Hey guys im in the market for a CB7. I wanted to know a few common problems that these cars go through. What should I look for when i check them out?

 

the only problem is its to reliable

 

The only problems I ever had with mine ('93 EX sedan):

- Primary O2 sensor (threw a code before I bought it)
- Muffler (rusted out - it was an aftermarket unit too, so I guess it happened before)
- Power antenna (makes a funny sound when it parks down)
- Blower motor (went out, but only after the blower motor resistor was replaced once)
- Wiper switch (very touchy, doesn't always work)
- Clock (doesn't always light or keep time, flickers)

Of course those might not all be common problems. Just the ones I had as an example.

I fixed everything but the wiper switch and clock. I had no runability issues. All I put into the car was gas, new tires and brakes all around. Also picked up a few goodies that I never put on the car (brand new OE half mask, OE window visors and brand new OE fog lights)

I had the car for a year and five months. Eran (user on here) now owns it and loves it. I don't think it's had any other problems since (though the wiper switch and clock are still having issues).

274,XXX miles currently on the car btw.

 

the main relay might have to be change...

 

I have a 90 accord and a 94 accord. I change the oil, belts, and wear parts. Thats it.

90 has 211k and 94 has 180k.

No problems with either. 90 was my parents and was purchased new. the 94 I bought in 01. They are extremely reliable.

 

I've got a cb7 and it is great. the only problem that I really run into is my right foot. it gets too heavy and blow up engines.

 

New problem with Eran's CB7 as of about 15 minutes ago.

Went to remove the front corner/marker light. It's supposed to come off by removing a screw and sliding the assembly forward. Then twist the bulb to remove the bulb. Three easy steps.

The good news is this car's corner light came out in two easy steps. Remove screw and pull forward. The bad news is four parts of the assembly broke off while doing so.

Probably brittle because of age and it would have happened the next time the bulb needed to be replaced, but it still sucks.

 

I would say the distributor failing is very common.

 

Alternators die on them quite often. Check the front brake calipers, as they tend to seize and wear out your brake parts. Lastly, that brake master cylinder will go in about 10K miles. Those always seem to go. My sister's CB7 and my father's CB7 each have 280K on the clock, but are still rolling. they both replaced alternators at the same time w/ their mileage, but otherwise, they just keep on goin'.

 

I know I'm digging up an old thread, but the responses weren't what I expected to this question.

I look after 2 CB7's for the past 8 years, and also a wagon in the middle

My alternator in both cars 25 years old!

Both had a main relay replaced mine was very recently, hard to say if it was original.

Also Both have had an ignition switch another easy cheap fix like the main relay.

Oil in the spark plug wells is somewhat of an issue, but doesn't seem to affect performace, maybe if they got really full and the boots degraded. Also when replaced I used aftermarket gaskets (felpro) so that could be why they leaked again a few years later.


Captive rotors to some people are an issue, had 3 or 4 cb7 front ends totally ripped apart before and after you anti sieze everything and have a ball joint tool (not a pickle fork) it's not a problem.

Most everything else has been worn out parts ie struts, brakes. Then you get a "deal" on aftermarket stuff and it's junk in comparison to honda OEM..

Also had an issue with mine and the shift selector, but it was easily fix, by cleaning the switch.

 

My experience is this: Most old hondas of this era has been neglected and abused like no other. That being said, this is what i've either experienced with my CB7.

Transmission: The common issues are the 3rd gear synchronizer becoming worn out and the input shaft bearing wearing out. If the transmission is noisy when at idle without the clutch pedal pressed, the ISB could be the cause. (A lot of people, mechanics included, mistake a noisy ISB for a noisy throwout bearing. A bad throwout bearing makes noise with the clutch applied - the opposite of the ISB.)

Leaks: Trunk had multiple leaks, both taillights leaked, and the seal at the bottom of the window was also bad. New seals are available, I used silicone.

Brakes: My ABS modulator slowly pulls fluid from my master cylinder until it overflows, a symptom of a bad internal solenoid. Will need to replace the modulator. This is not that uncommon. I also had one caliper that was seized up.

Aftermarket parts: Here is the big one. I have never had to deal with so many rotten, low quality, piece of **** parts in my entire life before this Honda. Even brands that typically have been fine on a domestic vehicle (I've worked on multiple Fords, Chevys, and Pontiacs) have been miserable failures.

Just to give you an idea, I went through 12 bad axles from three different companies (Duralast Reman, Cardone Select, and a local rebuilder). My upper control arm ball joints failed within 3 months (Ultrapower). One lower ball joint failed within a month and looked like it was full of motor oil, not grease (Moog problem solver). Outer tie rod end ball stud threads stripped before it could be torqued to spec (Ultrapower). Strut assemblies that had bad components and felt like a bad ball joint and rattled over bumps (Raybestos "Professional Grade"). Motor mounts that had holes drilled to the wrong size and provided metal-on-metal clunking (DEA).

So, my advice, get good parts (KYB, Anchor, Raxles, Beck/Arnley). The car was well designed.