Crosspost from s2ki incase a few of you guys dont make it over there very often.......



HUGE thanks to KC2001AP1 for letting me borrow these things to test thumbup:

Here's the graph.. both setups fully tuned on my car on the same day.




RED is STAGE 2
BLUE is STAGE 3

conclusion.. stage2 FTW.

If you remember back to my stage 3 vs stock test, stage3 and stock were dead even till after 8000 rpms. here's that graph.



Red is STAGE 3
Blue is stock cams
Green is a stock motor.


The difference in stage 3 numbers from last time to this time include about a month and a 1/2, cooler temps outside and a different rear end. Both stock but different (i trashed my first one)

For future reference my setup is as follows

Mahle 12.5:1 pistons
Carillio ap1 rods
ap2 crank
RLZ valve job, stock ports
4 inch dia cold air intake
Ultimate racing 3 inch dual exhaust
70mm test pipe
the "good" ebay header
AEM EMS
RDX 440cc injectors

Just to add a few observations.

the stage2's are WAY better to drive than the 3's. They idle better, no hunting w/the a/c on, I didnt stall the car at all (6puck spec clutch is kind of a bitch to drive). Overall it was way smoother and the valve train was a little quieter.

The throttle response was really good. The stage3's are kind of "mushy", the 2's were sharp and very linear.

I'm sad i have to give the 2's back now.. haha

 

so with that build u only made 230whp?

 

its not much more than a stock f22c, just a bit more compression.

most stock s2000's dont hit 200 on this dyno. the green line in my 2nd dyno was from my stock motor with a bunch of boltons.

its making 30 more hp from around 4000 to 8000, its just not carrying up top like i want.

 

30 midrange is pretty sweet but yea lacking up top for sure

 

yeah, i'm about 90% sure the missing power up top is in the throttle body and intake manifold.. its seeing over 1psi of vacuum in the intake manifold past 8000 rpms. Making the motor work to get the air in. these motors only have a 64mm throttle body

 

wow ive foudn this thread very useful. thanks for sharing!

 

you gonna have your oem TB bored out or are you going with an aftermarket one???

 

I'm going straight to a custom manifold.. the stock **** maxes out around 69mm before you have to start welding stuff up.

i want to test a q45 83mm tb and 75mm

 

great info

 

... i added a rough price list...

You spent $5500+, excluding labor costs... and got 30-40 whp?
Let's say you made 40whp over stock... that's $137.50/hp.

Eek. A turbo kit may have been a better idea, far more logical from a performance to dollar aspect. Least you could have netted an increase of 200whp, or $27.50/hp.


Thank you though, cause your post is making me feel pretty damn good about my exhaust now too. It made a dynoed 5whp and cost me $25. that's $5/hp.

 

you are a little off there..

Mahle 12.5:1 pistons Retail is $780
Carillio ap1 rods Paid 780 shipped from real street performance
ap2 crank $200
RLZ valve job, stock ports Brad loves me
4 inch dia cold air intake $20 bux
Ultimate racing 3 inch dual exhaust Daryll loves me also.. but i guess we can say retail.. 1000
70mm test pipe used $60bux
the "good" ebay header $ 80
AEM EMS Left over my old old old civic.. its been in about 5 different cars of mine, i dotn really count it
RDX 440cc injectors $35 each from acura, even with the clips i only have 190 in em
I forgot the supertech springs and retainers.. got em used for 200

I do all my own work

I have about $2200 in it not counting the exhaust.

not bad when you consider I built the motor b/c my stock one spun a bearing and was trashed...

at the time the cheapest i could find a used motor was around $2500

 

even with the "hook-ups"... that's still over $100/hp. I do understand some of the items are luxury items and don't really help the hp figure (ie. ebay header, intake tube, exhaust)... but still...

oh well... I give ya credit for spending the money on trying it... even if it's subpar results.

 

I wouldnt call it subpart.. there are people that spend that on a header and intake..

I had to buy a motor anyway, may as well spend on getting something better.

if it was about hp/dollar i'd spray it

 

did you try your engine on the same dyno with stock cams?

are you using adjustable cam gears?

 

I did not test the stock cams on the same day. however i did a test of stock cams vs bc3 a while ago, the bc3 only made more power than stock past 8000 rpms. The graphs below 8000 were identical.

you can figure from that test that the bc2's would make more power than stock from 4500 up.

 

it doesn't matter for the same day

the important factor for the compare are

-car alignment (wheels and the car on the dyno)
-good tire pressure
-A/C off
-Clean air filter
-Throttle that really reach full opening
-Dyno correction factors humidity, temp, atmospheric pressure (you was on STD fine)

 

the temp was about 25 deg colder for this test than the first.. the car made 5hp more than the previous dyno, that was consistent for all correction factors.

corrections can account for small changes, but large changes in conditions still make runs un-comparable.

 

great info - thanks Jdogg.

Nothing wrong with keeping it NA either..

 

Good results! Can you provide me a link to the good eBay header? Na ftw! =]

 

can i see the torque figures for them all?

 

I have a set of the stage 2 BC cams BNIB never baught the car but still have the cams.

 

whats the price on the cams?