Well, a little back story quick. Car was purchased about 3 years ago. My girlfriend needed a reliable daily driver that was good on gas to get her through college and then some. We found the car at a local dealership bone stock with 122,000 miles on it. Was owned by an older guy who drove it mostly highway to work and back and took pretty good care of it. The girlfriend fell in love with it immediately as she always loved driving manual trans. Here is a picture of it shortly after it was purchased.



After that we decided to build the car in a fashion that it would get the best gas mileage and be the most reliable it could be, but still be fun to drive. I decided to start with the engine and transmission and go with maintenance and upgrades before I started into the other stuff. Here's a list of what's currently done with the car.

General

Scan vehicle system for trouble codes
Check vehicle for noise, vibration, and harshness

Engine

Degrease engine bay
Perform dry cylinder compression test
Inspect engine and transmission components for leaks and wear
Inspect motor and transmission mounts for leaks and wear
Honda OEM front left motor mount
Honda OEM front left motor mount and sub frame modified for new bolt and nut
Perform valve lash adjustment
Honda OEM valve cover custom painted
Honda OEM valve cover gasket
Honda OEM spark plug oil tube seals
Honda OEM valve cover grommets
Check and set valve timing
Gates Racing timing belt
Gates timing belt tensioner
Honda OEM timing belt tensioner spring
Honda OEM upper timing cover shaved and custom painted
Honda OEM middle timing cover custom painted
Honda OEM lower timing cover custom painted
Gates Racing air conditioning compressor belt
Gates air conditioning compressor belt idler pulley
Gates Racing alternator belt
Honda OEM crankshaft pulley woodruff key
Honda OEM revised crankshaft pulley bolt (new torque specification)
Fuel induction and de-carbon service (1 can of Seafoam liquid in gas tank, de-carb throttle body, intake manifold, and idle air control valve using Seafoam Deep Creep, add 2/3 can of Seafoam liquid into brake booster vacuum hose, add 1/3 can of Seafoam liquid to crank case, and add 1-2 tablespoons of Seafoam liquid into each cylinder)

Intake

Check and adjust idle speed
Perform manifold vacuum test
Replace OEM vacuum system hose clamps with Ideal screw-type hose clamps
OBX red brake booster vacuum hose
Honda OEM 92-95 Civic EX brake booster check valve
3A Racing red fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose
Inspect and adjust throttle cable assembly
Honda OEM throttle cable assembly
Remove Honda OEM intake assembly
AEM polished finish short ram air intake assembly (includes hose clamps, vacuum tubing, filter, piping, and mounting hardware)
Remove and clean throttle body assembly
Honda OEM throttle body gasket
Remove and clean idle air control valve
Honda OEM idle air control valve
Honda OEM idle air control valve gasket
Replace OEM positive crankcase ventilation system hose clamps with Ideal screw-type hose clamps
Honda OEM positive crankcase ventilation valve
OBX red positive crankcase ventilation valve hose
Replace OEM emission system hose clamps with Ideal screw-type hose clamps
Gates purge control solenoid valve hose
3A Racing red charcoal canister inlet hose
3A Racing red charcoal canister outlet hose
3A Racing red charcoal canister drain tube
OBX red charcoal canister drain hose

Fuel system

Inspect fuel system components for proper operation, leaks, and wear
Perform fuel pressure test
Replace OEM fuel system hose clamps with Ideal screw-type hose clamps
Honda OEM fuel filler tube cap
Honda OEM fuel line clip
Honda OEM fuel filter (includes brass crush washers)
Marshall Comp White liquid filled 0-100 PSI mechanical gauge
Russell Performance M12x1.25 aluminum banjo bolt with 1/8” NPT female fitting
Russell Performance brass crush washers
Honda OEM fuel system supply hose
Honda OEM brass crush washers
Gates fuel pressure regulator hose
Gates fuel system return hose

Ignition

Check and set ignition timing
NGK OEM style spark plugs
NGK OEM style spark plug wires
Honda OEM distributor o-ring
Honda OEM distributor cap
Honda OEM distributor rotor

Exhaust system

Inspect exhaust system components
Swap to 92-00 Honda Civic EX exhaust system
Dorman stainless steel exhaust system hardware
Megan Racing 4-2-1 stainless steel 2 piece header (includes piping, gaskets, and plug)
NGK OEM style upstream oxygen sensor
Magnaflow OEM style catalytic converter (49 state legal)
NGK OEM style downstream oxygen sensor
Password JDM 32” oxygen sensor wiring extension
Apex’i World Sport 2 stainless steel catalytic converter-back exhaust system
(piping, mufflers, gaskets, and hardware included)

Oiling system

Perform oil pressure test
Perform oil consumption test
Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil cap (includes gasket)
Blox Racing gold oil filter block adapter (includes plugs, gasket, and filter bolt)
Mobil 1 Extended Performance OEM style oil filter
Password: JDM magnetic oil drain plug
Honda OEM oil pan custom painted
Honda OEM oil pan gasket
Honda OEM oil dipstick tube o-ring
Honda OEM front crankshaft seal
Honda OEM camshaft seal

Cooling/heating system

Inspect cooling system components for proper operation, leaks, and wear
Perform cooling system pressure test
Perform cooling system flush and fill
Honda OEM water pump
Honda OEM water pump gasket
Zerostart 1000-watt tank-style circulation engine heater (includes hardware, hose clamps, mounting bracket, and fittings)
Gates 5/8” bulk engine heater inlet hose
Gates 5/8” bulk engine heater outlet hose
American Valve ¾” ball valve with PEX ends
Replace OEM cooling system hose clamps with Ideal screw-type hose clamps
Password: JDM gold radiator stay
Honda OEM radiator cap
Honda OEM reserve tank radiator hose
Honda OEM reserve tank cap
Honda OEM reserve tank cap hose
Gates Racing upper radiator hose
Gates Racing lower radiator hose
Honda OEM idle air control valve coolant inlet hose and breather heater hose removed and replaced with Gates 3/8” bulk coolant hose
Honda OEM idle air control valve coolant outlet hose
Honda OEM breather pipe removed and replaced with AEM air intake assembly hose
Honda OEM coolant bypass hose
Honda OEM thermostat
Honda OEM thermostat gasket
Honda OEM thermostat housing
Honda OEM thermostat housing o-ring
Inspect heating system components for proper operation, leaks, and wear
Replace OEM heating system hose clamps with Ideal screw-type hose clamps
Honda OEM heater coolant inlet hose (A)
Honda OEM heater coolant inlet hose (B)
Honda OEM heater coolant outlet hose
Honda OEM heater core grommet

Air conditioning system

Inspect air conditioning system components for proper operation, leaks, and wear
Reclaim, evacuate, add dye, and recharge air conditioning system
Honda OEM air conditioning system label
BG air conditioning system oil/dye label
Air conditioning system charge amount written on radiator support with paint marker
Clean air duct system of debris and mold
Honda OEM evaporator drain tube
Honda OEM evaporator drain tube grommet

Transaxle/clutch

Drain and refill transmission fluid
Password: JDM magnetic transmission drain plug
GSP driver side axle shaft assembly (new)
Honda OEM driver side axle shaft seal
GSP passenger side axle shaft assembly (new)
Honda OEM passenger side axle shaft seal
Bleed and refill clutch master cylinder
Password: JDM clutch master cylinder reservoir cover
Russell Performance stainless steel clutch hose (includes retaining clips)
Blox Racing dual bend short shifter (includes hardware)
Blox Racing bronze 5-speed 450 gram shift ****
Password: JDM red stitched shift boot
Energy Suspension shift linkage mount bushing
Energy Suspension shift linkage rod end bushing (includes sleeve)

Electrical system

Inspect vehicle wiring and grounds for shorts and corrosion
Perform charging system and battery test
Optima Yellow Top battery group 65
Hayame Performance red battery tie down
Autocraft gold-plated marine battery terminals (positive and negative)
Remove, clean, and re-install OEM right headlamp ground wires
Remove, clean, and re-install OEM left headlamp ground wires
Remove, clean, and re-install OEM air conditioning compressor ground wires
Remove, clean, and re-install OEM thermostat housing ground wires
Honda OEM battery ground wire replaced with Rockford Industrial Welding Supply 4 gauge welding cable and Autocraft brass cable lugs
Honda OEM fuse box power supply wire replaced with Rockford Industrial Welding Supply 4 gauge welding cable and Autocraft brass cable lugs
Honda OEM starter power supply wire replaced with Rockford Industrial Welding Supply 4 gauge welding cable and Autocraft brass cable lugs
Honda OEM valve cover ground replaced with Rockford Industrial Welding Supply 4 gauge welding cable and Autocraft brass cable lugs
Honda OEM transmission ground replaced with Rockford Industrial Welding Supply 4 gauge welding cable and Autocraft brass cable lugs
Woods 15’ 16 gauge black workshop extension cord
Zerostart plug protector
Wal-Mart 100’ 16 gauge orange general purpose outdoor extension cord
Bayco Kord Manager 150’ 16 gauge orange extension cord storage reel
Remove and clean Honda OEM starter body and contacts
Remove and clean Honda OEM alternator body and contacts
Dorman Conduct Tite 3-wire headlamp connector pigtail
Remove, clean, and re-install OEM radio ground wire
Inspect vehicle lighting system
Adjust headlamp level
Sylvania Silverstar Ultra headlamp bulbs
Remove Honda OEM daytime running lamp assembly

Steering/Suspension

Inspect steering/suspension system components for leaks and wear
Replace OEM steering/suspension system cotter pins with Dorman stainless steel cotter pins
14”x5.5” Honda OEM steel wheels painted white
Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 185/65/14 tires
Honda OEM steel rim lug nuts
16”x7” ET40 offset Drag DR-16 gold with polished lip wheels
Excalibur 67mm to 56.1mm pink aluminum hub centric rings
Kuhmo Escta ASX 205/45/16 tires
Muteki cold steel forged closed-end spline drive black lug nuts
Progress Street Performance coilovers (includes hardware, bushings, bumpstops, washers, and spacers)
Blox Racing front upper control arm assemblies with adjustable/replaceable ball joints (hardware included)
Blox Racing rear upper control arm assemblies with adjustable sleeves
Honda OEM rear upper control arm bolts
Blox Racing compensator arm assemblies with adjustable sleeves
Honda OEM compensator arm bolts
Perform four-wheel alignment -
Tie-rod adjustment in front for toe
Sliding upper ball joint adjustment in front for camber
Compensator arm locking sleeve adjustment in rear for toe
Upper control arm locking sleeve adjustment in rear for camber
Camber set to -2.8 degrees rear, -1.2 degrees front, toe set to factory specs

Braking system

Inspect braking system components for leaks and wear
Password JDM brake master cylinder reservoir cover

Body

Inspect body and body panels for fitment, wear, corrosion, and dents
Lube latches, locks, and hinges
Entire underbody, wheel wells, and bumper support areas undercoated
Honda OEM trunk latch assembly
Lube window seals, window tracks, door seals, and weatherstripping
15% window tint on all windows with windshield tint strip
Honda OEM hood prop rod holder
Honda OEM antenna block off plate
Depo black housing 96-98 Honda Civic OEM style headlights
Depo red/white 99-00 Honda Civic OEM style tail lights
Honda OEM grille cut and shaved for engine heater cord end
Spoon Sports replica side mirrors with blue glass tint (paint matched to body color)
Honda OEM rear bumper cover (painted matched to body color)
Honda OEM rear bumper cover clips
96-98 Civic SiR replica lip (painted matched to body color, includes mounting hardware)

Wiper/washer system

Inspect wiper system for proper alignment and operation
Wiper arms repainted satin black
Rain-X Latitude wiper blades
Clean wiper blades with alcohol wipes
Inspect washer fluid system for proper alignment and operation
Honda Fit OEM washer nozzle swap
Replace OEM washer fluid system tubing with Aqua Culture aquarium tubing

Interior

Honda OEM driver front seat belt tensioner assembly
Honda Civic EX gauge cluster swap
Honda OEM coin tray
Honda Civic EX/HX coupe armrest console (includes bracket and hardware)
Honda Civic EX/HX coupe OEM armrest console latch
GlowShift gray triple gauge A-pillar pod (includes hardware and caps)
Blox Racing 52mm oil pressure gauge (includes bracket, sending unit, hardware, and wiring harness)
Blox Racing 52mm vacuum/boost gauge (includes bracket, tubing, fittings, hardware, and wiring harness)
Blox Racing 52mm voltage gauge (includes bracket, hardware, and wiring harness)
Honda Civic Si climate control amber bulb covers
Honda OEM dome light assembly
Honda Civic EX trunk light swap with 10-watt bulb
Honda Civic EX OEM trunk light pigtail
WeatherTech black all-weather rubber floor mat set (front and rear)
Mainstays artic white 34”x 21” bath rugs (front and rear, winter only)
Honda OEM radio/climate control surround
Kenwood KDC-MP3035 radio (includes sleeve and wiring harness)
American International radio installation kit adapter
American International radio wiring harness adapter
Belkin 6’ 3.5mm jack audio cable

 

Now, a little explanation for things.

Since it's a gas mileage daily driver I didn't feel it worth the time or money to replace the fuel pump, fuel rail, FPR, fuel lines, or change the fuel map. The fuel pump will be replaced with a better unit once the stock one does fail, but until then stock one FTW. The stock fuel rail will support 400+ WHP and aftermarket ones will just be expensive bling, so that's something that will be put off. Since the fuel map isn't being changed there's no need for the aftermarket FPR. Changing to stainless steel fuel lines would be a waste also. And lastly there's no need to change the fuel map since the car won't see a change in cam or FI.

That list for the cooling system will handle everything besides the radiator and cooling fan. I didn't want to up the pressure of the radiator cap since the car never gets hot and I'm not wanting to put the added strain on the cooling system. The stock radiator will get replaced after it wears out and fails but until then it does the job perfectly, and the same goes for the cooling fan. They will probably get replaced with Mishimoto aluminum replacements. Other than that everything there covers the cooling system components.

The only thing that I didn't change on the exhaust system were the rubber exhaust hangers. Those are something that didn't need replaced since they were still plenty good and will be replaced after they fail in the future.

The intake list takes care of everything besides changing the throttle body or intake manifold. I was debating swapping the manifold, but I don't think it'll be worth the effort and will be just a bling item and I feel the same about the throttle body. The stock manifold seems to be designed for gas mileage in mind rather than power on the D16Y7, which is what I'm aiming for.

I recharged the A/C system and installed BG fridgi quiet dye after vacuuming it for an hour, so the A/C system works perfectly. Also, I removed the fresh air duct and blower motor and cleaned all the dust and debris out and freshened the system with BG fridgi fresh blower system cleaner to remove all the mold and make it smell nice. All I had left to do was order some new A/C stickers and install them next to the condenser next to my dye sticker and charge amount. I was thinking of doing the cabin filter mod but honestly, I think it's waste. As soon as you roll down the window anything that wants to is getting into the car. Also, with how clean the blower system was without one I can't imagine spending the time and money to purchase the parts to install one.

I don't plan on building up this motor since it's designed to get the best gas mileage and be reliable as possible. Also, at 143k miles this engine is in excellent shape. It's been well taken care of through it's life and it shows - 185 PSI across the board, all perfectly even. Also, the cooling system holds 14 PSI for over 45 minutes without loosing 1 PSI. And to top it off even in the winter with snow tires it will still average 36 MPG between town and highway driving with a high of 42 MPG. Very indicative of a good engine. I don't plan on changing camshafts or pistons or anything internal unless I see engine failure to keep MPG's at an optimum. I went with the upgraded Gates Racing timing belt and accessory drive belts since I was able to get them for a decent price. Also, the blue look is a nice touch to go with the Gates Racing radiator hoses. Also, Gates Racing belts are actually the same as the Greddy belts so I know I can rely on them to give me thousands of miles of reliable use.

Nothing much to do on the ignition system really. The stock system supports high HP and was built exceedingly well. I felt no need to change it besides some maintenance.

The only other thing I can think of doing is using an oil cooler for the oiling system, but since I live in Iowa no thanks. Besides, it's not needed since the car isn't using forced induction or being raced. The stock oil cooler on the oil filter is plenty sufficient for this car. Also, I was looking for aftermarket dipsticks but don't see anyone that makes them.

About the only thing I'm missing is a different flywheel and clutch or swapping transmissions or installing a LSD. All of those parts are the original OEM ones and are still in perfect working order. I will be keeping the DX trans as it has the longest gears to keep gas mileage at an optimum. Most likely I'll just stick with the stock differential unless I start having issues with it also. Once the clutch fails it will get replaced with an Exedy Stage 1 kit and the flywheel will most likely get replaced with a Fidanza or something like that. At this point in time I'm not too worried, as the clutch is still very tight and works perfectly. Also, there's no reason to change from the original slave or master cylinder out either unless I start having issues with them.

Basically in the engine bay I removed all the grounds I could find and cleaned them up and re-installed them with dielectric grease. Also, I replaced all the major ground and power wires with larger welder's cable. The only one I didn't replace was the alternator wire, reason being is because I didn't want to dig it out of the stock wiring harness. Other than not nothing major really here to do. I won't be doing a wire tuck as this car is a daily driver and I don't want to hide any wires from myself if I need to diagnose an electrical problem. Can't really think of anything that really needs done with the wiring system in the car.

Kind of a stupid thing on the wiper/washer system, but I figured it was worth mentioning. The fit nozzle upgrade is worth it, and I figured I should just change the washer lines since they were getting old anyways.

For the winter I rock the stock steelies painted white with a set of Blizzaks on them and use the stock steelie lug nuts. Nothing special, just looks nice enough to get through winter. Summertime consists of the Drag DR-16's with Muteki lug nuts. Alignment changes depending on what season it is. Summer sees the alignment listed, winter being closer to the stock alignment specs. The aftermarket arms were installed to make suspension adjustments easier as well as replacing worn bushings.

 

 

That will bring everyone up to speed where I'm currently at.

Right now I'm ***** deep in a brake upgrade as well as re-doing the rest of the body. Brake upgrade consists of Integra GSR 10.3" fronts and EP3 10.2" rears. I'm currently getting all the parts together and prepping them for the brakes. I'll make sure to put some pictures up tomorrow. I'll be painting the trailing arms and knuckles flat black and painting the calipers gold most likely. Thinking of going with R1 Concepts premium rotors and R1 Concepts Ceramic pads. Russell stainless brake lines are on the way as well as a set of OEM hubs/bearings for the rear and OEM rear trailing arm bushings. Hopefully within the next few days I'll be able to start assembling everything to put it onto the car.

Wish me luck!

 

well......it looks to be a good dd. all of the colors in the bay are aweful thought. and why the piller pod on a stock y7? red oil pan? i dont get it. but as long as it runs good for a dd, i guess its ok....

 

The reason there's so many colors is because that's the only color a lot of those parts came in. I wouldn't have any blue in the engine bay if it weren't for the Gates and NGK parts. Those wires only come in blue and the hoses and belts only come in blue also. The Optima Yellow Top is obviously always going to be yellow. I guess I could have done all blue with the paint and the hoses and such but I think the red looks much better. Not sure why a red oil pan is so weird either. I guess you're just used to seeing the stock black one.

Pillar pod houses an oil pressure, voltmeter, and vacuum gauge. I work as an automotive technician and use them basically as diagnostic monitors. The oil pressure is basically a reminder to me of the health of the engine. Voltmeter is so that I can leave the radio on and keep an eye on the charging system. Vac/Boost gauge is mostly for gas mileage as this point so I can see throttle input. Later on the car will be turbo'd, so I went with both for that reason.

As far as how good the car runs, it's perfect. Best MPG I've gotten was 42, and it usually averages 35 between city and highway.