so everything came apart to change tie rod ends, balljoints, rotors and pads etc, but i ended up taking everything apart and the fluid lines off the calipers and lost some fluid from the fronts, and well the fluid is old anyway and all needs to be drained and replaced.

will this affect my braking and whats the best way to go about dsraining the fluid, refilling and getting pressure back in to the lines and all the air out etc and things working properly?

iso some articles or somethings if possible

 

Well without the use of a vacuum bleeder you would do it the old fashioned way, have someone pump the pedal up, hold pressure on the pedal, and open the bleeder, then close the bleeder, pump back up, etc etc, and until all the air comes out (or if changing fluid, until all the old fluid comes out) while watching the fluid level in the res so that it doesnt go so low that it sucks air down, and jsut keep adding until your good.

 

where would i get a vaccum bleeder and how much r they roughly.

so do i need bleed all four of the lines, the fronts and backs?

level car etc?

 

vac bleeders can be had anywhere, harbor freight, sears, you name it. The principle purpose behind the vac bleeder is you do almost everything at the caliper, rather then having to pump the brakes etc, you just suck the fluid down through the vac bleeder, but remember, you have to keep adding at the res to prevent it from sucking air down from the top.

As far as the procedure goes, you bleed all 4, starting at the farthest from the master cylinder, which is usually the rear passenger side, then rear drivers, then front passenger, then front driver. Fluid itself is not gona affect the way the brakes feel, but regular fluid changes prevent moisture buildup in the fluid itself. Everything except dot5 will absorb about 2% of moisture over like a 5 year life span, thus reducing its boil over temp. But the only instances where you will see that risk is on the rally tracks where your constantly heating the brakes and the fluid. Since I dont rally mine, i went with synthetic dot3/4 from valvoline. Which was fine for every day use. I also put goodridge SS brake lines in, which improves the pedal feel by leeps and bounds.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html

 

All good info. If you are not tracking, then I would stick to the fluid that you had, probably dot 3. I changed to Valvoline several years ago and liked it, but noticed that they changed the bottle packaging a few years ago. They also changed the boiling point and I confirmed with them that they changed the formula. In the process of all of this, I got a bad MC and eventually ABS system. Turns out that though "fully compatible," dot and 3 and 4 and synthetic are different and act differently on the seals, and a change on old seals, old MC and old abs, may cause seals to leak. I now use ATE blue or gold, only on the new MC, but that is also for track. If I did not track, dot 3 is fine and I still use it in an Acura TL. I believe Honda fluid is just dot 3.

 

Yeh they got rid of the synpower brand synthetic which did have a much higher boiling point, but if your hitting the boiling points that their regular synthetic lists when just driving around town, you have a problem lol dot3/4 are usually interchangable, most fluids are both 3 and 4 compatible in the same container. If you do run dot5, which i dont recommend, everything would have to be changed and flushed, because dot5 is NOT backwards compatible. Brake fluid is a corrosive, so its possible your seals were just shot and the new fluid just helped kill them even more. Its possible that the old fluid had such a high water content from its age it was diluted enough to have a different affect on the brake system. The whole reason for avoiding water in the brake fluid though is because water expands rapidly under heat, which means when your brake calipers get hot, if there is water in the fluid, the fluid will expand, often times expanding the piston in the caliper.

 

so i dont need to level the car to do the fluid change?

and i think i have the ATE blue dot 3 fluid in there now and some new bottles for drain and stuff.

How much would a shop charge to change brake lines etc? and seals?

reason for change of fluid also is cause my peddel is mushy and the fluid in there now is like 10 years old atleast, also the fact im changing all brakes etc

 

if your pedal is mushy its from the brake lines being old, those arent hard to change at all, you can grab a set of goodridge SS lines from tirerack or what not, just take a look at how it works underneath the car, make sure you use all the new supplied crush washers etc in the kit. Seals, dont worry about it, all the seals are in the master cylinder, if that starts leaking, just replace it. Not sure how much a shop would charge but theres no reason for it if you are any sort of mechanically inclined. Car shouldnt have to be level if you do it right.

 

You can get most of the info on line, or get Chiltons or Haynes manual, quite helpful.