2000 honda accord 98k f23a1(4cyl) engine 5spd. Vehicle was assembled in Mexico. I have an identical second vehicle where I can verify if a solenoid, valve or sensor is functioning correctly. Vehicle starting acting up after a gas fill up. I have replaced most known problem components (dizzy,plugs,wires,icm,coil,cap,rotor,o2 sensors,cat,egr,fuel in tank,timing belts,injectors,map sensor,valve adjustment) except the ECM all within the month. Compression (210,210,210,215), fuel pressure 45-55, timing 12btc, checked pressure reg and vtec switch. cleaned out intake manifold, plenum and throttle body. Vehicle sounds like it is missing at idle, even though it starts up with no problem, and it runs with less pickup than it had. Mil light can go out or stop blinking when the accelerator is depressed and gradually pressed to allow the fuel air ratio change. Vehicle uses much more gas. Cyl #3 is the last one to show up and has the least amount of carbon build up. Cyl #4 is always first to pop up. Finally, 1399 0300 0304 0301 0302 0303 would be the end product if the vehicle is driven long enough with the misfire in that order. Can the ECM be tuned or replaced to fix this problem?

 

update to previous post. Double checked compression, timing and balancer belts. Did cylinder leak down with no results. replaced AT sensor. Is it possible the computer is screwy? Both OBD II and Honda PGM tester won't finish its evaluation. Stuck on Cat(replaced), EGR(replaced), OS(replaced both primary and sec) and Evap Sys.(Vacuum good).

 

How long after the fuel fill-up did the symptom begin? And, what is the service history leading up to this, preferably within the last year or so.

 

Problem Solved! After replacing the spark plug wires originally I tested the resistance according to specs. The wires were suppose to be less than 25k ohms. The old ones were around 8k ohms. These were 0 ohms. However, I never took into account that the insulation might be defective, and that one of the wires were grounding out. Consequently, my short wire (#4 plug) was defective. When I added an additional component to the wire (an inline spark signal tester) the engine was back to normal. It's a good thing no one pays me to diagnose their vehicle, for it would cost them a fortune. Thanks for the reply.