Just curious on how much they usually go for.. is it usually above kbb avg or about the same ($1200 fair, $1700 good, $1900 excellent)?

I seen one with 221k miles, CEL on, roof paint fading and a lil beat up.. was wondering if it's worth the $1300? It's got gsr blades n ground control springs. I can't make my mind up. Seems like a good deal considering that bay area car prices seem over inflated... but i still dont know.

 

that's a good price i think. i saw one up here in the midwest, a 99, with no rust and good paint, and good interior, with 120k for 2900.

 

DX in my area go for above KBB value. It all depends what your plans are for the car.

 

I just want a DD. Only thing that kinda worries me is the high mileage and the CEL.

 

That's a good *** price for no rust. I'm in mn so should be the same rust problems here and I know people are trying to sell no rust civics for 3k+

 

Here are pics. Don't do much justice cus it's slightly more beat up irl. Lots of dents in fender.. one side of front bumper is not sittin right and roof is oxidizing. Otherwise it's got a decent body. Interior is a lil beat up too.. but like I said it's $1,300.

 

High mileage doesn't mean anything is wrong with it.

As cars get more and more miles, more things break. Little things can be looked over, but look for the major issues. Engine runability, brake problems, suspension issues, axles. Try to figure out what might be wrong with the car by checking it over and test driving it. Then judge how easy repairs might be and how costly they might be. Go home and research if you need to. Bring it to a mechanic if you need to.

I got a '93 Accord with 273,000 miles on it. It had a bad O2 sensor, and a CEL for it (read your CELs, if applicable, before purchase). That cost $90. A few months after purchase I had to replace the muffler after it rusted out. Also did brakes and tires all around. Normal maintenance type stuff. The wiper motor or switch is a little weird too, so that needs troubleshooting. That's about it though. The car was great the entire time I owned it and I only got rid of it because I found a car I liked more.

The car I liked more cost much less, but still had 257,000 miles. Needs a bit more work than the Accord, but I've been wanting that model (battery replaced $65, alternator replaced $104, brakes $60, tires, and eventually some body work and paint). Drives great though! So much fun.

 

So we know it has high miles, needs a paint job and costs $1300. Not sure about other problems.

I'd try to talk the price down at least. Paint jobs are expensive.

 

Yup.. I couldn't run the code since I didn't have a reader. It's 1hr 15min drive there so it's a pain. And he won't go lower then 1300.. i tried. I was hoping I could since it's a lien sale but nope.

 

thats how much shells run for in so cal, i would definitely jump on it

 

nice deal

 

I would do it, make sure you have extra money for immediate maintenance and any possible emergent repairs. Make sure you have your mental checklist and just go through it, take your time and inspect it well.

 

2nd

also, sometimes you just have to jump into it, i would i had the money for repairs

 

at most the cel is for the o2 sensor which is caused by a cracked exhaust manifold for 1300 i would jump on it worst comes to worst clean it up and resell

 

Thanks for the input fellas. I will rent a code reader from Autozone and read it before buying it. I will also inspect the car to the best of my abilities.

 

It also depends on what your plans for the car are. I got a DD hatch a few years ago and the bumpers, fender, headlights, were pretty beat up and I left it that way since I knew it was going to be my bucket DD. If I were to get new bumpers, headlights, etc, then thieves might want to jack it from me.

 

Yeah, ditto. I don't care much about the body. The wheels already attract a lot of attention.
I just wanna make sure the price is right as a DD. The mechanic said the suspension was bad because the car was bouncy. I couldn't tell what he was talking about when I took it for a quick spin. Springs a little stiff but the shocks were working.

Btw, how do I check the codes? Do I have to jump two wires by the ECU or does it have a plug underneath the steering wheel for a code reader? I didn't think of checking yesterday but I want to be prepared when I go this time.

 

Why would you say that's the worst the CEL could be for? CELs come on for hundreds of reasons. Though gas caps and O2 sensors are common, they're not the only reasons they come on and by far not the worst.
All US passenger vehicles from model year 1996 and newer (except for some diesels) are OBDII. That orange scan tool you rent from Autozone is for OBDII. Most cars, including this Civic, have the DLC (Data Link Connector) under the driver's side of the dash.

For this car in particular you'll be looking for a black 16 pin plug mounted next to the hood pull.

OBDI cars can be read using the jumper wire on the passenger side. Technically you can scan this car the same way, but it's not going to give you as detailed of a code.