my jdm itr is idling at 1100 rpm when warm, i've tried everything to fix it, including -

1. cleaning the iacv
2. resetting idle via the helms method
3. replacing the iacv with another one
4. checked timing and timing belt
5. checked valve clearance
6. cleaned throttle body
7. checked and cleaned pcv valve
8. checked throttle cable tension
9. replaced thermostat and thermoswitch
10. replaced spoon p73 box with oem itr p73 box, still idled high

the weird thing is that idle with aircon on is spot on at 1100 rpm. i also noticed that when i restart the car ( when its warmed up ), the idle starts out at the correct 850rpm, then gradually goes up to 1100, so it doesnt seem like its a vacuum leak to me. any other suggestions?

 

Throttle cable a touch to tight?

 

Stock fuel pressure and timing? Have you tried adjusting the idle screw on TB?

 

mine sometimes idles at ~1000. IIRC stock idle should be within 250rpm of 750 rpm.

 

the throttle cable has enough slack, while fuel pressure and timing are correct.

 

bad O2 sensor. Probably the secondary one.

 

second o2 will not cause this. bad coolant temp sensors can. get your car on the scan tool and see if it's going to closed loop. if the ecu sees cold water temps it will keep the car in open loop and warm up mode.

 

im not getting any CEL for the o2 sensor. water temp sensor reads at 94 deg c when warm, so i think the sensor is ok

 

good, is the ecu going into closed loop when warm and you're driving around at part throttle?

 

just move your distributor.

 

 

timing is where you would go next if the ecu checks. a vacuum leak is the other possible but the rpms will often freak out and jump around when this is the case. a steady 1100rpm i have only seen by either a custom ecu programmed to do so or the ecu staying in warm up mode.

 

I hope this helps you narrow it down because I'm having an identical problem. It started for me after I used some seafoam in the vacuum line, and cleaned the EAC. I got a nice increase in power and acceleration, but now my car idles high. Can't seem to bring it back to 650-700 rpm. I'm pretty sure I did something to the EAC to make it stay in warm up mode or open loop. Is there anyway to reset it? Or do need to get a new EAC? No codes are coming up.

 

Make sure the cruise control vacuum line is still connected. If it is with no rips buy a bottle of brake clean and while the car is idling spray it all over the manifold where there could be a leak. If the idle raises in a general location to where your spraying look there.

 

how would you know if the ecu is going into closed loop? my obd2 reader only displays timing, speed, bat voltage, mani press, water and intake temp? i've already tried changing timing and fiddling with the tb screw, no dice

 

if it displays that it should show the o2, scroll down and see if anything says open or clsd, a scan tool is the only way. if you are in closed loop when driving and everything is working right you likely have a vac leak BUT the iac valve usually freaks out if this is the case. if you let the car idle a few minutes the rpms should jump up n down if it's a vac leak.

 

its getting cold where i live, and unless i let the car sit and warm up for 10 minutes, it idles high when im driving and in neutral..then dies back down at a stop. it sometimes reaches 2700. but when its warming up, it moves from 1300 to 2000 rpm, then back down...and the thermostat takes forever to go up.. could it be a sensor? no CEL...



i have a stock 96 jdm ITR in a 98 hatch..

 

i have a similar problem, and a fellow buddy told me to recalebrate the TPS!

 

Has anyone tried checking the idle sensor? Is that even a thing???

 

If you have a Hondata S300 or S200 its soooooo easy to adjust the idle.