stock b16a 1/4 mile theory...thought this would be fun
wanted to start a thread about building a car strictly for the track. completely stock b16a motor. how fast could you get the car and what would you do to it. im talking down to the nitty gritty of grinding off dohc of the valve cover for weight reduction...lol. i was thinking dropping this motor in a crx. changing the gearing in the transmission and the final drive. gutting the car absolutley everything you will not need. removing sound deadner tar. going through the wiring harness and removing every wire you wont need. removing a headlight and running a velocity stack. running 2.5 exhaust maybe out the side of the car. maybe use 15" konig heliums, replacing the glass with lexan. even going as far as taking a hole saw and randomly putting holes in the floor pan for weight reduction. ecu tune...
im not doing this....i just thought it would be fun to hear some ideas on making a fast car with a 100% bone stock b16a and seeing what ppl thought they might get the car to run in the 1/4 mile
im not doing this....i just thought it would be fun to hear some ideas on making a fast car with a 100% bone stock b16a and seeing what ppl thought they might get the car to run in the 1/4 mile
yeah starting with a crx hx, extreme weight reduction might drop 200 pounds(aside from replacing essential parts with lighter weight parts). so you are looking at about a 1500lb car plus driver weight. id say also that the weight reduction should be limited to the back axle, otherwise managing wheel spin might make full throttle impossible. the lsd is going to add a few pounds but it will be in the right place too(at the front and low), but lower gearing might negate itself(better acceleration, but more wheel spin)
the biggest hurdle to overcome is having a driver that will launch it right, and manage wheel spin efficiently. all things being perfect id say low 13s would be possible. ive got a calculator that says with 160hp and 1675(1500ish pound car plus 175lbs of driver) gives a 1/4 time of 13.39@100.5.
now if you really want to get serious with it.......12s MIGHT be possible. but for that im talking about testing wheel bearings, alternators, water pumps and finding ones that have the least friction. also there are some things you can do to the engine which would keep it technically stock but might reduce frictional losses. so things like line-honing the mains, checking out the cylinder bores to make sure they are exactly perpendicular to the mains, match-fitting bearings, using the low end of clearance specs on ring gaps, line-honing cam bores, etc might get just a lil more power to the ground
so lets say you pick up "10hp" from reducing various frictional losses around the car, according to my calculator, that drops your ET from 13.39@100.5 down to 13.13@102.6
the biggest hurdle to overcome is having a driver that will launch it right, and manage wheel spin efficiently. all things being perfect id say low 13s would be possible. ive got a calculator that says with 160hp and 1675(1500ish pound car plus 175lbs of driver) gives a 1/4 time of 13.39@100.5.
now if you really want to get serious with it.......12s MIGHT be possible. but for that im talking about testing wheel bearings, alternators, water pumps and finding ones that have the least friction. also there are some things you can do to the engine which would keep it technically stock but might reduce frictional losses. so things like line-honing the mains, checking out the cylinder bores to make sure they are exactly perpendicular to the mains, match-fitting bearings, using the low end of clearance specs on ring gaps, line-honing cam bores, etc might get just a lil more power to the ground
so lets say you pick up "10hp" from reducing various frictional losses around the car, according to my calculator, that drops your ET from 13.39@100.5 down to 13.13@102.6
Last edited by newtron63h; Sep 15, 2010 at 10:24 AM.
awsome..i think it would be so much fun to build this car. you could put launch control on it to help out, some slicks in the front and maybe some traction bars. have a drag coilover kit on it. what else could help with wheel spin? keeping the battery up front and removing the fuel tank and putting a fuel cell under the hood adding some weight?
you could even remove the alternator....if its a drag only car
or maybe even remove the front disc brakes lol..
you could even remove the alternator....if its a drag only car
or maybe even remove the front disc brakes lol..
Last edited by cehcivic15; Sep 15, 2010 at 10:40 AM.
ummmmmm removing rear calipers and lines and plugging the lines at the MC, machine the front rotors to the minimum useable thickness, and machine all of the friction surface of the rear rotors off, then balance them. skinny and lightweight wheels and tires on the rear. fab a small fuel cell and move it forward in the car.
just some ideas
just some ideas
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how about a stock h22 in a dc integra??? i know its not a b16a but im looking to see how fast i can get my dc down the track without building the motor and cutting my car up!
run a intake 2 the front bumper.js racing intake duct (jdm front) bigger header. already have light weight wheels. gut the back half interior. the tranny is already geared low, running drag radials up front, rear bumper has 2.5in. holes cut out in it.
so 187hp 158tq 2500 lbs car...what do you think that would run??
run a intake 2 the front bumper.js racing intake duct (jdm front) bigger header. already have light weight wheels. gut the back half interior. the tranny is already geared low, running drag radials up front, rear bumper has 2.5in. holes cut out in it.
so 187hp 158tq 2500 lbs car...what do you think that would run??
how about a stock h22 in a dc integra??? i know its not a b16a but im looking to see how fast i can get my dc down the track without building the motor and cutting my car up!
run a intake 2 the front bumper.js racing intake duct (jdm front) bigger header. already have light weight wheels. gut the back half interior. the tranny is already geared low, running drag radials up front, rear bumper has 2.5in. holes cut out in it.
so 187hp 158tq 2500 lbs car...what do you think that would run??
run a intake 2 the front bumper.js racing intake duct (jdm front) bigger header. already have light weight wheels. gut the back half interior. the tranny is already geared low, running drag radials up front, rear bumper has 2.5in. holes cut out in it.
so 187hp 158tq 2500 lbs car...what do you think that would run??
plastic valve cover and intake manifold like on the new hondas.
would be nice if we could have that for b series.
high output alternator.
you could possibly build a much better motor with using higher grade metals so you can cut down on the thickness. like aircraft quality.
but that is stupid expensive...
these are production cars so thay are made to be a compromise between quality and price.
if would probably cost you alot more to get stock B16 to type-r numbers than just buying a type-r motor to start off...
would be nice if we could have that for b series.
high output alternator.
you could possibly build a much better motor with using higher grade metals so you can cut down on the thickness. like aircraft quality.
but that is stupid expensive...
these are production cars so thay are made to be a compromise between quality and price.
if would probably cost you alot more to get stock B16 to type-r numbers than just buying a type-r motor to start off...
There was a guy here running 12.8s with a stock internal B16, some kind of ecu with a raised rev limit, DC race header, 24" slicks, a welded diff, and a clutch. That was in a eg, with a driver seat, gauges, and full glass.
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