Well i do have a question and it pertains to the guys who know a good amount about the F23 crankshaft which i understand has a 97mm stroke, but when accompanied by the F23 rod in an H22 the piston sticks a bit out of the hole. But i plan to get a rod made for my pistons already (88mm customs 12.7:1 with the .708" pin). And this will be replacing an 88mm crank (F20B)

I love the thought of a lot of torque but i dont see a whole lot of 97mm crank guys out. Any experiences as far as street driving and what i could expect, based off of those experiences? 95mm crank guys are always welcomed also. I will track the car a few times, but mainly its my second car which strictly is my summer car

I will run the 88mm crank for a while to see if i like it (torque-wise) but i just got a 97mm crank from a blown headgasket Accord over here so ive been thinking a lot. Let me know

Oh yeah and this is in an H2B swap

 

Nothing wrong with 97mm........when are we gonna see the 88mm setup in action?
tell you the truth the 97mm motor will make more power everywhere with less compression.

 

As far as Mr. 88mm is concerned, well ive had some bad luck but to save a long story i ended up having to use the money that was put aside for the final necessities (including selling a header i had) to buy my books. I will come up over water again very soon but i needed the money now. The motor still sits connected to the trans, waiting for a home.

I knew it would make more power before i stuck with the 88mm but i went that way only to tinker with the unknown. But after seeing the power made with the other F/H cranks i would be a fool not to consider it. I want to do it, but im trying to gauge my interest in it, seeing as how i would have to pull the motor apart again and all.

 

if you want to be cheap you can use f23 crank and rods with k24 pistons put in backwards..

 

does the f20b crank have 55mm main journals?

I know the f23 crank is great in h22a4 blocks but I haven't heard of anyone doing this in a f20b.

If the piston sticks out of the deck with the f23 rod, a custom piston will definitely fix that and help with piston speeds as well.

Does the relocated wrist pin cut into the oil wring?

Are you using a stock rod or an aftermarket? I suggest upgrading the rod if you are already in the process of tearing the block apart, it would be lame to have a weak link in the setup...

 

f20b and f23 have 55mm mains.

I'm not sure you can get the piston short enough to run h23 rods w/o getting the pin into the oil ring.

I havent done the math, but with a typical 22mm pin, around 25.5mm compression height is the shortest you can go before you get into the oil ring. You can get a little more by using a 2mm oil ring

 

I'm going to use the same pistons i have, which were custom made to use the smaller .708" pin and i will get the rods made around these pistons.

 

Two biggest problems with f23 crank: less combinations and accessibility for matching rods & pistons; and either using wimpy stock rods with smaller rod bolts that so far have had no aftermarket support or buying the $700+ Crower rods.

You have eliminated both of these problems since you will be using custom rods and already have your pistons. The only other consideration is mean piston speed, so it depends on how high you want to rev it.

 

Well as ive seen lately, i'd rather have a bunch of usable power all throughout the range without having to pin the needle to right just to get going, plus it feels nice being able pass people up wihtout having to downshift

 

True about the FD and i had thought about that long before but then again i do drive on the highway for one and i dont want to fly through the gears faster than the S4C trans already would. A nice fat and flat torque curve sounds great

 

Definitely sounds good. Ive considered that before, but the tuner/builder told me to try driving on the current FD before swapping it out. He's all about saving money! But i would like to know from you or anyone with a shorter 4.785 (or even the 4.9) how does it drive and what do you like/dislike about it?

 

I will do the FD swap first as it costs less than getting things made and the down time that comes with it. Then afterwards i will consider doiing the changeover, with another block and head