Ok so I've got the accord running and now it time to get the bugs worked out.
Background:
F22B2 w/ Auto trans in a 95 Accord

Swapped head for another one from a F22B2. (original head was trash, cam broke in half)
New timing belts
New water pump
New PCV valve
New dizzy cap and rotor
Steam cleaned intake manifold
New head gasket, exhaust gasket, intake manifold gasket
New cam seal
New NGK factory replacement spark plugs
174,000 miles
Completely stock
Car has been sitting at least 10 months
Onto the issue:

Engine sounds like it is running good, but it shakes a lot, and has a putter/miss sound from the exhaust. Hesitant when given throttle, putters when given throttle, but does not miss, shaking issue somewhat clears up..
After giving throttle and letting completely out, the car returns to a super low idle speed, and sometimes will kill the engine.. Does not smoke, doesn't smell bad.. I can completely retard and advance the timing, and it doesn't seem to change anything.

I've added new gas to the tank, I am pretty sure the timing belts are set correctly, distributor is set at the factory setting via looking at the bolt imprints.(lol)

I'm in the process of changing the fuel filter out, but I have discovered that I am not getting a lot of spark through the #1 plug wire. I have checked the plug wires and the are all in spec, non over 25k ohms.

I pulled the #1 plug wire out, and nothing changes, but if I pull any of the other plug wires loose, the car starts running horrible and almost dies.. I also checked the spark using the screwdriver method and the #1 spark plug wire arched a little, but the others shocked the hell out of me, thus making me think this is the reason I am running so rough.. But I have changed the rotor and cap, so whats next?

Another thing- all of the spark plugs are starting to get a little soot on them, while the #1 plug is still clean..

Thanks for the help.

 

you may have answered your own question. If you pull a plug wire and the engine dies on cyl 2,3,4 but not on cyl,1 your problem is that cyl,1 did you check to make sure the injector on cyl,1 is firing correctly? I rebuilt my f22b1 completely top to bottom had a misfire and found the injector was sticking and not firing correctly. switch the injector from another cyl, and see if the problem follows that one injector example: move injector from cyl,1 and put it on cyl,2 does cyl,2 mis fire now? if so you found the problem!

 

Well the spark is low on the #1 cylinder though.. I can pull the wire, put it to a ground and it has a small arch, but If I pull any of the other plug wires, the will shock the **** out of me if I even get close to a ground.

 

Bad cap or plug wire... Is it possible the inner 'cover' under the cap has moved around when you installed the cap? Dunno what it does, but maybe it could allow the spark to bleed off internally rather than take that long [longest ....] trip down that plug wire.
I think I'd swap 2 & 1 [if possible] and see if the trouble followed... or borrow a plug wire from another vehicle.
tom

 

Hey thanks for the help, I got it running today.

It ended up being a bad injector, I guess I just didn't have the #1 wire grounded good, cause I got a jolt from it today.. After I got spark through a plug, I pulled the rail off, and sure enough the #1 injector was bone dry. Changed it with another one from the extra and it runs like brand new now.

Oh and that shield you are talking about is "splash shield".. I'm almost 100% sure is for if the dizzy starts leaking the spark won't start a fire from the oil.

 

it sounded like a fuel delivery issue, glad u got it fixed, now shut up and DRIVE!!! hehe!!!