im putting in a h22a in my 98 and i have read some stuff im using my obd2 harness just moved the crank position sensor to the obd1 dizzy used a jumper for the ecu...no im gunna swap the obd1 injectors and use a resistor box...is there anything else i need to change or swap...im thinking i should be good with that set up. And where would i wire up a resistor box on a obd2 wiring harness?

 

There is an 8 pin junction connector C112 below the rear of the throttle body. Thats where Ive done my conversions. All 5th gens have this except SH models. It has 12v switched wire, 1 wire that goes to the IAC valve, and 4 wires that go to each injector. They are all yellow/black wires so make sure you dont wire the resistor to the IAC. You can make a neat subharness. You're also going from an external coil to an internal coil. You need to rewire that as well.

 

do i have to go internal? or can i still run external

 

the dizzy im using has a external...so your saying i have to wire a internal and get another dizzy?

 

Yeah. Just rewire the OBD1 dizzy. MSD makes a conversion kit for this. Or get your hands on a USDM OBD1 dizzy. Either way will work.

 

well my buddy had this motor in his 96 obd2 and he still ran a external....thats why i keep wondering

 

The 96 H22 is OBD2. It has the crank sensor on the oil pump. A 96 dizzy wont work for you. A 95 one will!

 

ya but he did a h22a obd1 motor...the only difference was he used a obd1 harness but im using the same dizzy as he had still running external

 

ok so i wired everything together...but now im dont get any fuel through the injectors does anyone have a actual wire diagram for the 5th gen to wire the resistor box in so far everything i have found is a 8 plug and mine is a six wire not 8 so im kinda confused....i know which one is the 12v but unsure how to wire everything together im sure im having a stupid moment but i need help figuring this out.....please help

 

Youve got the right one! Im sorry I didnt mention. It is an 8-pin connector with 6 wires, 2 cavities are empty. Good luck troubleshooting. Sounds like you may have problems with the crank sensor wiring.

 

well i went through made sure that all the wires are in the right spot for the dizzy but i found a diagram is this right for what i need to do?
and if that is correct then i think i wired them wrong because i wired the for black wires to the end plug not straight to the injectors

 

ok now i rewired and its throwing flames with a intake pop so i guess ill check timing really fast and see whats up....shoot me any other ideas

 

Are your spark plug wires crossed?

 

no they are wired 1342

 

ok, double checked timing and it's dead on. everything is all wired up right, but when i go to turn it over, it's cranking and still shooting flames out of the header. but if i continuously crank it, the flames go away, then come back and it kind of fires and goes through a full fire rotation but then back to the same thing..tried ether in case something was wrong with fuel and no such luck. checked the plugs and i'm getting fuel, and since i'm getting flames, i figure i'm getting spark. it's almost like i don't have enough back pressure, but i've started these engines before with no exhaust manifold and they've fired right up..i'm at a loss for ideas right now..

 

Me too. If I get a revelation, Ill PM you.

 

alright thanks

 

You know that you are really supposed to wire the resistor box up to the Yel/Blk wire circuit, did you do this?

You could have wired injectors to be always open?

Only time I have ever had flames is when plugs were in wrong firing order

 

ya i wired them all yel/blk but i think where i went wrong was i didnt figure out which plug went to which yel/blk i just plug them all into the black wires not thinking it would matter...and if so how would i figure that out....
and all the plugs and wires are in the right spots

 

They cant be open all the time unless you grounded the induvidual blue, red, brown, or yellow wire at each injector. It does matter which yellow/black wires you routed to the resistor. Because only 1 yellow/black wire is hot with the key on. This is routed on the input side of the resistor and you must jump hot to the IAC. The other 4 go to each output side of the resistor injector. Sounds like you may have wired this incorrectly. You need a volt/ohm meter to check the signals at the yellow/black wires.

 

so i need to run 4 wires to each injector that connect to the black wires?

 

the first picture i just used a 4 pin plug to wire them to the injectors to the box and just connected the 12v wire to the 12v on the 8 plug

The second picture I wired them one at a time then tried putting them all together is that right? or does it need to be each wire by its self

The third picture thats the 4 injector wires, iac and the 12v in the 8 plug now is this where im messing up or do i just need to figure out from the dead plug which injector is which? and does it matter as far as the black wires go which injector goes to which?

hope this helps out in trying to find my problem

 

PM'd