My accord has been through three headgaskets since I have owned it. My mom had it done at a shop before I was handy with a wrench, and had it back the second time. Both times, blew again. Second time sealed for two months then blew. Obviously, something is busted.

The heads have been milled and at this point, I am planning on scrapping them and just picking up a low mileage/rebuilt heads for a couple hundred bucks.

The motor that is in my car is rebuilt, with a F22B1 block,and F22B2 heads.

I am going to put on F22B1 heads, might as well if I need new heads. My question is concerning the water pump/timing belts.

They are different part numbers, and I am assuming the timing belt is a different length. Does anyone know the difference in the water pumps? I would think the pulley is different.

I'm going to assume I can't get out of pulling apart the timing area of the motor to install the B1 belt/water pump

And yes, I know all about the need for a P0a ECU and Vtec wiring.

 

i've heard that you need a new timing belt and waterpump because of the taller camshaft profile.

how true that is im not sure, but im actually going through the same thing. I bought a head from a machine shop off ebay for $270 shipped including shipping back for the core. I'll help you along if you help me with the wiring part lol.

 

also just curious, what are you going to do for the distrubitor? use the vtec one and convert it or use the lx one? I think im going to use the LX one if it will work

 

I cross referenced the dealer part numbers today for the cam gears, water pump and timing belt. The timing belt is different. Taller cam needs a longer belt obviously. Also the cam gear, so that can transfer over.

however, the water pump is the same for both engines.

The distributor should work. Vtec is driven off of oil pressure, so as far as I know the distributor should work fine. I was planning on re-using mine

If you're using an F22B2 block make sure you pull out the plug thats in the Vtec oil passage.

Wiring is easy, you have to add the Vtec pressure switch/solenoid pins to the ECU (I grabbed twenty or thirty out of an accord). and then the appropriate matching connectors engine bay side if you want cleanliness, if not just solder the wires on where they need to go and hook up an appropriate ECU.

 

hey thanks for the heads up.. i knew it ran off pressure just wasn't sure if the distrubitor would line up..

also as far as i know.. there is no plug in the block.. that seemed to be a civic thing. I have the right ecu too thankfully i had an ex i bought as a parts car.. so hopefully when my timing belt kit comes in i will be able to get my car up and running. Do you want to see the place where i got the head from? If so PM me i'll send you the link

 

I found one on Ebay.

 

is it from AL.machine shop? thats where mine came from.. they shipped it the day i payed for it.. and it looks good

 

Why dont you just get an H22a head if you are going to go through the hassle of changing the ECU and dizzy?

 

from what i've read the h22 heads require you to work the f22 block quite a bit. not sure if the h22a head is different but its not what i wanted to do.. for me atleast

 

I didn't get an H22 head because I am interested in pulling them off, changing the head gasket and putting it back together. I don't wanna have the engine torn down for a week frankensteining it.
Why would I have to change the distributor? As near as I can tell the only difference is internal vs external coil. Using the B2 wiring harness, its already wired for the external coil dizzy on the car. Meaning I can just re-use it.

 

same here. so im going to reuse it. not to mention the write doesn't mention him using another one, and he actually said in the bottom that the old one would work.

 

Yeah, Ironically enough using the LX dizzy would require rewiring the harness for internal coil. It doesn't matter which distributor you use as long as it is wired correctly into the harness.

 

right and since we both are going from LX non vtec head to a vtec head.. we obviously have the LX wiring harness.. why change what doesn't need to change. More chance of problems or headaches.

 

Exactly. The only issue that I can see is the coil will need to be moved/remounted because the Vtec solenoid on the poa heads appears to occupy the space where the ignition coil currently is.

 

well i think im going to try this swap this weekend. Thanks for the help.. def be around you're computer this weekend if i need help! Btw im going to use the f22a vtec head swap for reference. I think im just confused about the wiring part of it all

 

It will be way simpler than the F22a swap because the older engines issues of water pipe compatibility and differences in head size will not be present.

The wiring is simple. You need to add two pins to the ECU harness (Not sure where, look at a pinout) for Vtec pressure switch and Vtec solenoid. Then run two wires through the firewall to the back of the heads. Super simple.

 

i hope it goes smoothly. I am a little nervous.. first time doing a timing belt on a 4 cylinder too but im not too worried about that

 

well i'll give you an update.. i have everything bolted up and ready to go.. everything we have decided that would work does infact work. I can tell you atleast it will in theory. The distrubitor does fit, the coil does need to be moved. Now, My vtec solenoid only has one wire on it. Is this normal? What is it, and where does the other wire that needs to be added go? I know i need to ground it as well.. so why do i only have 1 wire? what is going over my head here?

 

after doing some reading.. it seems mine doesn't have the pressure switch? idk how this could be possible seeing i took the whole head off and EX car..

also i just grabbed my ecu that i pulled from that car and its a poh-l02. So i don't get why he had a vtec car without vtec? The pressure switch is defiantly missing, i just went out and looked at it. theres just a bolt in place of it. What does this mean? I need to get the pressure switch, and this ECU will run it alight?

 

for anyone whose reading this.. I finished the swap. There are a FEW things that WILL NOT work. One being the spark plug wires themselfs. They DO NOT fit the vtec valve cover. You WILL need vtec ones, they do fit on the non vtec distrubitor though. non vtec distrubitor does work just fine, however, you need to relocate the coil (keep in mind the coil wire is only about a foot long) the timing belts ARE different, the vtec one is longer. The Vtec intake manifold looks like it'd work, HOWEVER, some of the sensors have different connectors on them, and no way to butt connect or otherwise connect the wires to them. So use your stock intake manifold. Make sure you switch all the sensors over from the non vtec head to the vtec head. No oil problems. Exhaust header fits the vtec engine just fine as well. Make sure you have the valve cover bolts for the vtec head as well, they are not the same on the non vtec as i found out. Other than that, everything else went smoothly.

 

Hey if you can take some measurements, I have access to a machine shop. I could fabricate a relocation bracket for the coil. I just need measurements and a rough idea.

 

sure do you want the measurements of the coil itself or the bracket its on that you can take off? I personally think im going to stuff it down under the intake (i have a short ram and it will fit)

 

looks like i have a problem with vtec.. however i have the "j" spec solenoid, IE no pressure switch. So i hooked the pressure sense line and the solenoid line together.. doesn't work. Looks like i need the pressure sender!

 

Well I would need the measurements for the coil bracket. Where it bolts onto the coil I was thinking of mounting the coil front side of the dizzy, using the two distributor bolts to secure it.

 

its about 4.5 inches long, by 6 inches tall, by 5.5 wide. Rough measurements with a tape measure