in earlier post. I am also looking to make the gasket for intake, and my throttle body... I do not wish to buy one since it is easily made on a machine. I was simply wondering what plastic material would people recommend besides for the plastic types i already named. what wondering what hondata was made out of exactly.
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