hi there you mid - high HP guyes


Im running a 600hp@wheels / 550nm Toyota starlet (Fwd) in denmark.

i have tryied for year now too go under the 10sec , but had ALOT of tire spin in both 1st and 2nd gear..... fastest time 10,32sec 1/4mile and 6,6sec on 1/8mile (different tracks )

then we turned our attention to the camber and toe in / toe out , and made it like zero camber and zero toe in .....

took it too the track , and SNAP the cv joint broke off ....HMMMMMMM this was curious...

made two more axels , and took it again to the track , SNAP , and SNAP again second time Where in the WATER ( reving 9000rpm and let it spiin in 2nd gear )

normaly i hold it at launch 8000rpm and with retard ignition , manage too hold 25psi at startline .... and no pre launch ......


we then made two more axels and double checked that engine lays straight .....
took two CVjoints and drilled a 13mm hole inside too increce strengh by 25% ... ( all math ) ( need to say that its all oem MR2 2,0T axels , but there have roumers to hold up too 700hp )

first time at the track i also SNAP i water , second run made both pre launch i water and at startline , and this time i made it out in 1st and 2nd but when shifting to 3rd , it broke AGAIN ...... ( Also running powershifting and clutch less hmmmmmm im not really nice to that car !!!!!)

could it be that we have used one year on problem solving , and all it took was zero zero on suspention to make tracktion .... !???????? this is just with 650hp at engine , planning on running 850hp meth.

already got price on 5.9 axels from driveshaftshop .....

 

what kind of axles are those? stock or aftermarket? can you please explain more on your 13mm hole that you drilled to increase strength?

 

they are stock turbo MR2 axles and the axles with the hole and w/o the hole still snapped, so its moot.

i am intrested also on how hollowing the axle increases strength though?

 

axels are stock Mr 2 turbo axles as 92supercoupe writes ...

the deal with drilling a hole in the middle from inside the CVjoint , was some calculations on the axel , that it brakes around it`s center , and with a hole inside ( just not any hole size ) we gave it more surface , and more surface equals more strenght to a surtent point , and it`s still in teori ..... there is alot of other factors with come into play here ....
I need to add, that it was an last attemt to see if we could use the stock CV joints....

 

I totally believe this guy's math...they invented legos.

 

are you preloading or just sidestepping the clutch?

 

use to sidestepping the clutch , but the last run i made a preload and it still broke i 3rd .... the concludetion must be that we need stronger axles ....

 

the axles are stock what more can u say, ive been your boat before myself used to go to the track with 2 sets of spars & knew every 2-3 passes something was gunna break. hade 600whp at the time. my axels always broke in the same spot as yours.
so i said F it, waited like 4 months for the first 5,9s to come out & never looked back. but for some damn reason the trans kept breaking , lol power always finds the next weakest link.

the only way u can stop that is turn the power down, but i dont recommend that, defeats the whole purpose.

 

Am I reading correctly, you are launching at 8000Rpm, and 25 psi of boost? and you only preloaded it once?

 

use to preload with the old ECU ( got a nother type of launch ) but this one im using now got a lot more brutal launch ( little like ALS ) so it`s alot difficult to control the slip at start line ( running with tripple carbonetic clutch ) so just got use to trow it down , but seems like there are a new sherif in town, his called " preload "

 

absolutely. Preload isn't an option, it's a necessity. Also, are you launching at 25 psi of boost?

 

damn i just read the launch boost part, lol no wonder it is breaking so easily.

u must be hanging around those RWD starlet guys. way to much to launch.