will integra driver and passanger front seats fit in 1998 civic hatch?

 

wat year integra seats? possibly not, sell em to me cheap! one of the rear rails doesn't line up

 

swap your stock rails onto the integra seats, everything bolts right up....

 

You only need to swap the inside rail.

 

won't it be uneven then if you only swap one side? i had read that the ek rails are higher than the teggy rails.


also, to clarify:

yes they fit. 3 bolts will bolt in just fine. but if you want all four, then you will have to swap rails with the civic seats that you are pulling out. i will be doing this same thing soon.

 

I'm buying some teg seats for my 6th gen on tuesday or wednesday...I'll let you know how it goes/what I had to swap.

If you want I'll take pictures of the process.

 

inner rails only, 10 min mod per seat, done it many times!!

 

?????????

i don't know if your pic answers my question as it's blocked here at work... worried about the seat bottom being uneven

 

^^ uneven? no, why??? the rails are the same height!

 

No, all you need to do is swap the inside rail as deetz said. Everything will bolt in as if honda put the seats there.

There is a lot of people who say the seats will be uneven but it is simply not true. Chances are that person has no experience with what they are talking about.

If your going to half *** it and not switch the rails dont bother doing it. I have seen the aftermath of a roll over with only 3 seats bolts.
it wasnt pretty.

 

+1 dont half *** your seats! swap out the rails and they will fit just fine, and have all 4 bolts in the floor.

 

Another Integra seat thread. I'll pull one of my old posts and post it here so no confusions.

Okay EG/DC to EK or vice versa is fairly easy to swap. What you need to do.

1. Have an EK seat and EG/DC seat to use as reference and to work on.
2. Rachet with a 14mm, 10mm, 12mm philips screwdriver or flathead of that size.
3. Remove the seat from the car.
4. Take off the plastic coverings with screwdriver.
5. Unhook the wire that runs across both rails.
6. For outer side rail (sits next to the door) just swap the rail with the EG/DC or EK one.
7. For inner side rail (sits next to center console) you need to swap the whole bracket with the rails. Remove the bracket bolts with the 14mm and swap it over.
8. Hook the metal wire backup, align the rails, put back the plastic coverings and your good to go.

All 4 bolts will line up because you are using EK rails instead of EG/DC or the other way around. But yea, whatever you do make sure you have all 4 points mounted up. It's not safe at all with only 3 points mounted up. When you crash, the whole seating rails and brackets will twist. That will not give support to your neck and your back during the collision.

You can swap just the inner bracket and rails with the EK ones with all 4 points mounting up, but your seat will be leaning away from the center. I wish I took pics when I swapped I swapped the seats, but I no longer have them. =/

 

I have done this many many times and have yet to see any sort of lean, please post pictures of this so called lean.

 

Has anybody tried to swap an integra DA1 interior into an EK civic? I was thinking it would be cool to have leather and the DA1 has a 3 seater rear bench that I think is approximately as wide as the civic rear bench.

 

Like I said I wish I took pictures. =[

 

Would DA seats fit if you used the same rail swap process?

 

Im sure they would, anything is possible.
All though i have never seen anyone try it, for the rear seats, i doubt the will fit.
4 door bottoms and 2 door tops are needed from a dc, so maybe the same can be said for da?
Pan swaping the tops is needed if you want integra seats to lock like the civic ones do.

if you have them alread, give it a shot and post your results.

 

I'm picking up some DA fronts tommorrow...the guy said that they were mint when he got them and replaced them with del-sol seats the week after he got his DA...They're like black/dark dark grey with the lighter grey in the centers...and I'm only paying about 40 bucks...no tears no rips no burns...

I'll post the results...should have 'em in my EJ8 by this weekend if all goes well. I'll take some pics and post up...maybe do a D.I.Y. on it if there's some crazy obstacle I have to overcome. I just wanna make sure ALL 4 holes line up...don't wanna get in a wreck and have some crazy **** happen.

 

^^ I hope you know the DA seats, as nice as they are, have a different bolt pattern than DC seats!!! It will be a lot more work to mount them, but as mentioned, for sure can be done!

 

That's what I heard...it wouldn't be fun if it was easy now would it?

Just hope it's not so frustrating it's not fun anymore lol.

I've never seen anybody do it around here either so it'll be unique *at least to my area*

 

so could nt use my stock rails on teg seats ? confussed???

 

yesterday i swapped my driver's side seat in my EJ6 with a dc2 integra seat.

the post i've quoted above is the ONLY useful post in here regarding the front seat.

however, there are details missing about the outside rail by the door, which WILL need to be installed and it took me something like an hour and a half to get just the driver's side seat in. now that i know what i'm looking for it would probably take 20 minutes to remove, remount brackets/rails, and reinstall.

on the outside rail, you don't need to use the DC bracket, but you will need the sliding rail, otherwise the wire that attaches the two rails (for seat sliding function) will not work. i believe that this is the "lean" that people are referring to, because the two rails will be in different positions, thus putting the seat in a swiveled position. YOu can work around this by simply manually adjusting the rail and leaving it.. but if you want to slide the seat back and forth, you need to replace the rail.

there are two bolts on the rail. one is at the bottom and you can easily undo it. the other one is hidden by the plastic cover. once you undo the first one, you can quite easily tell where the second bolt is located; it will swivel and spin if you want it to, using the hidden bolt as an axis.

now, what you have to do is remove the plastic cover on the door-side DC seat. other than the obvious screws that you need to remove, you have to:

-remove the two adjusting *****... there are horseshoe shaped retaining clips under the *****. I slid a flathead screwdriver underneath the ***** and popped the retaining clips off the stems and the ***** come right off.
-then you yank the handle cover for the reclining function off and slide the whole side plastic cover off. then you can locate access the second bolt for the rail. remove only the rail, do the same thing for the civic seat and install the rail accordingly.

 

^ The outside rail DOES NOT need to be replaced...not being an *** but that's alot of work. I just put dc2 seats in mine this past weekend...all I did was bend the thin wire that connects the two slide pulls straight...and adjusted it to where it needed to be and they sit perfect...slide perfect...and lock perfect...no need to swap the outside rail at all. Not trying to knock just offering suggestive help so people can avoid that much work. Be careful when you bend those though and make it good the first time because if you bend and straighten too many times they will break and it's another trip to the salvage yard.

Badass tips though on removal of that rail though.I was really wondering how to do it because I'm going to pull the upholstery soon on a spare set of dc2 seats and try to dye the fabric *don't knock it i'm keeping my good set in the car and experimenting with a tan set I'm getting for next to nothing because nobody wants tan*

 

^^ weird! My last 2 cars, i needed the inner rail only. I had a 96 hatch with 98 gsr seats, and my newer car now a 2000 Si with 2000 LS seats. I have full function of the recline feature, and the move forward feature of my passenger seat too.

 

absolutely you're right, that's an option too... i just didn't want to risk screwing it up, making it a little too tight or something and having a wire that 1. wasn't straight (it will be angled still, right? ... it seems that it's just mounted at a different point on the railing... maybe i didn't examine it close enough though) and 2. may stick at some point and cause my seat to be mobile when i don't want it to. then again, this is only what i did, and i'm sure it's not that hard to bend it to make it work like you are suggesting... i'm just **** about things. and, as you described, the wire's integrity will be compromised as you will straighten and rebend.