Interesting week with my 93 Accord. Last Sunday I noticed it was idling a little funny when I first started it. Not a rough idle but just a little repeated hiccup in the idle barely noticable if you didn't drive the car every day. Idle starts out

Monday morning, here is what happened. Fired the car up and drove it about 5 miles. Stopped, parked and shut it off for about 20 minutes. Came back out got in fired it up, put it in gear and pressed the accelerator. Immediately noticed loss of power and the car bucking and stumbling as if it had a major miss or loss of fuel. It's possible to limp along on a flat road like this but if there is a hill to go up there is not enough thrust to get up it and I have to get off the road quickly.

The Honda has done this every day this week but never on the first drive of the day. Always happens after stopping and shutting it off for a while and then restarting. After dealing with this a few days, I find that once I get it out of traffic, if I put it in neutral or hold the clutch in and rev the engine hard a dozen or so times and then try to drive again, 2 out of 3 times doing so gets the car out of that bad phase and I can get back on the road with full power and drive as far as I need to with no more problems. (Until I stop again and let it sit turned off for a while).

Car has Honda OEM distributor, good NGK Plugs, Good quality wires, throttle body cleaned about a year ago, and everything was running good until Sunday. Confirmed spark on all wires, and can hear fuel pump prime, occassional I actually hear the main relay (original) buzz as it signals for fuel pressure while I am turning the key. Fuel filter is fairly recent, too. I have not checked for fuel pressure, but again, the car runs right some of the time.

Car is mostly original. Never done a thing with the fuel pump, fuel rail, injectors, IACV, etc. Been such a good running car that I forgot about most of those parts even being there.

Been reading here about the Throttle Position Sensor and found lots of threads about how to locate it, remove it, etc. but couldn't find a thread that tells how the failing of this thing might manifest itself. Can a failing TPS effect drivability in the way I desribed above?

This problem has me stumped and I'm in search mode right now. I'm not one to drop my car off at a shop and say "find out what's wrong." I want to track this down first and see if it's something I can fix. Open to any ideas. Thanks.

 

Yes. As well as a dirty IACV or throttlebody (remove and clean with carb cleaner, use a new gasket if necessary) ,failing fuel pump or filter (fuel pressure test), clogged or broken injectors (poorman's test- put the head of a screwdriver on the injector then put your ear to the handle and listen for the clicking of the injector), or even a bad cat or O2 sensor (1. lightly tap the cat and if it rattles replace it. 2. look inside cat and if it's gunked up or corroded replace it. 3. have the exhaust analyzed with the sniffer at the shop).

 

Thanks lazlong. Of the things you listed which ones will throw a code on OBD1 and do the parts need to be shot to throw their code or will they throw one when they are becoming weak?

IACV -
O2 Sensor-
Cat. Converter-
Injectors-
Fuel Pump-

Does the TPS throw a code when it is failing or only when it is shot?

There is no CEL during these episodes my Accord is having.

 

Reported for spamming/advertising in multiple threads on the forum.

 

i literally laughed out loud when i read this

 

Usually it doesn't throw a code unless the fault is repeated. Don't know much about OBDI, gonna have to ask the gurus.

 

I'm still checking stuff. Have lots of suspects but no real firm one. Does Honda Accord OBD-1 throw a CE code for EGR valve issues?

 

Found it. Code 12. Mine is not throwing a code at all so perhaps it's not the EGR that is killing the drivability of my Accord.

Anyone ever known the EGR to malfuction WITHOUT showing Code12 in the computer?