im about to take it in for my 3rd alignment.... found a shop that will dail it in to whatever spec i give them.

so whats the idea daily driver alignment camber/toe spec for front and rear for a 98 integra

this is my current alignment spec. this alignment feels like my car wants to slide out around turns

 

camber is non adjustable, so it is what it is. toe, run the front .03 out and the rear .05 in. somewhere in there anyway. the front will always behave better with some type of toe out and stability is increased with rear toe in. the toe out up front has to be minor though or you will waste the inside edge of the tires.

judging by your sheet you wasted money on a camber kit didn't you?

since you have one you can use it to search for balance in handling. by that i mean you will probably have more camber up front than out back. maybe -1deg up front and -.5 out back.

firestone has a lifetime alignment for $150, this means you can get your car done monthly if you want as long as you own it

on your print out there is too much toe in out back and you never toe in a front. zero is as close to in as you ever go in the front and running a zero front will give up some turn in and slightly slow you down compared to going out a touch.

 

Firestone over here are a bunch of ***s, i have a lifetime alignment and after i got my KW installed they were trying to tell me how my car is to low to align and all this bullshit. So i spoke with the master tech there and told him you can fix facking toe so set that **** to zero, and he did. ****ing sales person inside trying to tell me what i can and cant do to my car, fack those people. Just be careful is you get a lifetime and make sure they will do whatever they ask you to and don't give you a hard time about it.

 

i didnt waste any money on camber kit. i needed it bad since one side had 1.1 camber then the other...


also only paid $50 for skunk2 front camber kit. the car came with rear camber kit

chart below is when i bought the car with no front camber kit...


we dont have any firestone near me. nearest one is like 1.5-2hrs away

 

why was your car off a full degree? is your ride height set weird? i would be checking frame locations to the ground. frame damage and or ride height set wrong are the only two things i can think of that cause things like that.

 

If you are gonna set-up for a DD with a little fun...
Front aim for -1 to -1.5 degree of camber with very little toe out about 1/16" per side
Rear aim for -0.5 to -1 degree of camber and no toe

I Auto X my car and do my own set-up... I run
Front -2 to -1.5 degree with 1/8" total toe out
Rear -1.5 degrees with zero toe.

The crazier you go with camber the inside part of the tire will go faster, same with toe.

This might help you too...
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4

 

If you car is nearly 1.5 degrees off side by side, you need to be looking into bent parts, rather then buying a camber kit, which is only a band aid.

Ideally, get your toe into oe spec or close to 0. I wouldnt worry about what you have your camber set at now, it's noithing and you shouldnt have any problems with inner wear. But something is deffently wrong with your front right suspension.

 

I would run more negative camber in the front than that. I would have them dial it in to -1.2 in the front with 0 toe.

Have you taken to the same shop for all the alignments? It seems weird that the camber is way more negative on the right side than the left on both the front and rear. Maybe the shops equipment is faulty. (rack not level)

 

agree for autocross but toe in is a great stability promoter on the street. in autocross it's all about rotation so zero out back is a great idea. on the street it makes high speed stability suffer.

i've tried about every setting you can think of and HATE the front at zero, always have to dial in toe out. 1/8" total drives great but might wear a bit fast for some folks. 1/16th total is still do able and doesn't fry the inside edge. the rear is Dependant on what i'm doing. zero would be good for autocross but it slows me down in aggressive street or lap day driving. i spend more time paying attention to the rear than i should be. with a little toe in the stability goes up a LOT. i'd rather go after rotation with spring rates or sway bars. that way i can have the best of both worlds

 

if the suspension is bent it would throw off the caster in most case. the camber on the camber kit is pretty much in the same spot as the other side. before i went in for the 2nd alignment i had two new front tires changed. it had some really bad radial tire pull.

i also think the owner before i had this car(bought htis car a month ago) . he rotated the tires from front to back with bad radial tire pull. so im thinking thats why i feel the car sliding out in corners is maybe cause the rear tires are bad?

 

When you guys say 1/16th or 1/8th toe, how many degrees are you referring to?

1/16th = .0625º
1/8th = .125º

Is this correct?

 

yes,

just keep in mind when we say per side or total. 1/8" total is .06-.07 per side. in the case of front toe out, this isn't bad, probably the most i would go on the street due to wear. it drives great. you could tone that down to .03-.04 per side out and keep 90% of the turn in with a decrease in inside wear.

 

good info here, I was just about to ask what is a good DD setup. My last car had even the camber set to 0° because the previous owner bought camber kits and the shop that installed them put everything to 0°. Why? IDK but it doesn't matter now because it ended up into a pole. Now I have another car to mess around with. Just a slight drop 1.75" front and 1.5" rear for now. I do have Skunk2 front and rear camber kits. I know I don't need them but it does allow for more adjustment and they are all new poly bushings. So far I gathered 0° toe up front and maybe 1° camber? 0.05° or less toe in for the rear? Then 0.5° camber in the rear? It's a DD for a while, no tracking with the suspension on it maybe just some corner carving on the back roads. I do NOT want the rear to step out and slide on the street. Been there, hate that. Great for the track with the rear rotation, dangerous for street driving.

 

Thanks for the input

 

...too much rear neg camber. Remember, that set up gains neg camber in roll. I believe that rear toe in is vital in nearly every setup; a little rear toe in help the rear tires build slip angles in sync with the front...remember, the rear tires are always following the front.

So a little less rear neg camber and a hair rear toe in will keep the back end feeling safe and secure as a DD. Use the factory settings, they're actually made for a DD and they work pretty well for many spirited set ups as well.