ok so when im driving when im coming out of first gear and im getting my rpms up as soon as it hits around 1700 1800 rpm itll start bogging like crazy then sound like im hitting two step if i press on the gas harder and let go of the clutch itll go away or if press down all the way on the gas itll go away dropping the clutch then say im making a turn then putting it into second the same thing will happen around 1700 1800 rpm and it the car just rocks back and forth looking like i just learned how to drive stick also if im cruising in second gear and fully let go of the gas itll fall on its face and if im trying to slowly get back on the gas it wont unless i press on the gas more and it pretty much throws your head back this all started to happen when i was adding coolant into the reservoir and i accidentally didnt close the reservoir left it hanging, so i thought there was air in the cooling system and i bled it but it still does it

also i finally fixed my fluctuating idle it ended up being my ecu was bad and i cleaned the iacv so it could have been one of them, but ever since i did that it seems like the car idles higher when i turn my head lights off it idles around 1500 then when i turn them on it idles around 1100 im fine with it idling at 1100 but im not fine with the car idling at 1500 when i just simply turn the head lights off, could it be my batter? my battery looks over sized like it doesnt even fit the tray. could it be my alternator, or could air still be in the cooling system

help me out please

 

Can someone change the title to

multiple problems with idle, bogging and late throttle response

or something bettter lol

 

Bogging under load is usually the ignition- meaning the engine bogs out when you floor it going uphill or carrying alot of weight. Ignition caused bogging usually happens less at higher RPM's. Bogging at high throttle regardless of load is usually a TPS problem, a MAP sensor problem or a problem with one their circuits. This problem will happen anytime you press the pedal past a certain point or at all and is not as affected by RPM as ignition bogging. Bogging out can also be caused by an incorrect air/fuel ratio that is harder for the ignition to set off. This type of bogging can get better or worse with RPM depending on the circumstances. Continuous high idle that gets lower when you turn on electrical accessories might be a stuck open IACV. Both problems could be related if a vacuum leak (stuck open IACV) is throwing off the fuel map.

 

its raining today, so i cant even take off the iacv or anything

 

on my iacv there is no screen is that bad?

 

Having no screen wouldn't necessarily cause a problem unless crap got into the intake, but it hopefully means that someone has messed with it before. I've never heard of the screen being sucked into the motor so I wouldn't worry about that. There's a procedure for checking the idle and IACV outlined in repair manuals and probably somewhere on HT.

 

I would have to agree with the problem beeing a vacuum leak if it's not taken care of sooner then later u can do severe damage to ur motor hope this helps u out

 

Hello there from my experience with a simular problem I had in the past it was a vacuum leak my suggestion is get it checks sooner then later because it can cause a lot of damage if not fixed I hope this helps

 

Don't bump ancient threads.