B18C-R - Jumped time.. o_O
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
I'll make a long story short by starting out and saying my 2000 jdm integra type-r swap jumped time today..
I was on my break and headed to grab a bite to eat, kinda late taking off from the red light.. so i rolled into in somewhat aggressively and around 7,000 rpms.. engine just shut off.
Luckily I had enough momentum to get off the road and pull into a parking spot.. Just got AAA about two months ago, thank the lord.. called them up, towed it home and realized it jumped time..
Cylinder #1 spark plug, crushed.. all others look fine..
I don't understand what happened or what went wrong.. I replaced the timing belt tensioner and it was a brand new OEM Honda timing belt.. it's been on there for a couple months..
The engine has seen one single HPDE and other random abuse with zero problems and today it just randomly jumps time..
I'm at loss for words.
I was on my break and headed to grab a bite to eat, kinda late taking off from the red light.. so i rolled into in somewhat aggressively and around 7,000 rpms.. engine just shut off.
Luckily I had enough momentum to get off the road and pull into a parking spot.. Just got AAA about two months ago, thank the lord.. called them up, towed it home and realized it jumped time..
Cylinder #1 spark plug, crushed.. all others look fine..
I don't understand what happened or what went wrong.. I replaced the timing belt tensioner and it was a brand new OEM Honda timing belt.. it's been on there for a couple months..
The engine has seen one single HPDE and other random abuse with zero problems and today it just randomly jumps time..
I'm at loss for words.
It doesn't appear as though the jumped timing was the cause but rather the effect. Dropped valve, valve float, or detonation may have been one from the long list of possible culprits. It appears as though your valve making love to your piston and not enough room to do so caused binding which made your belt jump. Unless of course your belt was indeed loose or the tensioned failed. What cams/valvetrain/pistons are you running?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
It doesn't appear as though the jumped timing was the cause but rather the effect. Dropped valve, valve float, or detonation may have been one from the long list of possible culprits. It appears as though your valve making love to your piston and not enough room to do so caused binding which made your belt jump. Unless of course your belt was indeed loose or the tensioned failed. What cams/valvetrain/pistons are you running?
No sir.
I just don't understand how randomly it just happens one day.. I wasn't over revving the engine, didn't mis-shift, etc. I've seen engines take abuse, over and over before and this has never happened.. Guess there's always a first, huh..
That, looks like something different..alot can happen in a matter of seconds of jumping timing.. But it looks like it didn't just jump timing alittle.. how many teeth was it off, cause if i had to guess, your looking at +7 teeth off which is enough for a valve to break off at the stem and bounce around. at 7k rpms ..it can do alot of damage.. lets see what it looks like when the head is pulled off..
That looks like something else, i dont think i've ever seen a spark plug look like that, while jumping time and it only being a few seconds.. that looks like serious detenation problems lmao.
That looks like something else, i dont think i've ever seen a spark plug look like that, while jumping time and it only being a few seconds.. that looks like serious detenation problems lmao.
Is the bolt on your tensioner still tight? or is there slack in the belt? If it's still tight, the only thing that could make it jump timing like that is dropping a valve, which can and does happen. How many miles on your motor? You'll need to take the head off for a better look.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
That, looks like something different..alot can happen in a matter of seconds of jumping timing.. But it looks like it didn't just jump timing alittle.. how many teeth was it off, cause if i had to guess, your looking at +7 teeth off which is enough for a valve to break off at the stem and bounce around. at 7k rpms ..it can do alot of damage.. lets see what it looks like when the head is pulled off..
That looks like something else, i dont think i've ever seen a spark plug look like that, while jumping time and it only being a few seconds.. that looks like serious detenation problems lmao.
That looks like something else, i dont think i've ever seen a spark plug look like that, while jumping time and it only being a few seconds.. that looks like serious detenation problems lmao.
So you've never seen something that looked like that?
Is the bolt on your tensioner still tight? or is there slack in the belt? If it's still tight, the only thing that could make it jump timing like that is dropping a valve, which can and does happen. How many miles on your motor? You'll need to take the head off for a better look.
My buddy's motor blew in third gear cruising in the city at around 3k rpm. We suspect it dropped a valve also from most likely worn keepers. Keepers take a lot of abuse. I don't trust these "low mileage" JDM motors. Come on people, these motors are 10+ years old. I highly doubt there are any left under 50k miles and aren't abused. Yet, everyone selling these motors claim they are only 40-50K miles with mostly highway miles, yeah right.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
My buddy's motor blew in third gear cruising in the city at around 3k rpm. We suspect it dropped a valve also from most likely worn keepers. Keepers take a lot of abuse. I don't trust these "low mileage" JDM motors. Come on people, these motors are 10+ years old. I highly doubt there are any left under 50k miles and aren't abused. Yet, everyone selling these motors claim they are only 40-50K miles with mostly highway miles, yeah right.
If i take the head off this engine and it's trashed, I plan on ordering another long block. I guess good advice would be to replace everything in the head to keep this from happening in the future?
I know it man. Damn it. It yielded good compression numbers, didn't smoke, didn't burn a drop of oil.. It seemed to be a really health engine. All i can do is laugh really.. I'm out so much right now, but i can only plan and look forward on bouncing back..
If i take the head off this engine and it's trashed, I plan on ordering another long block. I guess good advice would be to replace everything in the head to keep this from happening in the future?
If i take the head off this engine and it's trashed, I plan on ordering another long block. I guess good advice would be to replace everything in the head to keep this from happening in the future?
You guys do realize that is NOT detonation right?
Before you start taking everything apart, STOP and lets start painting a picture of what exactly happened here...
Its obvious a valve failed, but why? Check the valve lash on that cylinder. Excessive lash could indicate another bent valve.
What valve failed?
Are the valve keepers still in place? (If so, its not a valve keeper problem)
What cams are out of time and how much?
Are the camshaft journals OK?
Whats the highest rpm this engine has seen?
Have you had a mis-shift recently? (its ok, we all make mistakes)
Sorry to hear about your loss...Same thing happened to me one time. JDM ITR engine with aftermarket exhaust valves.
It looks to me the valve head(face?) pulled away from the stem, dropped in the chamber, resulting in the mechanical damage you see on the plug. Get ready. Its not gonna be pretty when you pull the head..
Before you start taking everything apart, STOP and lets start painting a picture of what exactly happened here...
Its obvious a valve failed, but why? Check the valve lash on that cylinder. Excessive lash could indicate another bent valve.
What valve failed?
Are the valve keepers still in place? (If so, its not a valve keeper problem)
What cams are out of time and how much?
Are the camshaft journals OK?
Whats the highest rpm this engine has seen?
Have you had a mis-shift recently? (its ok, we all make mistakes)
Sorry to hear about your loss...Same thing happened to me one time. JDM ITR engine with aftermarket exhaust valves.
It looks to me the valve head(face?) pulled away from the stem, dropped in the chamber, resulting in the mechanical damage you see on the plug. Get ready. Its not gonna be pretty when you pull the head..
jimmy, i work on alot of cars, ive not seen that unless the piston smack the head or a retainer split in half..and let the valve go...if you need another head, lemme know, i have misc parts laying around ill give you crack head pricing on to help you out, you lemme know what you need..i got head and blocks laying..i need to get rid of...we need more pics to correclt diagnose..pull the vc, and remove the cams..lets see that retainer and keeper
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
You guys do realize that is NOT detonation right?
Before you start taking everything apart, STOP and lets start painting a picture of what exactly happened here...
Its obvious a valve failed, but why?
What cylinder is this on and what valve failed?
Are the valve keepers still in place? (If so, its not a valve keeper problem)
What cams are out of time and how much?
Are the camshaft journals OK?
Whats the highest rpm this engine has seen?
Have you had a mis-shift recently? (its ok, we all make mistakes)
Sorry to hear about your loss...
It looks to me the valve head(face?) pulled away from the stem, dropped in the chamber, resulting in the mechanical damage you see on the plug. Get ready. Its not gonna be pretty when you pull the head..
Before you start taking everything apart, STOP and lets start painting a picture of what exactly happened here...
Its obvious a valve failed, but why?
What cylinder is this on and what valve failed?
Are the valve keepers still in place? (If so, its not a valve keeper problem)
What cams are out of time and how much?
Are the camshaft journals OK?
Whats the highest rpm this engine has seen?
Have you had a mis-shift recently? (its ok, we all make mistakes)
Sorry to hear about your loss...
It looks to me the valve head(face?) pulled away from the stem, dropped in the chamber, resulting in the mechanical damage you see on the plug. Get ready. Its not gonna be pretty when you pull the head..

It is on cylinder #1 and I'm not sure of the valve keeper being in place..
I will answer truthfully and honestly.. I have not mis-shifted the engine. The highest rpms the engine has seen is 9,000.. I actually believe it's 8800 rpms though.
This engine is in an Integra RS and I have the stock gauge cluster in place which only goes to 8k and i've taken it to the end of that (But i do know that is inaccurate)
Thank you all for the feedback. I am open to all suggestions. I realize a lot of you all have been thru this I just hope i can learn from this experience and you all can suggest me quality parts that work so this will never happen again.
jimmy, i work on alot of cars, ive not seen that unless the piston smack the head or a retainer split in half..and let the valve go...if you need another head, lemme know, i have misc parts laying around ill give you crack head pricing on to help you out, you lemme know what you need..i got head and blocks laying..i need to get rid of...we need more pics to correclt diagnose..pull the vc, and remove the cams..lets see that retainer and keeper
I plan on pulling the engine out this weekend and taking it to my local builder.
I know right now, I'm nervous about pulling it apart and i'm probably up **** creek, but I'll get it back together very soon hopefully.
Thank you, I really appreciate it.
id just go with a mild build...i had a stock block itr, with a built head. ra fine for over 5 years until the oil pump took a ****...i think a stock oem block, built head, good bolt ons and a tune will put you around 200whp and be a good daily....like i said, if you need anything...lemme know. Ill actually offer my shop services to build it for you, put it all together and ship it to you, to where you only gotta drop it in the car and go....just let me know.
if you want a walk through...call me and ill help you out
if you want a walk through...call me and ill help you out
as for the build if you wanna keep it simple rsmachines itr or p30 pistons ,hone, your head is probly recked so a new head , maybe mill the head a dash depends on what cams you wanna run, new valve guides, flat face valves or oem,pro1 cams and valve train
that would be a nice mild build that wont put a hurting on the wallet
that would be a nice mild build that wont put a hurting on the wallet
If you rebuild the block, you could always sleeve it and make a nice 2L out of it. Once you look at the head, sens some pictures to Combustion Contraption and see if he can fix it up for you. You could potentially end up with a head that gets fixed and makes a lot more power for less money.
id just go with a mild build...i had a stock block itr, with a built head. ra fine for over 5 years until the oil pump took a ****...i think a stock oem block, built head, good bolt ons and a tune will put you around 200whp and be a good daily....like i said, if you need anything...lemme know. Ill actually offer my shop services to build it for you, put it all together and ship it to you, to where you only gotta drop it in the car and go....just let me know.
if you want a walk through...call me and ill help you out
if you want a walk through...call me and ill help you out
If you rebuild the block, you could always sleeve it and make a nice 2L out of it. Once you look at the head, sens some pictures to Combustion Contraption and see if he can fix it up for you. You could potentially end up with a head that gets fixed and makes a lot more power for less money.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
id just go with a mild build...i had a stock block itr, with a built head. ra fine for over 5 years until the oil pump took a ****...i think a stock oem block, built head, good bolt ons and a tune will put you around 200whp and be a good daily....like i said, if you need anything...lemme know. Ill actually offer my shop services to build it for you, put it all together and ship it to you, to where you only gotta drop it in the car and go....just let me know.
if you want a walk through...call me and ill help you out
if you want a walk through...call me and ill help you out
as for the build if you wanna keep it simple rsmachines itr or p30 pistons ,hone, your head is probly recked so a new head , maybe mill the head a dash depends on what cams you wanna run, new valve guides, flat face valves or oem,pro1 cams and valve train
that would be a nice mild build that wont put a hurting on the wallet
that would be a nice mild build that wont put a hurting on the wallet
If you rebuild the block, you could always sleeve it and make a nice 2L out of it. Once you look at the head, sens some pictures to Combustion Contraption and see if he can fix it up for you. You could potentially end up with a head that gets fixed and makes a lot more power for less money.
Where are the best places to shop?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 0
From: where i stunt SAND CANYON in Southern California
from my little experience 1 or 2 teeth will not do that to ur spark plug.. my friend and i have installed a timing belt and it was off by a tooth or 2.. the engine didnt run right.. but it ran.. and revved.. till we took the belt off and fixed the timing.. looks like something more happen with ur engine.. skipped more then 1 or 2 teeth.. or something else
200whp is VERY reachable, There are many ways it can be done. Whats a setup your interested in? e85? 93? i think some pro1's and some e85 with a good header/exhaust setup and a 3 inch cold air should break into the 200s or get VERY close. You can easily get rid of your R cams for around the same amount ive seen pro1s go for.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 0
From: where i stunt SAND CANYON in Southern California
200whp is VERY reachable, There are many ways it can be done. Whats a setup your interested in? e85? 93? i think some pro1's and some e85 with a good header/exhaust setup and a 3 inch cold air should break into the 200s or get VERY close. You can easily get rid of your R cams for around the same amount ive seen pro1s go for.



