I just replaced the timing belt and water pump in my D15b2. Lined up crank to TDC by lining up the red dot on the crank pulley to the part of the timing belt cover that sticks out. lined up the cam by lining up the hash marks with the head. tried to start the car and that didnt work.
I then reset the timing. Did the same thing with the cam. Then i lined the crank up by placing a screw driver into the #1 spark plug hole and turning the crank using that to see when the piston was at the top of its travel. After that it started up and ran.

Then issue i'm having is that the car will rev up fine if I push the gas slowly, but if I push it quickly, it sputters and doesnt rev up.

I have heard that I could have bent a valve, or that the timing could still be off by a tooth or 2.
how do I check to see if I bent a valve?

 

Help anyone?

 

did u line up the cam pully or did u put the belt on and just lined up the crank pull

 

I'm guessing that your timing is still off. Get someone who has done this to help you if you can't get it. Also don't forget to load the tensioner. After you get everything tightend up use your ratchet you rotate your crank pully several times and check how close or far off your timing marks are off. (Don't forget that your cams will make 1 revolution for every 2 of your crank)

 

If by red dot you mean the middle of the three marks on the main/crank pulley then there's a possibility you bent a valve. That mark is for setting ignition timing only via the distributor. The TDC mark is a little bit further to the right of the three marks on the main pulley. If you want to confirm if you bent something you would need to do a leak down test or a compression test. A compression test will only tell you what the compression is at but if it's the only thing you can do at least you'll know where the problem(s) is at (if the compression is substantially lower than another cylinder or you have low compression across you have a problem). Doing a leak down test can give you a better idea of where/what the problem is. Hopefully nothing is bent and you're just off a tooth or so.

 

^I've aligned to the three marks before (which is incorrect), and didn't have any issues with valve to piston damage. Usually you have to be off much further than that.

 

How do you load the tensioner? I have havnt seen anything on how to do that yet.
After asking a few people and reading, I think I'm just off a tooth or two. I think it has to do with the tensioner pulling the belt when I tighten it up again making it pull the crank off time.

 

Get yourself a Chiltons or Haynes manual, they're only like 20 bucks and follow it STEP BY STEP, do not skip things like some people think they can do. Loading the tensioner is simply turning the crank 2 teeth a certain direction to put a tight fit on the belt on the side of rotation so that your timing doesnt turn itself out of sync. Pleeaassseee just invest in a Chiltons. For a new guy to mechanics or someone learning it will be worth it's weight in gold. Also, about your valve I suppose it's "possible" but I wouldnt think so. Hondas arent an interference engine. But when you tighten everything up and think you're good to go like I said make a bunch of rotations with just your hand not starting it and keep checking that your marks are where they should be.

 

Fixed.

 

Well then I suppose I stand corrected. I have been told different and also never have had an engine out of time enough that i've been able to get the valves to contact the pistons. However i'm fairly certain that he didn't put it so out of time that he could have gotten that to happen. Also he should have definately heard it if he did.

 

fixed.


im not sure what you could have done wrong with your timing issues. double check it again with a factory manual. but it kinda just sounds like your spark plug wires are bad.

 

I will pick up a Haynes. I've been putting it off because I figured you could find it all on the internet but i guess not. It helped a ton with my Jeep.
I have the factory service manual, but it just assumes you know how to set the time.
Someone else had suggested I turn the crank a few teeth off and see if it lines up properly when I tighten it down. I will give that a try.

Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are all brand new. It doesnt have to do with the ignition.

 

Just line everything up, make sure the belt is tensioned on the side that DOESN'T have the tensioner on it, then push the tensioner against the belt and bolt it in. Rotate the engine over by hand in the direction it naturally spins in, and line it back up and ensure that your marks are all still where they should be.