Need help and/or inspiration on project B18C1
5 months ago I made the purchase of a lifetime. I've been the previous owner of two LS integras, I had both stolen and stripped. With a 96 Integra being my first car ever purchased, with my hard earned money during high school. I had decided to quit the tuner scene due to my bad luck with cars. 5 months ago that luck changed, my mom told me about one of her coworkers selling a car. I went to see it and it was an Integra. I checked the VIN on the car and engine(both matched), researched it and turns out it was an original 1996 Integra GS-R. I talked to the guy(who had no clue what the car was) and talked him into selling it for $2500! What a deal!
Last year in college I decided on taking something more exciting, something hands on. I took an ASE and NATEF certified auto shop class. Best class I ever took, instructors are really awesome. This semester I enrolled in Engine R&R, we're 2 months into the class and the instructor has asked us to select a project engine to overhaul. I decided on my B18C1. I have around $6K for my project. With maybe another $3-4K by next year. My plans are going either big or small. My plan is to get another engine on the side. One to work on and one to have in my car. My friend has a B18B with a B16A head (those Frankenstein engines)sitting in his garage. I've been out of the tuner scene for almost 4 years and would love some advice on this.
We will be doing everything by the book, that means torquing, sequencing, and degreeing everything to specs. I'm currently helping two friends overhaul a 289 big block Ford engine. That thing is massive compared to my inline 4. We just prepped it to take out the engine; bled everything(all coolant, oil, fluids, and fuel), labeled and marked all hoses and cables, unbolted the exhaust & exhaust manifold and tranny. Just waiting for tomorrow to get the chain rack and finish unbolting the mounts/linkages and take that sucker out.
Well that's the story thus far.. I have a friend that wants to help on my inline 4. He is planning on working on his KA24DE later on. The only reason why I'm confident about this is because we constantly have instructors monitoring us and aiding us on steps and procedures. We have already done lab engines and went through procedures for detorquing, measuring cylinder bore diameter, crankshaft main and rod journal diameter, bearing clearance, piston crown diameter, compression ring end play, and a lot of other things.
Okay now shoot.. My B18C1 barely hit 150K miles. My plan with the money is to replace everything that is warn out. Then either going the N/A road with forged internals and higher compression or going with forced induction, again with forged internals, but low compression. This will be my first time ever doing anything like this to a car that I own. I have from now until December of this year. Even if I don't finish this year I still have next year.
Sorry for the wall'O text.
Last year in college I decided on taking something more exciting, something hands on. I took an ASE and NATEF certified auto shop class. Best class I ever took, instructors are really awesome. This semester I enrolled in Engine R&R, we're 2 months into the class and the instructor has asked us to select a project engine to overhaul. I decided on my B18C1. I have around $6K for my project. With maybe another $3-4K by next year. My plans are going either big or small. My plan is to get another engine on the side. One to work on and one to have in my car. My friend has a B18B with a B16A head (those Frankenstein engines)sitting in his garage. I've been out of the tuner scene for almost 4 years and would love some advice on this.
We will be doing everything by the book, that means torquing, sequencing, and degreeing everything to specs. I'm currently helping two friends overhaul a 289 big block Ford engine. That thing is massive compared to my inline 4. We just prepped it to take out the engine; bled everything(all coolant, oil, fluids, and fuel), labeled and marked all hoses and cables, unbolted the exhaust & exhaust manifold and tranny. Just waiting for tomorrow to get the chain rack and finish unbolting the mounts/linkages and take that sucker out.
Well that's the story thus far.. I have a friend that wants to help on my inline 4. He is planning on working on his KA24DE later on. The only reason why I'm confident about this is because we constantly have instructors monitoring us and aiding us on steps and procedures. We have already done lab engines and went through procedures for detorquing, measuring cylinder bore diameter, crankshaft main and rod journal diameter, bearing clearance, piston crown diameter, compression ring end play, and a lot of other things.
Okay now shoot.. My B18C1 barely hit 150K miles. My plan with the money is to replace everything that is warn out. Then either going the N/A road with forged internals and higher compression or going with forced induction, again with forged internals, but low compression. This will be my first time ever doing anything like this to a car that I own. I have from now until December of this year. Even if I don't finish this year I still have next year.
Sorry for the wall'O text.
It's awesome that you get to have knowledgable instructors guiding you, thats the best way to learn! It's really up to you how you want to build it. Both N/A and Forced induction routes are good, it just depends on the application you have in mind for it. There are tons of threads around here that describe the benefits of both types of applications.
The important part is that you have fun with your build. Good luck and keep us updated!
The important part is that you have fun with your build. Good luck and keep us updated!
Thanks. I plan on taking pics and video of everything I do as reference. Just gonna finish helping my friends out on their 289. I will look into the searchbar for some N/A vs Forced Induction feedback..
i personally would do n/a cause i dont like turbos in car that didnt come with it. and with 6k to spend you could have a sick 220-230whp n/a motor. hondas were built for n/a imo. but you can still have a reliable turbo setup as long as you have someone tune it that knows what they are doing, i mean someone that has experiance in tuning turboed cars. same goes for n/a setup too. i would build the motor and then take it right to a reputable place before you even run it on the road. and if your interested in a ls/vtec swap go to this link. https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=ls+vtec
This situation SCREAMS poorman's type-r build to me.. Hone/deck/bore the block, balance that crank, and put in some higher compression oversized pistons, and you'll have quite the monster.
All could be have well within your budget, especially since most of the labor will be done yourself. Does your school have a machine shop?
All could be have well within your budget, especially since most of the labor will be done yourself. Does your school have a machine shop?
IMO, don't bother swapping then swapping back. it's a waste of time and energy. just use a loaner or something.
dollar for dollar, FI is always the best way to go for power. that goes for hondas, nissans, mazdas, etc..
dollar for dollar, FI is always the best way to go for power. that goes for hondas, nissans, mazdas, etc..
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slpr_civic93
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Jul 6, 2006 09:31 PM
743power
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Feb 24, 2003 10:50 AM




