Ok, I have been doing a lot of reading on building a b18.. Fm all motor to forced induction. But I'm in question on going Ls-V/tech.. If V-tech doesn't come into play until 3500-4000rpm. For a track or strip car this is great... but a daily driver... Unless your burying your foot in the floorboard everytime u hit the gas and have deep pockets for tires, burn't clutches, busted cv axles,ect..Yes the b16 and the b18c heads are a better cc'd head. But I've seen a few heads for sale that need lma's and/or the solenoids... I haven't seen any aftermarket lma's... Why??? Why are these failing??? Abuse,high mileage??? I love working on cars as a hobby and I want to enjoy the end product for awhile.. Don't rag me to hard my hemmaroids are flaring up... And yes I do want an engine with *****!!!!!

 

vtech...

 

 

non VTEC lobes are meant for fuel economy and drivability on vtec motors. And it doesn't normally accuate until 5-6k, depending on ecu, and whether or not the user has adjusted it.

 

I have a new 5.8ghz Vtech phone for sale if you're interested. It has normal reception when outside, but once you go indoors and you hit Vtech, the clarity is unbelievable.

 

so youre saying a 140whp b16a is a great motor for the strip but since it constantly breaks axles and destroys clutches it cant be used on the street?

and lma's...age/abuse, combo of the two. the new design should solve all of those problems.

 

Now see you forgot to upgrade your axles and clutch

 

Oh yea I'll pass on the phone, the ghz aren't high enough and I need clarity both inside and outside

 

the point of vtec is to basically have 2 engines. one is good on the street and as a daily driver(vtec not engaged).......good mileage, decent low end torque are what the low lift/duration lobes offer. the high lift/duration lobes give you better top end performance. before vtec and its cousins from other manufactuers like vvt, variocam, etc.....engine makers had to pick what rpm range they wanted an engine to perform best at, but variable valve trains made it possible to have a much broader range of performance.

 

VTECH?

 

Need to read more.

 

ya. search around sum more.
ls motors can be fast. get sum pistons. and a set of cams...should be as good as gsr motor if not betterr.

YOU DONT NEEEEED VTEC. you need the essentials.
air
fuel
combustion
exhaust.

simple math

 

Sorry for the spelling guy's.. I stand corrected V-TEC..

 

Already have the pistons and rods(srp and eagle). and a ported ls head with stock internals.. I've read on a couple sites about bearings for these engines and there seems to be a toss up between acl's and oem. I've read that the acl's wear faster???

 

^where are you getn this info from?
ACL is a race bearing . or King Bearings. those are awesome too.
as lon gas you do it right. clay. plastiguage. heat cycle...youl be fine...but most people skip real engine building steps..

 

Bearing choice = whatever is in spec. You wouldn't buy either without knowing what clearances you have. And the weak point in nonvtec motors is their rivet sized rod bolts. Same ones as daddies. Upgrade to arp hardware.

 

if people are seeing increased wear with the acls then they have some other problem. oil flow issues, incorrect clearances, incorrect bearing type for the application, etc..........a plain bearing should not wear if everything is within spec.

if acls are race bearings, and people use them in their DD, then yes i can see why they would see more wear. race bearings are designed to account for the much higher stresses at high rpms. at high rpm the big end of the rod goes from being perfectly round to slightly oval. normal bearings are the same thickness everywhere so if this distortion happens to the rod the bearing would get too close to the journal and possibly contact which can spin a bearing or just wear the bearing. race bearings are thinner at the sides and thicker in the bottom of the saddle(think of the first few or last few days of the moons cycle) to account for the rods distortion while still maintaining proper clearance.

so if you install race bearings in a street engine and only check clearances at the sides then the top and bottom of the bearing will be too close. if you only check clearances at the top and bottom then the sides will be too far away. either of these cases can cause wear.

 

I've done some clearancing on the bottom end Rod clearances look good but the mains got me a little worried. Right now in the hunt for a trust worthy person/shop to spec it out so I can get the right bearings...or somebody that would help with the correct instruments....

 

hahahahahaha