well i got a 1996 honaa accord 2.2 vtec i put two holes in valves, so i bought a peformance head, got my block honed new pistons rings bearings, new oil pump water pump all new seals and o rings for the whole motor, distributor rotor wires plugs fuel filter air filter got all the intake valve cover throttle and other parts hot dipped, all new gaskets got new timing belt new balance shafts belt and the two accessory belts, with new tension bearing and springs, got a full jdm race exhaust i had to move my o2 sensors make them fit in it no biggie, well the timing is set up perfect for the engine and distributor, this is my 5th rebuild on a car but the first on a honda, so im pretty good with working on cars but now when i try to start it the check engine light comes on and i hear a clicking noise from a relay from behind my dash somewhere, but what i dont get is when i hook my scanner to the car the check engine light goes off and the clicking stops, then i can start my car and it has no codes, and now after it starts the battery light comes on with the abs light, and that never happened before so i checked the battery out and the alt is not charging the batt, so im going to get a new one now, also when i was putting it all back together the ring terminal for the alt touched the block and sparked, so i dont know if something stupid got fried like icm or ecu, it got me how as soon as the scanner gets hooked up all is good and while its running, if i unhook the scanner the car shuts off so when i turn the key in the on position w/o scanner check engine light with clicking and the fuel pump does not go on, but when i hook it up i hear the fuel pump for 2seconds the engine light goes out the click stops then i can start it, what can it be or did i miss something ok thanks...

 

Usually when the car won't start after a rebuild, is due to a ground not connected or tightened. Check all ground wires first.

BTW: Using sentences with periods, spacing, etc. would help everyone trying to read your post to help you. Otherwise, it gets tough understanding what was written. Example:

usually when the car wont start after a rebuild is due to a ground not connected or tightened check all ground wire first btw using sentences with periods spacing etc. would help everyone trying to read your post to help you otherwise it gets tough understanding what was written.

 

ok thanks ill check them all over, sorry about the grammar i wrote it fast.

 

Your symptoms does sound like a ground wire to me though.

 

Check the ground on the intake manifold. That was my problem after my swap.

 

i dont see any ground on the intake i just got done pulling the motor out and i cant find what i missed, well i got a new alt to put on after i get everything else back in, and why would plugging in the scanner fix a ground problem? ill try to clean all the grounds sand where they go and make new ends, every ground i found i tested with my meter and i could touch just about any piece of metal on the car or motor and get a good ground, i must of read the service manual 4 times testing so much stuff its making me crazy because its something so basic im sure, since it ran fine before all this, but thanks for the input...

 

 

i had to take the head off to find it,i had to do it anyway since my head gasket was leaking oil, so i got a new one but had to torque the head bolt to 100 footpounds instead of 73,back to my first problem it was the ground that comes off the injector harness somehow it folded back behind the steering rack, so the car is all back together running good except this code it put up P1361 TDC sensor intermittent interruption, i dont know what cause this to happen now, also thanks blake22 you did good since that was exactly my problem , i owe you one ...

 

Careful, don't warp the head.

 

i had to make them tighter, i dont know if its because my compression is way up or what, the first time i tightened them to factory specs and when i started it up oil would leak out the front and right rear corner, so i got a new fel-pro head gasket and threw that on and i made the head bolts tighter, and now no oil leak, both the head and block was resurfaced and i checked them both for wrap before i put the second head gasket on in two days but both were under factory limits, so i dont know why it leaked the first time but not a drip now, the only the only problem i got is that P1361 code for the TDC sensor intermittent interruption , i was looking on the net and found a bypass for it im not sure if i want to do that or just get a new sensor, also it did not ever have that code before the rebuild. i dont know what caused it to be mad all of a sudden...

 

However, this could be the reason why my 99 Accord does not start too. I just remembered that I might have missed connecting one of the ground wires. The one on the left side of the manifold ... !!!!

 

Hi when your car did not start, was it responding when turning the key to start or not responding at all (like if no power is there)?

 

when it did not start when i turned the key nothing happened the check engine light was on and i could hear a click sound and the whole car would just shut off but when i plug in the scanner it would start like there was no problem, and if i would pull the scanner out while running shut right off, so i took it all apart to find the missing ground now it starts right up

 

is there a work around for the egr,to make it think tht its working right,since now it puts up code p1491 egr valve lift insufficient, i know it works right i tested it before so its from getting rid of my catalytic converter, i dont know why anyone would want one, anyway if anybody cares to fix my code P1361 TDC sensor intermittent interruption, i just reran the wires with 18/4 shielded and that fixed the problem alot better then buying a sensor, well let me know please