How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Garden grove
Re: How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
wrap a towel around your wheels, then hit the top part with a mallet...
remember...a mallet! so you wont scratch the rims
you should be able to see some jdm slantiness in 20-25 nice hits
remember...a mallet! so you wont scratch the rims
you should be able to see some jdm slantiness in 20-25 nice hits
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From: East Coast
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Northern, VA
Re: How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
if you want this slanted look--and I don't know why people are being jerks, since everyone and their mother seems to be going for this stretched/super-cambered look--then you'll want to buy coilovers or a strut/spring combo that will lower the car to the height you want and front and rear camber kits. camber is what you're talking about when you want the wheels to "slant." you may need to look into some fender solutions, but i really have no insight to that.
just do more searching for information in the suspension forum maybe?
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: NW
Re: How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
^The width of the wheel has nothing to do with whether or not stock hubcaps will fit. If the hubcap is for a 15" wheel, then the hubcap would fit any 15" wheel, given the wheel is within the original offset.
Diamond racing makes wider "steelies", the trend originated from the jdm boat trailers, etc. It also allows you to make a vivid statement, without actually using words, that the owner of the car hasn't realized how mentally challenged he/she is. OP, do yourself a favor and do some more research. I hope you'll realize how pointless your goals are.
Negative camber wears down your tires in a heart beat, seeing as how you have a very small contact patch. You should have a goal of correcting camber issues, not figuring out how to further destroy them.
Diamond racing makes wider "steelies", the trend originated from the jdm boat trailers, etc. It also allows you to make a vivid statement, without actually using words, that the owner of the car hasn't realized how mentally challenged he/she is. OP, do yourself a favor and do some more research. I hope you'll realize how pointless your goals are.
Negative camber wears down your tires in a heart beat, seeing as how you have a very small contact patch. You should have a goal of correcting camber issues, not figuring out how to further destroy them.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: Northern, VA
Re: How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
^The width of the wheel has nothing to do with whether or not stock hubcaps will fit. If the hubcap is for a 15" wheel, then the hubcap would fit any 15" wheel, given the wheel is within the original offset.
Diamond racing makes wider "steelies", the trend originated from the jdm boat trailers, etc. It also allows you to make a vivid statement, without actually using words, that the owner of the car hasn't realized how mentally challenged he/she is. OP, do yourself a favor and do some more research. I hope you'll realize how pointless your goals are.
Negative camber wears down your tires in a heart beat, seeing as how you have a very small contact patch. You should have a goal of correcting camber issues, not figuring out how to further destroy them.
Diamond racing makes wider "steelies", the trend originated from the jdm boat trailers, etc. It also allows you to make a vivid statement, without actually using words, that the owner of the car hasn't realized how mentally challenged he/she is. OP, do yourself a favor and do some more research. I hope you'll realize how pointless your goals are.
Negative camber wears down your tires in a heart beat, seeing as how you have a very small contact patch. You should have a goal of correcting camber issues, not figuring out how to further destroy them.
and while negative camber certainly doesn't help a tire's life, as far as i can tell, it's the toe that does most of the killing. though i can't speak on the ultra-stretched/negged look.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: NW
Re: How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
Purchase coilovers. Don't waste your money on a camber kit, you may need it to fix future issues. Your looking for negative camber so go ahead and just slam the car without fixing the camber, and you'll get that "slanted" look you want.
GL
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 310
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Re: How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
guys guys guys EASYyyyyyyyyyy, he's new to this apparently LOL, and jesus christ those fat chicks are disgusting ROFLLL
pretend he's like that one friend you know that wants to get into all this stuff but hasn't learned anything yet and cut him some slack
ok so your gonna want to do a little research first so that you know everything involved to doing what you want to accomplish, the "slant that you are talking about where the wheels lean in towards the center of the car is called negative camber read below:
WHAT IS CAMBER?
Camber is the angle of the wheel relative to vertical, as viewed from the front or the rear of the car. If the wheel leans in towards the chassis, it has negative camber; if it leans away from the car, it has positive camber (see next page). The cornering force that a tire can develop is highly dependent on its angle relative to the road surface, and so wheel camber has a major effect on the road holding of a car. It's interesting to note that a tire develops its maximum cornering force at a small negative camber angle, typically around neg. 1/2 degree. This fact is due to the contribution of camber thrust, which is an additional lateral force generated by elastic deformation as the tread rubber pulls through the tire/road interface (the contact patch).
To optimize a tire's performance in a corner, it's the job of the suspension designer to assume that the tire is always operating at a slightly negative camber angle. This can be a very difficult task, since, as the chassis rolls in a corner, the suspension must deflect vertically some distance. Since the wheel is connected to the chassis by several links which must rotate to allow for the wheel deflection, the wheel can be subject to large camber changes as the suspension moves up and down. For this reason, the more the wheel must deflect from its static position, the more difficult it is to maintain an ideal camber angle. Thus, the relatively large wheel travel and soft roll stiffness needed to provide a smooth ride in passenger cars presents a difficult design challenge, while the small wheel travel and high roll stiffness inherent in racing cars reduces the engineer's headaches.
It's important to draw the distinction between camber relative to the road, and camber relative to the chassis. To maintain the ideal camber relative to the road, the suspension must be designed so that wheel camber relative to the chassis becomes increasingly negative as the suspension deflects upward. The illustration on the bottom of page 46 shows why this is so. If the suspension were designed so as to maintain no camber change relative to the chassis, then body roll would induce positive camber of the wheel relative to the road. Thus, to negate the effect of body roll, the suspension must be designed so that it pulls in the top of the wheel (i.e., gains negative camber) as it is deflected upwards.
While maintaining the ideal camber angle throughout the suspension travel assures that the tire is operating at peak efficiency, designers often configure the front suspensions of passenger cars so that the wheels gain positive camber as they are deflected upward. The purpose of such a design is to reduce the cornering power of the front end relative to the rear end, so that the car will understeer in steadily greater amounts up to the limit of adhesion. Understeer is inherently a much safer and more stable condition than oversteer, and thus is preferable for cars intended for the public.
Since most independent suspensions are designed so that the camber varies as the wheel moves up and down relative to the chassis, the camber angle that we set when we align the car is not typically what is seen when the car is in a corner. Nevertheless, it's really the only reference we have to make camber adjustments. For competition, it's necessary to set the camber under the static condition, test the car, then alter the static setting in the direction that is indicated by the test results.
things you will need to accomplish what you want:
1.Coilovers - if you buy just coilovers and nothing else you'll be able to lower the car but that is it, and your stock struts will get blown out in about a week or two and your car will bounce ALOT on bumps
2. Struts - typically a "legit" suspension setup will give you new struts designed for the car to be at a lower ride height etc. and springs to go along with them OR you can buy your own struts and coilovers but be aware if you do that the springs might have totally screwy spring rates thus it'll still feel crappy, either way it will accomplish what you want to do and your struts wont blow out
3. Camber Kit - if you dont want to absolutely RAPE your tires from having too much negative camber (thus your tires wear really bad on the inside and the remaining 65+% of the tire is fine) then you'll need to get camber kits for the front and the rear depending on preference and how low you want to go, and obviously the more money you spend the more adjustability you'll get from a camber kit. i like to get the most adjustability possible from my camber kits . example: -3.0 degrees through +3.0 degrees camber adjustability
4. Optional: Pillow ball mounts - these are optional but sometimes come with certain coilover packages (for example the Megan Racing coilovers for 92-95 civics etc.) - Pillowball upper mounts are designed to offer greater feed back by eliminating the deflection in OEM rubber bushings. A NWB spherical bearing is used in place of the rubber bushing, which allows for improved tire grip and more accurate wheel alignment. In vehicles with front strut type suspension, an adjustable camber plate is incorporated into the upper mount. Degrees of adjustment will range depending on application.
IN a nut shell to get what you want accomplished you'll just need coilovers (just adjustable sleeve style ones at the least) to lower the car(be prepared for bad tire wear) and tires that are stretched (not wide enough so they are stretched when mounted to the wheels) and of course wheels cause frankly 15's in general are not wide unless you buy some very low offset 15"s etc in order to get tires to be stretched on them.
to do what you want and not blow through tires and bounce all over the place like a total ricer you should get full coilovers usually about 600 bucks or so and up for a decent setup, and camber kits for the rear (since full coilvers usually give you a measure of adjustability for the front camber) and if you need more i recommend full A arms that will adjst camber for the front and frankly anything else suspension wise is optional and reallly to just improve handling for what you've already got like upper strut tower bars, lower tie bars, LCA's, roll cage etc etc etc
good luck buddy, welcome to the honda scene
pretend he's like that one friend you know that wants to get into all this stuff but hasn't learned anything yet and cut him some slack
ok so your gonna want to do a little research first so that you know everything involved to doing what you want to accomplish, the "slant that you are talking about where the wheels lean in towards the center of the car is called negative camber read below:
WHAT IS CAMBER?
Camber is the angle of the wheel relative to vertical, as viewed from the front or the rear of the car. If the wheel leans in towards the chassis, it has negative camber; if it leans away from the car, it has positive camber (see next page). The cornering force that a tire can develop is highly dependent on its angle relative to the road surface, and so wheel camber has a major effect on the road holding of a car. It's interesting to note that a tire develops its maximum cornering force at a small negative camber angle, typically around neg. 1/2 degree. This fact is due to the contribution of camber thrust, which is an additional lateral force generated by elastic deformation as the tread rubber pulls through the tire/road interface (the contact patch).
To optimize a tire's performance in a corner, it's the job of the suspension designer to assume that the tire is always operating at a slightly negative camber angle. This can be a very difficult task, since, as the chassis rolls in a corner, the suspension must deflect vertically some distance. Since the wheel is connected to the chassis by several links which must rotate to allow for the wheel deflection, the wheel can be subject to large camber changes as the suspension moves up and down. For this reason, the more the wheel must deflect from its static position, the more difficult it is to maintain an ideal camber angle. Thus, the relatively large wheel travel and soft roll stiffness needed to provide a smooth ride in passenger cars presents a difficult design challenge, while the small wheel travel and high roll stiffness inherent in racing cars reduces the engineer's headaches.
It's important to draw the distinction between camber relative to the road, and camber relative to the chassis. To maintain the ideal camber relative to the road, the suspension must be designed so that wheel camber relative to the chassis becomes increasingly negative as the suspension deflects upward. The illustration on the bottom of page 46 shows why this is so. If the suspension were designed so as to maintain no camber change relative to the chassis, then body roll would induce positive camber of the wheel relative to the road. Thus, to negate the effect of body roll, the suspension must be designed so that it pulls in the top of the wheel (i.e., gains negative camber) as it is deflected upwards.
While maintaining the ideal camber angle throughout the suspension travel assures that the tire is operating at peak efficiency, designers often configure the front suspensions of passenger cars so that the wheels gain positive camber as they are deflected upward. The purpose of such a design is to reduce the cornering power of the front end relative to the rear end, so that the car will understeer in steadily greater amounts up to the limit of adhesion. Understeer is inherently a much safer and more stable condition than oversteer, and thus is preferable for cars intended for the public.
Since most independent suspensions are designed so that the camber varies as the wheel moves up and down relative to the chassis, the camber angle that we set when we align the car is not typically what is seen when the car is in a corner. Nevertheless, it's really the only reference we have to make camber adjustments. For competition, it's necessary to set the camber under the static condition, test the car, then alter the static setting in the direction that is indicated by the test results.
things you will need to accomplish what you want:
1.Coilovers - if you buy just coilovers and nothing else you'll be able to lower the car but that is it, and your stock struts will get blown out in about a week or two and your car will bounce ALOT on bumps
2. Struts - typically a "legit" suspension setup will give you new struts designed for the car to be at a lower ride height etc. and springs to go along with them OR you can buy your own struts and coilovers but be aware if you do that the springs might have totally screwy spring rates thus it'll still feel crappy, either way it will accomplish what you want to do and your struts wont blow out
3. Camber Kit - if you dont want to absolutely RAPE your tires from having too much negative camber (thus your tires wear really bad on the inside and the remaining 65+% of the tire is fine) then you'll need to get camber kits for the front and the rear depending on preference and how low you want to go, and obviously the more money you spend the more adjustability you'll get from a camber kit. i like to get the most adjustability possible from my camber kits . example: -3.0 degrees through +3.0 degrees camber adjustability
4. Optional: Pillow ball mounts - these are optional but sometimes come with certain coilover packages (for example the Megan Racing coilovers for 92-95 civics etc.) - Pillowball upper mounts are designed to offer greater feed back by eliminating the deflection in OEM rubber bushings. A NWB spherical bearing is used in place of the rubber bushing, which allows for improved tire grip and more accurate wheel alignment. In vehicles with front strut type suspension, an adjustable camber plate is incorporated into the upper mount. Degrees of adjustment will range depending on application.
IN a nut shell to get what you want accomplished you'll just need coilovers (just adjustable sleeve style ones at the least) to lower the car(be prepared for bad tire wear) and tires that are stretched (not wide enough so they are stretched when mounted to the wheels) and of course wheels cause frankly 15's in general are not wide unless you buy some very low offset 15"s etc in order to get tires to be stretched on them.
to do what you want and not blow through tires and bounce all over the place like a total ricer you should get full coilovers usually about 600 bucks or so and up for a decent setup, and camber kits for the rear (since full coilvers usually give you a measure of adjustability for the front camber) and if you need more i recommend full A arms that will adjst camber for the front and frankly anything else suspension wise is optional and reallly to just improve handling for what you've already got like upper strut tower bars, lower tie bars, LCA's, roll cage etc etc etc
good luck buddy, welcome to the honda scene
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 581
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From: on my way to page 10
Re: How to get my CIVIC so LOW!!
The people posting ******** comments are probably ones who searched and did research for what they wanted to know, and not post vague and asinine threads in the wrong sub forum.
