I have a 2005, CR-V, LX that i am trying to replace the rear pads on. I have replaced the pads on the drivers side rear.

I have been working on the passengers side rear....just un-seized the guide pins , replaced boots , re-lubricated and have them working properly.

My problem now, is that I can not get the caliper piston to fully compress. I can get both of the new pads in...but then they are touching with no room to slip the rotor between them.

I have pumped the brakes a few times (with engine off) to see if the piston extends...which it does fully.

I have tried a C-clamp to compress the piston but it stops short by about a quarter inch. I have made sure that the E-brake is disengaged and the the reservoir cap is off in the engine compartment.

I read in another thread that sometimes turning the piston was necessary to fully compress. But the pistons in my CRV do not have slots or a cross pattern, they are bored out or hallow for description presupposes (inner pad has three prongs that seat inside cylinder).

Am I looking at a new caliper here, or is it possible rust has built up on the piston under the boot, as it has been extended for so long? - 5 years seems premature for replacement?

 

Strange they are not screw in type. If you live in a northern state (i.e. snow) it is very possible there is some rust built up not allowing the piston back in.

I would try more force on the C-clamp, and also make 100% sure you have the right pads on there. You can always pop out the piston pretty easily (only do this if you know how to safely do it) and see if there is anything wrong. You'll just need to bleed it a bit more to get all the air out after putting it back in.

 

Reman calipers aren't too expensive, and rebuild kits much less so. If you can't get the piston to retract completely with a C-clamp, just replace or rebuild it. Remember to replace the crush washers on the banjo fitting and to bleed the line when finished.

I've been doing a lot of rear calipers on '02-04 CR-Vs; haven't had a bad one on an '05 yet but they'll be showing up soon enough. Parts wear out, sometimes sooner than you'd hope. It happens.

The calipers with screw-in pistons have an integrated parking brake mechanism.

Models with rear disc brakes that have a separate drum parking brake inside the rotor hat (e.g. '02+ CR-Vs, '91-95 Legends, all TLs, all Elements, '95-98 and '02+ Odysseys, etc.), have rear calipers with standard push-in pistons.

 

Thanks guys....I will pull the boot back and check for rust. I am guessing that this is the problem. When ever I work on brakes I try like hell not to disturb any of the pistons or lines so as not to introduce air into the system. I Live in Vermont....so yes harsh snow, dirt and salt to contend with......rust appears quickly on the under workings of VT cars....so bleeder screws and any bolted connection can turn into a nightmare...especially if it breaks off. I don't have a garage nor torches and the such.....so you can understand my hesitation to just dive in - "oh, I will just bleed that afterward"

Thanks again.

 

This is an old post but it came up for me when I had an issue with my 2006 Honda CRV rear break calipers not compressing all the way in, preventing me from installing new pads. The solution is not listed here and it is a simple fix. Simply loosten the bleed screw which is on the caliper housing that is connected to the break line. Turn it about a half a turn to allow the excess break fluid to run out. No too loose you don't want it freely flowing out. You are essentially bleeding the breaks. Then try again to compress it with a C Clamp. As you compress the caliper piston, break fluid will run out. The piston will go in very easily. Once it is fully seated, tighten the bleed screw back up to avoid air getting into the line, then put your break pads on. Be sure to test your breaks and make sure no break fluid is leaking before putting your tire back on. It was so easy. There is no rust or gunk that will stop a C Clamp pushing the caliper all the way back in. There is way to much play between the caliper housing and the caliper piston for that, plus the break fluid itself is a lubricant. So if you find yourself cranking with all your might on a caliper pistion, and it doesn't go all the way in, bleed screw.